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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-07-2015, 08:34 AM   #2521
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SMC motor and batteries are awesome in this truck!
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Old 11-07-2015, 09:53 AM   #2522
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Just finished reading the whole thread. If I decide to get a new short course, it's definitely going to be this one. And thanks to this thread I now know what to look for and what options to get (depending on how much I'm willing to spend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Another high on the list part is the A B C D blocks (hinge pin braces). I can't remember which one I read was breaking on people mostly, D block I think, cause I just replaced them all.
Block A is the one that breaks (according to the posts here).

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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
What ever happened with that Tekno setup program for PC that was leaked a while back? Still working on it? Any ETA on when it will be ready? I'm guessing this is a Tekno specific program kind of similar to the RC Crew chief program?
IIRC it was no program, just a PDF setup guide, just like the Hudy setup book. Haven't seen it myself though.
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Old 11-07-2015, 11:44 AM   #2523
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Do you need a spare set of a-arms, hubs, spindle steering for this thing?
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Old 11-07-2015, 06:56 PM   #2524
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Originally Posted by 8ight-e View Post
Do you need a spare set of a-arms, hubs, spindle steering for this thing?
I have old 410 and 410.3 never had broken a-arms,hubs and spindle i hit many times pipe wall this car is tank. I think you need only spare drive shaft pin.
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Old 11-07-2015, 06:59 PM   #2525
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
What ever happened with that Tekno setup program for PC that was leaked a while back? Still working on it? Any ETA on when it will be ready? I'm guessing this is a Tekno specific program kind of similar to the RC Crew chief program?
I have a copy of the tekno set up still save in my computer. Someone posted here long time ago but after a few minutes was deleted glad i save the copy. hahaha
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Old 11-07-2015, 07:06 PM   #2526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
I have old 410 and 410.3 never had broken a-arms,hubs and spindle i hit many times pipe wall this car is tank. I think you need only spare drive shaft pin.
I wore out a rear wheel bearing and rear center drive shaft once on my sct410.1
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Old 11-07-2015, 07:24 PM   #2527
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Accept for this guy......he's kinda questionable...
Yeah, that justpoet guy just flames and trolls the forums all the time.
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Old 11-07-2015, 07:41 PM   #2528
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To answer a few of the prior topics.

1) SMC Motor - I had a hand in designing it. It has a lot of torque, but can run a little warm (not super hot though). However, it cools off WAY better than most other motors with just a simple heat sink, as the can is flat instead of ridged, allowing for all of the heat sink to make good contact and work the most efficiently. It was designed to be the closest to the HobbyWing 4700 in performance as could be done in a ROAR legal 540 can length. I run both motors and like them both.
2) The Tekno Setup Guide isn't yet ready for public consumption (as posted by Tekno in the past), and is still being worked on. It had gotten leaked before it was ready.
3) The PC program people may be thinking of is "RC Crew Chief", which got a section for handling the new Tekno V2 hinge pin holders added to it. I haven't used it, but most folks who do seem to like it.
4) The most important hinge pin blocks to get are the "A" and "C" blocks (front end of both the front and rear). The "A" one is for durability, and the "C" one is to drop the inserts to make setup easier, with less anti-squat and the ability to run a roller rear roll center and not force lots of anti-squat to do so.
5) Spares are generally not needed as it is a pretty durable vehicle. That being said, the most common bits to break (beyond the A block) are the same as on most vehicles. A horrible horrible crash can damage the arms, hinge pins, spindles, spindle carriers, and stub axles. In practice, this is fairly seldom, but those are still probably the most common of the broken parts. We have a nickname for the Tekno SC trucks though...Tekno Tankos. It was coined by several of the rookies that picked them up when they didn't break them, even after hitting each other full speed in opposite directions (jumping into the straight...repeatedly...on one of the layouts).
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:00 AM   #2529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
What battery and ESC you running? I have heard good things about the SMC motor. I run a HW 4700 and it to is a good motor, but I am thinking of swapping out for the SMC sometime to see for myself if it's as good as people are saying
I use a rx8 gen2 with a SMC 6500 2s pack. Their batteries are a great deal too. I just like to run what works well and for the time being, I love it.
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Old 11-08-2015, 11:07 AM   #2530
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
WOW, 140 max in a 10 minute main with a 19T on a 4500kv motor? Motor runs really cool apparently, or u need to give it some throttle! I have heard good things about that motor and the price is great, might try one but for me its hard to beat the Hobbywing Xerun 4000/4700kv in these trucks.
If I didn't run it myself, I'd doubt it too. I've only had it for a month or so and every time I've ran it the ambient temp has been 60-70 degrees. That being said, I don't know how it's going to effect it on a 90+ day but we'll see. Again, this is just something that works for me. Not saying it's any better than the HW, I'm just saying that if you're in the market for a new motor, it's worth a try.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:50 PM   #2531
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I'm also running the SMC motor & battery and RX8 Gen2 combo myself. The only problem I ran into was with the sensor wire plugged into either port on the motor. There was a very bad hesitation off idle (0 rpm). Wasn't cogging or anything, just a slow 'ramp' up. I tried everything possible on the RX8 to no avail, new sensor wires, etc. However once I disconnected the sensor wire, she came to life. So smooth, I can't tell its sensorless anyway, so I'm just leaving it.
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Old 11-08-2015, 03:55 PM   #2532
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Played with the built in steering stops today at the track, try'd 2-3 and 4 washers, 4 worked best for me. Really calmed down the twitchyness of the truck and simply made it easier to drive and more predictable. I'm running on a fairly large indoor with medium to high grip. For you guys that haven't try'd it do yourself a favor and give it a go, its easy to play with and makes a big difference. Going to do it on my Eb48SL as well.
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:05 PM   #2533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Played with the built in steering stops today at the track, try'd 2-3 and 4 washers, 4 worked best for me. Really calmed down the twitchyness of the truck and simply made it easier to drive and more predictable. I'm running on a fairly large indoor with medium to high grip. For you guys that haven't try'd it do yourself a favor and give it a go, its easy to play with and makes a big difference. Going to do it on my Eb48SL as well.
How do you installed washer 2 on top 2 under steering stop?
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:31 PM   #2534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
How do you installed washer 2 on top 2 under steering stop?
Its just a screw that goes into the spindles and the washers space the screw out to limit steering travel. Its simple if you look at it, If you need a pic I could do that. Don't forget to reset your end points after adding the shims.
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Old 11-08-2015, 04:42 PM   #2535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
How do you installed washer 2 on top 2 under steering stop?
Download the manual for the eb48.3 and scroll down to bag I, that will show you what you need to know.
http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...structions.pdf
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