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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 09-04-2015, 01:48 PM   #2101
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Default follow-up to nose down solution

I've been doing more tuning on my SCT410.3 to solve the nose down issue. I previously reported that I used an unusually heavy rear spring to prove the issue has to do with the rear of the chassis slamming the jump face sending the rear of the truck up over the front. I knew the super stiff rear spring wasn't the end solution but it proved my theory. Since then I've been experimenting with oil to see if I could get enough pack to keep the rear of the truck from squatting too low on sharp edges or hard acceleration and at the same time being able to run a softer rear spring to get better traction.

I was at the LCRC Raceway for the Mugen Challenge a few weeks back where the track had 4 rather big jumps. When I first looked at the layout I thought an SC truck might not be able to clear all of these jumps. Two of the jumps were both high and long, and the other two were relatively low height but long distance. The two high jumps had steep jump faces, so they were more likely to have the rear of the truck hit the face of the jump. After the practice day I managed to get my truck to jump everything while keeping the nose up 95% of the time. I had a few nose down issues that I attributed to either a bad section of the jump faces, and something else I noticed that I will share at the end of this post.

I ended up with AE 42.5wt (538cst) front and rear with the 6x1.5 pistons. I had a green spring in the front and yellow spring in the rear. That shock package allowed the truck to jump very well, although it was just a tad loose in the rear. The rear end actually rotated extremely well through the turns, but I had to ease in to the throttle coming out of turns. Next, I want to try the 8x1.3 pistons with a little lighter oil and perhaps a pink spring. The 8x1.3 pistons have the same surface area as the 6x1.5s, but with more/smaller holes it should provide more pack at the end of its travel.

Here is the other thing I noticed while cleaning my truck after the race (see pic below). I run the DE Racing Trinidad wheels and apparently when the wheels are at full throw left or right, the cap head screws on the steering links are rubbing the inside of the front wheels. This would cause the wheels to spin much slower and possibly stop while in the air, which might be causing some of the nose down issues. I've since replaced those two cap head screws with button heads, although I've not had a chance to run the truck since.

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Old 09-04-2015, 01:59 PM   #2102
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wease..very interesting on the cap screw rubbing, I am gonna check this out, may be the answer to my #2086 post question,,Thanks
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:23 PM   #2103
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Originally Posted by Wease View Post
I've been doing more tuning on my SCT410.3 to solve the nose down issue. I previously reported that I used an unusually heavy rear spring to prove the issue has to do with the rear of the chassis slamming the jump face sending the rear of the truck up over the front. I knew the super stiff rear spring wasn't the end solution but it proved my theory. Since then I've been experimenting with oil to see if I could get enough pack to keep the rear of the truck from squatting too low on sharp edges or hard acceleration and at the same time being able to run a softer rear spring to get better traction.

I was at the LCRC Raceway for the Mugen Challenge a few weeks back where the track had 4 rather big jumps. When I first looked at the layout I thought an SC truck might not be able to clear all of these jumps. Two of the jumps were both high and long, and the other two were relatively low height but long distance. The two high jumps had steep jump faces, so they were more likely to have the rear of the truck hit the face of the jump. After the practice day I managed to get my truck to jump everything while keeping the nose up 95% of the time. I had a few nose down issues that I attributed to either a bad section of the jump faces, and something else I noticed that I will share at the end of this post.

I ended up with AE 42.5wt (538cst) front and rear with the 6x1.5 pistons. I had a green spring in the front and yellow spring in the rear. That shock package allowed the truck to jump very well, although it was just a tad loose in the rear. The rear end actually rotated extremely well through the turns, but I had to ease in to the throttle coming out of turns. Next, I want to try the 8x1.3 pistons with a little lighter oil and perhaps a pink spring. The 8x1.3 pistons have the same surface area as the 6x1.5s, but with more/smaller holes it should provide more pack at the end of its travel.

Here is the other thing I noticed while cleaning my truck after the race (see pic below). I run the DE Racing Trinidad wheels and apparently when the wheels are at full throw left or right, the cap head screws on the steering links are rubbing the inside of the front wheels. This would cause the wheels to spin much slower and possibly stop while in the air, which might be causing some of the nose down issues. I've since replaced those two cap head screws with button heads, although I've not had a chance to run the truck since.


Thanks for all of your work, sounds like a lot of tinkering. I noticed the wear on those screws as well, but I really have not had any real issues with nose down unless the face of the jump is really damaged. How does the rear end feel when you press it down?
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Old 09-04-2015, 05:58 PM   #2104
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Thanks for all of your work, sounds like a lot of tinkering. I noticed the wear on those screws as well, but I really have not had any real issues with nose down unless the face of the jump is really damaged. How does the rear end feel when you press it down?
Doing a simple bench test, the rear of the truck still feels soft, but on the track it reacts like its a tad bit stiff. You can tell it has heavy oil in it because the rear of the truck struggles to rebound all the way back unless there is weight transfer forward. The truck jumps great and rotates really well off power, but if you get back in to the throttle too quick before the truck is squared up the rear will walk a little. I'm using a different piston than came with the truck, but I'm soo much heavier in oil (538cst) vs. the kit set-up of 200cst. This is why I want to try a piston that can generate more pack using lighter oil and/or spring. Its my understanding that given two sets of pistons with the same surface area, the piston with more holes (and thus smaller holes) will generate more pack at high shaft speeds, but should feel the same at lower shaft speeds.
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:16 AM   #2105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
To increase bump out you add washers.
To ackermann plate or wheels?
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:18 AM   #2106
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To ackermann plate or wheels?
Either one.
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:44 AM   #2107
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Either one.
Okay. Thanks.
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:48 AM   #2108
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Default Thanks Wease!

Tks a lot for your work, just changed the screws like you did. (these were not rubbing at my car, but just to be shure).
We are no gentleman drivers here, you could see the first qualification run of the last weekend here:

[YOUTUBE]www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3u-LL1uWyQ[/YOUTUBE]

My car is the white one with the green stripe in the middle, (Nissan body).
You can recognize the nose down problem at nearly every jump.

I had old tires this heat, changed to new Blockades M4 and became 4. of 8 competitors.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:44 AM   #2109
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Need help on picking out sensored ESC and and 540 4 pole motor combo for 4wd sct racing.

Thank you
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Old 09-05-2015, 11:29 AM   #2110
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Need help on picking out sensored ESC and and 540 4 pole motor combo for 4wd sct racing.
For ESC I'd recommend a HobbyWing SCT Pro ($82). For motor: many people run 550's so if you go down that road a 4300kv SkyRC ($63) is a great place to start.

That combo is less than $150 US to-your-door: I see so many people pay more than that for just a Tekin ESC but that won't get them ahead of you on the track

Let us know what you decide!
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Old 09-05-2015, 05:30 PM   #2111
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Im in a simiar position, i was planning on getting a tekin setup and once i saw on their website that they might be coming out with new products the 8th i decided to wait. Does any other systems allow you to data log and program it using your phone? To me that makes it worth the money. If you ever watched tekins video on their esc's its pretty neat what they can do.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html
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Old 09-05-2015, 06:08 PM   #2112
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
Im in a simiar position, i was planning on getting a tekin setup and once i saw on their website that they might be coming out with new products the 8th i decided to wait. Does any other systems allow you to data log and program it using your phone? To me that makes it worth the money. If you ever watched tekins video on their esc's its pretty neat what they can do.

http://www.teamtekin.com/hotwire.html

I think one of the Toro ESC does as well as Gruapner(spelled it wrong I would bet)
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Old 09-05-2015, 08:29 PM   #2113
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Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?

Thanks
The best wheels I've found are the DE Speedline +3 SC10 4x4 wheels. They are 1mm wider offset than the SCTE wheels. They are not legal for ROAR events because the truck will be too wide.

Swap out the bolt for a button head bolt of the same size & length.
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Old 09-05-2015, 10:24 PM   #2114
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Man this truck is good. Ran today on low bite dusty track and it had tons of forward bite. Way more than my original 410 and even more than my scte 2.0

Every time I drive it I like it more and more. Ran the 4x1.8 pistons taper up and it transferred weight in the corners great but didn't bottom out on jumps. The bottom of the chassis barely has a scratch.
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Old 09-06-2015, 04:48 AM   #2115
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Man this truck is good. Ran today on low bite dusty track and it had tons of forward bite. Way more than my original 410 and even more than my scte 2.0

Every time I drive it I like it more and more. Ran the 4x1.8 pistons taper up and it transferred weight in the corners great but didn't bottom out on jumps. The bottom of the chassis barely has a scratch.
I just swapped to the 4x1.8's also and going to go do some testing today on indoor clay. Are you running bladder/vented or emulsion? I'm going to play with springs and oil's today, starting pink f/pink r and 50wt f/35wt r and I have them built emulsion at the moment but may go back to a vented bladder setup. It is a great truck for sure
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