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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-01-2015, 11:37 AM   #2476
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Barillms, your comments are inflammatory. Don't make a mod talk to you again. I'm getting tired of the garbage happening on this thread.
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:54 PM   #2477
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Originally Posted by Kohnen22 View Post
Hey Guys!!! I'm new the the forum but full of questions. So I've just gotten into sct racing and picked up a tekno kit 410.3 along with the rx8 esc and tekin pro 4 4600kv. But I don't know how to do proper setup for certain tracks or gearing. And my battery which is 8000mah barely makes a 5 minute main and I don't understand why. Any help is greatly appreciated.
For setup, your best bet is to decide on what kind of track you have (loose vs high bite, smooth vs rough, small vs large) and then go pick a setup sheet from Tekno's website to use as a starting point. From there, show us the setup you used and tell us what the truck is doing in a specific part of the track that you want it to do differently and we can try to give you some suggestions on what to do.

For gearing, with that motor, start with a 15 tooth pinion on a small to medium track or a 16 tooth pinion on a medium to large track. Even way improperly geared and set up though, you shouldn't be using that many mah in 5 minutes. Either something is wrong with the electronics or battery, or there is something binding up. To check for drive train binding, simply take the pinion off without changing anything else. Your truck should roll freely if you give it a small push from the bumpers. It should also move fairly freely if you push down on it and move it forward and backwards (this checks for binding that only happens when the suspension is loaded, such as on jump take off and landing). Lastly, when putting your pinion back on, also make sure the gear mesh is proper instead of super tight. It should wiggle just the smallest amount, rather than being jammed together.

When you do a run next time, and then put the battery on a charger, check to see how many mah go back into the battery and let us know. This will give an idea of if there is a problem with drawing too much power, or perhaps the battery is just weak and dropping voltage when you squeeze the trigger.
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:47 AM   #2478
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Its about time
M12s ????
Yes we do have the best tracks out here on the westcoast I have 5 tracks within 1/2- 1.5 hours of driving from my house.....but somtimes i feel my self wanting loamy/rough track to play on
Haha, don't get to excited Lowe's, I mostly bought the M12 so I could break it down and install the ZRO trigger in there for some beta testing.
I have always been a Futaba fan, and it's going to take a lot from a system to turn me away from their stuff.
But I have read and been told by some that the M12 is the best race radio on the planet. But I am honestly waiting to get my hands on the latest Futaba PX-R. Supposedly they have done some things that will make it as fast as the M12S and revised the trigger/steering mechanisms for finer resolution and better tuning or something like that.
But if in the end I feel the M12 is the best, I will keep that one.

As for the tracks, I plan to come out the CA this coming year to find out first hand. Need to see what they do so differently.
We have 600 acres of farm land here in VA and I am highly considering putting up a 150 x 220' covered track this coming year.
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Old 11-02-2015, 12:58 AM   #2479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kohnen22 View Post
Hey Guys!!! I'm new the the forum but full of questions. So I've just gotten into sct racing and picked up a tekno kit 410.3 along with the rx8 esc and tekin pro 4 4600kv. But I don't know how to do proper setup for certain tracks or gearing. And my battery which is 8000mah barely makes a 5 minute main and I don't understand why. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Your the second person I have read that is having run time problems like this. The other guy with this problem is running a 4700 in a DESC10 on a 13t pinion from the new HW XR8. I don't know a lot about the DESC10, but it sounds like its to short of a gear ratio in comparison to other SCT's.

My SCTE has the same 4700 motor using the older SCT-Pro ESC and a 9352 servo run by an external 10a adjustable CC BEC @7.2v, I am getting roughly 8 minutes give or take 30 seconds of hard running with just a protek 5300mah.
That's set with 3 boost, 0 timing 8% drag brake, with a 15t pinion against a 40t spur.

You might want to check all your connections and your R4 motor stator. Are you running connectors or are you direct wired with bullets from your ESC to the battery?
Could be a bad connector if your running one.
Sounds like your getting bad electronic resistance somewhere that is draining your system. Tekin stuff seem to be plagued with these sort of issues from what I have gathered. Definitely run hot compared to the HW stuff.
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:18 PM   #2480
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Started my .3 build tonight and having problems with the front gear box binding. It turns just as free as the rear but I can hear grinding. No matter where I put the shims..... both on gear side, both on non gear side, one on both sides, one on gear side, one on non gear side or no shims at all it stays the same. Anyone else have this problem? Is there some other way? The rear is nice and quiet and super smooth.
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Old 11-04-2015, 12:16 AM   #2481
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Started my .3 build tonight and having problems with the front gear box binding. It turns just as free as the rear but I can hear grinding. No matter where I put the shims..... both on gear side, both on non gear side, one on both sides, one on gear side, one on non gear side or no shims at all it stays the same. Anyone else have this problem? Is there some other way? The rear is nice and quiet and super smooth.
Make sure the pinion gear is seated all the way into the bearing. If there is a burr or anything that keeps it from bottoming out on the bearing you will have that problem.
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Old 11-04-2015, 05:54 AM   #2482
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Make sure the pinion gear is seated all the way into the bearing. If there is a burr or anything that keeps it from bottoming out on the bearing you will have that problem.
Just checked, bearing and pinion are good
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Old 11-04-2015, 06:29 AM   #2483
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Is everyone else's front and rear the same? Is the front a little noisier because the output angle on the bulkhead is different? I tried everything...every possible combination of shims, switched pinion gears, switched bearings, made sure the bearing and pinion were seated properly.
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:06 AM   #2484
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Is everyone else's front and rear the same? Is the front a little noisier because the output angle on the bulkhead is different? I tried everything...every possible combination of shims, switched pinion gears, switched bearings, made sure the bearing and pinion were seated properly.
Did you try taking the diff out of the rear bulkhead, and seeing if it did it in the front bulkhead too? (Front and rear diffs are identical) If the rear diff didn't make same noise, I would look at diff. Also try front in rear housing. if no noise in rear housing, then look closer at front pinion/bulkhead...Just a process of elimination, and you have everything there to diagnose what the issue is.
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Old 11-04-2015, 08:08 AM   #2485
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Did you try taking the diff out of the rear bulkhead, and seeing if it did it in the front bulkhead too? (Front and rear diffs are identical) If the rear diff didn't make same noise, I would look at diff. Also try front in rear housing. if no noise in rear housing, then look closer at front pinion/bulkhead...Just a process of elimination, and you have everything there to diagnose what the issue is.
^^^^^^ yes do this
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Old 11-04-2015, 09:53 AM   #2486
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Did you try taking the diff out of the rear bulkhead, and seeing if it did it in the front bulkhead too? (Front and rear diffs are identical) If the rear diff didn't make same noise, I would look at diff. Also try front in rear housing. if no noise in rear housing, then look closer at front pinion/bulkhead...Just a process of elimination, and you have everything there to diagnose what the issue is.
I didn't try that I will do that now. Thanks I'll let you know how I make out.
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Old 11-04-2015, 10:09 AM   #2487
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Did you try taking the diff out of the rear bulkhead, and seeing if it did it in the front bulkhead too? (Front and rear diffs are identical) If the rear diff didn't make same noise, I would look at diff. Also try front in rear housing. if no noise in rear housing, then look closer at front pinion/bulkhead...Just a process of elimination, and you have everything there to diagnose what the issue is.
Tried it still the same. I can tell you one thing, I'm getting really good installing these shims
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:00 AM   #2488
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Make sure all your diff screws are tight. You might have one sticking out just a hair.
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:16 AM   #2489
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Tried it still the same. I can tell you one thing, I'm getting really good installing these shims
Ok, So did the front diff do the same thing when trying to install it in the rear bulkhead??
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Old 11-04-2015, 11:26 AM   #2490
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Ok, So did the front diff do the same thing when trying to install it in the rear bulkhead??
Sounds like you don't have it seated completely strait.
You might wanna go ahead and tear down that diff, clean and dry off the seal and then reassemble it to try again. These are extremely close tolerance parts compared to other diffs I have built. Wouldn't take much to bind things to get a slight wobble induced into the gear rotation.
When everything is apart, I would check the outer gear thoroughly by laying it on a very flat surface, like a glass table or marble counter top to make sure it is't a manufacturer warp or defect in the trueness of the part. If all looks good, just put it back together again and go from there.

Last edited by Josh L; 11-04-2015 at 12:06 PM.
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