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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-08-2015, 05:22 PM   #2536
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I have zero tires, zero wheels for this vehicle.. that said I plan on getting alum hexes, should I just get the 17mm m2c and 17mm hex wheels right from the go? Do they meet spec for width? No issues running them? I'd love to just go w/ 17mm
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Old 11-08-2015, 05:34 PM   #2537
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Download the manual for the eb48.3 and scroll down to bag I, that will show you what you need to know.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...structions.pdf
Wow i didn't know that i read this in previous posted but i didn't know where is the stop steering is but thanks bro.

Last edited by raved007; 11-08-2015 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:04 PM   #2538
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Wow i didn't know that i read this in previous posted but i didn't know where is the stop steering is but thanks bro.
Glad to help.
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Old 11-09-2015, 05:56 AM   #2539
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"Except"
If your going to take a crack at a person you have to have correct grammar!
It is after all the internet mayne! Spell something wrong on youtube and see what happens!
Damn you, I didn't catch that....grammar police strikes again!

You know what really burns my ass though? When you arrive at the track, and working on getting the layout down, and get to low 19's and high 18's fairly consistent, and feeling good to see if you can do better with the 2nd pack of the day. (Supposedly the fast guys in 4wd sct are running low 17's, so I wasn't that far off IMHO)

Then a smart ass tekno driver comes in, and takes your truck on the track, and by mid pack he's hitting low 17's, by the end of the pack he's hitting 16's, and hit 15 once....geesh, I might as well just throw the towel in...
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Old 11-09-2015, 06:10 AM   #2540
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Man, that's an opportunity! Watch what he was doing differently than you, pick his brain, break his trigger finger, whatever you need to do!
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:28 AM   #2541
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Man, that's an opportunity! Watch what he was doing differently than you, pick his brain, break his trigger finger, whatever you need to do!
Oh, believe me, I'm taking all the nuggets of wisdom he has given me. I just have to remember all of them in the same lap. Then work on remembering them every lap during races. haha

We spent the day working on setups/tires/ect together trying to get both trucks good. He was helping me figure out where I was losing time. I've gotten better with his help/advice/critiques. I just have to put it all together. I just can't do what he does, it's fun to see him attack the track, but I was marshaling for the most part while he was on track with my truck. I did have the opportunity to run his truck while he was on the stand with me. I'll have to do more of that. I definitely got smoother with my truck, his truck just had so much more power.

He's somewhat local, and has done this before with me. We'll have to spend more practice days just working together. *hint* *hint*, *Nudge* *Nudge*

My problem, is primarily a bad habit I'm trying to break. Over driving corners. I can't seem to remember to slow down/brake early & hug them properly. Probably help if I used the brake more.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:08 PM   #2542
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Man, that's an opportunity! Watch what he was doing differently than you, pick his brain, break his trigger finger, whatever you need to do!
I like my fingers! There isn't much of a brain left to pick, but have at it though! :P

ezlight, I definitely hope to get more opportunities for us to do this with more vehicles. Nice for the story to connect the screen name to the face too.

For the sake of other readers, most of the time came from going between the jumps faster, so letting off into the jump rather than blipping into them or staying steady into them...and from using a whip and landing downside to already be going around a corner before landing in 2 spots, so the direction change happens while more at speed, rather than having to slow down or break traction on the ground to take the next tight corners. Over jumping any of those prior jumps made the next corner FAR slower. Landing the big downside also allowed for much quicker acceleration in the middle (which is why I had to brake or let off into the face of the next jump). The moral of this advice is this...most drivers think about the racing line, but only in 2d as they're taught it via on road style driving. Consider that your race line in off road is 3d and that taking jumps different also affects the next corners (and taking corners different affect the next jumps), and you'll have a new set of variables to play with and gain speed in specific spots.

The track was pretty high traction but had a little give when on slicks. Hard pack and smooth. Quite a fun track.
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Old 11-09-2015, 07:16 PM   #2543
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I have zero tires, zero wheels for this vehicle.. that said I plan on getting alum hexes, should I just get the 17mm m2c and 17mm hex wheels right from the go? Do they meet spec for width? No issues running them? I'd love to just go w/ 17mm
The M2C 17mm hexes will keep the same original 0 offset that eBuggy wheels and the couple 17mm SC wheels have as well (I believe the DE racing are the most common). Please ask M2C before buying to make sure they work on the 410.3 stub axles, as they were originally made for the SCT410 which had thinner threads on the end of the stub axle.

Please note that most places do not allow eBuggy tires for racing SC, and your setup will change doing this as well due to slightly different diameters, changing ride heights and roll points and also how much rotating mass you have, along with the motor rpm to ground speed ratio.

Using 17mm SC rims with SC tires, everything should be perfectly fine and normal for setup and allowed anywhere.
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:19 PM   #2544
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Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
The M2C 17mm hexes will keep the same original 0 offset that eBuggy wheels and the couple 17mm SC wheels have as well (I believe the DE racing are the most common). Please ask M2C before buying to make sure they work on the 410.3 stub axles, as they were originally made for the SCT410 which had thinner threads on the end of the stub axle.

Please note that most places do not allow eBuggy tires for racing SC, and your setup will change doing this as well due to slightly different diameters, changing ride heights and roll points and also how much rotating mass you have, along with the motor rpm to ground speed ratio.

Using 17mm SC rims with SC tires, everything should be perfectly fine and normal for setup and allowed anywhere.
Just an FYI. M2C sells both the original 410 17mm conversion, as well as one made specifically for the 410.3 Conversion as the one I originally linked is for.
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Old 11-09-2015, 11:28 PM   #2545
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Just an FYI. M2C sells both the original 410 17mm conversion, as well as one made specifically for the 410.3 Conversion as the one I originally linked is for.
Awesome! Thanks for pointing that out!
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Old 11-10-2015, 07:40 PM   #2546
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Played with the built in steering stops today at the track, try'd 2-3 and 4 washers, 4 worked best for me. Really calmed down the twitchyness of the truck and simply made it easier to drive and more predictable. I'm running on a fairly large indoor with medium to high grip. For you guys that haven't try'd it do yourself a favor and give it a go, its easy to play with and makes a big difference. Going to do it on my Eb48SL as well.
Agreed completely!!
Amount of washers needed may vary depending on the size and layout of the track.
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Old 11-11-2015, 06:47 PM   #2547
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
I have zero tires, zero wheels for this vehicle.. that said I plan on getting alum hexes, should I just get the 17mm m2c and 17mm hex wheels right from the go? Do they meet spec for width? No issues running them? I'd love to just go w/ 17mm
You're limiting your wheel selection severely by going to 17mm hexs. I'd just run normal hexs, then you can try different wheels, and different colors and everything. The 12mm hexs are perfectly fine, if anything the adapters add unnecessary weight the motor has to spin.
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Old 11-11-2015, 07:11 PM   #2548
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I am looking to go to 17mm because 12mm hex wheels have a tendency to round out. I have had DE, Proline and AKA wheels round out. Yes, I make sure that axle nuts are tight. I've never had a 17mm hex wheel round out. With as much power as these trucks have, 17mm should be the standard anyway.
I'm not concerned with the weight, that won't make a difference in my performance (read-mid pack at best).
I would love to hear more opinions on 17mm conversion for those that have converted.
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Old 11-11-2015, 09:26 PM   #2549
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I am looking to go to 17mm because 12mm hex wheels have a tendency to round out. I have had DE, Proline and AKA wheels round out. Yes, I make sure that axle nuts are tight. I've never had a 17mm hex wheel round out. With as much power as these trucks have, 17mm should be the standard anyway.
I'm not concerned with the weight, that won't make a difference in my performance (read-mid pack at best).
I would love to hear more opinions on 17mm conversion for those that have converted.
The 17mm sure looks cooler IMO. Although, contrary to your experience I have never had a single wheel round out on me yet. I am perplexed as to how this happens to so many people because of my experience.
I ran a set of losi SCTE wheels through two sets of tires and beat the snot out of them from every aspect and have yet to strip them. With that being said however, I run the nuts very tight. As one guy put it "that's crazy and ridiculous even" when he was swapping out a set. haha
But at the end of the day, I have never lost a wheel either.
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Old 11-12-2015, 06:01 AM   #2550
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The issue with wheels stripping might not be a hex size or even a nut tightness issue, but a nut QUALITY issue. I recently lost a wheel on a qualifier on my SCTE, re-tightening the heck out of it, and then lost the same wheel next heat. I switched out all my wheel nuts to Durango serrated nuts. Amazing quality, decent price. Never had a problem since.
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