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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-27-2015, 10:16 PM   #2641
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Originally Posted by LiL CeeZ View Post
Yea, one of the outdrives that came in my kit is machined wrong and is actually too big to fit into the diff housing or the metal gear inside the housing.
Oh....wow. I haven't seen that yet. I've had a spur gear thing too big for a bearing to properly fit. I'm pretty sure Tekno will send you out a new one although I understand that doesn't help right now.
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Old 11-27-2015, 11:31 PM   #2642
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Hey guys I brought my son a smc 4500kv sct motor just want to know what pinion do I need to Uesd on large type out door track with tight turns
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Old 11-27-2015, 11:58 PM   #2643
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Can't resist Tower's Black Friday deal for the Tekno SCT410.3. Since this is my first SC ever, would seek for advice on what other things need to buy.

Firstly, I was wondering if Proline's body for Slash able to fit the Tekno? Would love to put on one of those VW bug bodies.

Secondly, any must have upgrades? I have the EB48.3 and I know aluminum servo horns a must. Anything else? How about those lexan covers on top of the nerf bars?

Thirdly, tire choices, motor kv and recommended setting? I run in an indoor mid size clay track, when couple of days after the weekly hard packing traction might at times become low and surface become rutted. Track was technical layout with quite a few chicanes. When I look at the premounts I notice there are wheels for the SC10/Slash/Ten SCTE, which wheel would fit? As for power system, I so happened to have a Novak Havoc SC ESC unused and i need to look for a motor but i have no idea what kv i should get.

Thanks for any input

Last edited by blackshark3; 11-28-2015 at 06:06 AM.
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:27 AM   #2644
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congrats, you will love this truck.
For the body- if the body is listed as fitting the Losi SCTE, it will fit the Tekno. I know there is some crossover whether the body fits a Slash or SCTE or whatever, so its hard to know without knowing exactly what body you are looking for.
Servo horn is about it. The Air Control Guards are an option to help control the parachute effect. Some like them, some don't. I think it depends on lot on the body you have and the jumps at the track.
For the wheels- you want SCTE offset which is 0. Wheels that are listed as fitting the SCTE will fit this truck.
For motor KV- popular motors are the Tekin Pro4HD 4300KV, Pro4 4600KV, (some like the 4000KV as well), a couple have tried the SMC 4 Pole 4500KV. There a lots of others I am forgetting. 4 pole motors will have better torque which modern SCT's need.
If you are running 2S batteries, somewhere in the 4XXX range will be good. Gearing will be track and KV dependent so without knowing exactly motor you have, I would be hard pressed to tell you a gearing set up. I know I have a Pro4HD 4300 and use a 18t.
Good luck, have fun. Hope this helps.
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:53 AM   #2645
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Can someone post a pic of the their setup from the bottom showing full steering lock with the washers in? This one doesnt turn setup as a pro light with the washers in.

Matt how much diff in toe and antisquat change is this in your setup from the stock build setup?
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Old 11-28-2015, 06:56 AM   #2646
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I wouldn't go anywhere below 6500mAh on a battery and make sure you get a decent pack with lower internal resistance. Don't run the packs any longer than you would race. This class more than any other is HARD on batteries. If you run them down to lipo cut off as hard as these trucks can pull your packs aren't going to last very long. The Vant 7600 my son just got is a great pack for a good price.
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:22 AM   #2647
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
I wouldn't go anywhere below 6500mAh on a battery and make sure you get a decent pack with lower internal resistance. Don't run the packs any longer than you would race. This class more than any other is HARD on batteries. If you run them down to lipo cut off as hard as these trucks can pull your packs aren't going to last very long. The Vant 7600 my son just got is a great pack for a good price.
I wouldn't run bullet type packs in pro4 either.. use wired packs and change the ends. Packs will last a lot longer.
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Old 11-28-2015, 07:34 AM   #2648
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The Vant pack has dual bullets. Even with the dual bullets you need to keep a close eye on the fit of the bullets to make sure they aren't sloppy. Otherwise, that bullet connection can build enough heat to melt the plastic around plug and eventually unsolder the connection. Like I said, this class is crazy-hard on batteries. My son's Pro4 HD 4300 was by far the hardest on the packs too and he never really liked how it felt compared to his HW 4000 or the Viper 4500 that he is currently running.
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:15 AM   #2649
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I wouldn't run bullet type packs in pro4 either.. use wired packs and change the ends. Packs will last a lot longer.
I have been running the same SMC 7200mah bullet packs for the last 2 years in Pro4 with many different motor setups, batteries still are in great shape and have good IR. With that said, maybe I'm just lucky
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:05 PM   #2650
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66 Ford on the 410.3




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Old 11-28-2015, 03:20 PM   #2651
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Originally Posted by coombes View Post
Hey guys I brought my son a smc 4500kv sct motor just want to know what pinion do I need to Uesd on large type out door track with tight turns
Start with 16t. Consider 17t if you find yourself sitting at WoT and top speed a bunch.
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:47 PM   #2652
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66 Ford on the 410.3




That's pretty sweet.
Try to get the body a little lower for better cg perhaps😉
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Old 11-28-2015, 08:53 PM   #2653
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I have been running the same SMC 7200mah bullet packs for the last 2 years in Pro4 with many different motor setups, batteries still are in great shape and have good IR. With that said, maybe I'm just lucky
I don't think you are lucky but you're probably know how to take good care of your lipos and keep them at the right voltage after each use. 👍
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Old 11-28-2015, 09:53 PM   #2654
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That's pretty sweet.
Try to get the body a little lower for better cg perhaps😉
Yeah, it is setting a little high, but that is because the front still needs clearance trimmed to make way for the bumper supports. It can go down at least two more holes. When ever I finish one of these 66 ford bodies out for racing use, the first thing I do is remove the front bumper and set the body further back than is pre-dimpled and originally intended . This sets the body more rearward and streamlines the layout and eliminates a lot of the parachuting. It also centers the rear fenders to the tires better, but needs the front fenders trimmed out toward the front to compensate for forward wheel base loss. This body in my opinion is really under rated in the way it handles on the trucks. Not only will it self right almost every time a roll over occurs, it also makes driving the truck easier for some strange reason. I know it must be subconscious, but it just seems like you can tell what is going on with the way the body rolls and leans making it easier to make quick corrections. I realize how dumb that sounds, but if you don't believe me you need to try this shell and find out for your self.
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Old 11-29-2015, 08:56 AM   #2655
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Yeah, it is setting a little high, but that is because the front still needs clearance trimmed to make way for the bumper supports. It can go down at least two more holes. When ever I finish one of these 66 ford bodies out for racing use, the first thing I do is remove the front bumper and set the body further back than is pre-dimpled and originally intended . This sets the body more rearward and streamlines the layout and eliminates a lot of the parachuting. It also centers the rear fenders to the tires better, but needs the front fenders trimmed out toward the front to compensate for forward wheel base loss. This body in my opinion is really under rated in the way it handles on the trucks. Not only will it self right almost every time a roll over occurs, it also makes driving the truck easier for some strange reason. I know it must be subconscious, but it just seems like you can tell what is going on with the way the body rolls and leans making it easier to make quick corrections. I realize how dumb that sounds, but if you don't believe me you need to try this shell and find out for your self.
I'm curious...can you put that body on a scale?? want to see the different!!
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