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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-31-2015, 01:28 PM   #2086
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Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?

Thanks
I run both JC Hazard wheels, and DE Trinidad wheels and have no rubbing issues.
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:41 PM   #2087
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Ok so I'm at the shock build page and stuck. It states that "vented" is preferred stock build and the arrow points to the middle of the cap, do I drill all the way through the middle of the cap to essentially where the mounting screw will be?. Is this correct, or do I drill the hole coming out at a 45 degree angle with a 1 mm drill bit? Sorry, I haven't built many shocks.
For the vented build, the manual shows to go straight up through the top of the cap to where the bushing goes. If you do this, you cannot use the caps to build the shocks emulsion style. Drill he angled hole and you can use the cap to build both.
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Old 08-31-2015, 02:55 PM   #2088
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Originally Posted by rifraf View Post
Hello peeps,I would like to get opinions on which rims fit the .3 best with little rubbing issues on front steering...My cyclone SCTE rims rub steering very badly full right and left..I can limit my right and left travel,but looks like I will loose quite a bit of steering...Any thoughts?

Thanks
Raise your body posts, I have a flotek body and proline scte f11 wheels with my posts on the third hole up front. They rub very slight when the suspension is completely compressed
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:32 AM   #2089
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Default Tekno or SC5m

I've had the 410.3 for about 8 batteries. As a newb, it was just a little too powerful. Anyone here also drive a Sc5m and compare the two? don't want to get into the 2wd vs 4wd debate but I can say the Tekno was an absolute beast. Realized my main nose down problem is I just was driving too slow mostly. Thanks all for your help here. If anyone wants to trade a like mind sc5m I've got a 410.3 with Tekin rx8 pro 4 setup
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:36 PM   #2090
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Just ran mine for the first time last night on high bite sugar track. Way more stable than my old 410. Truck went together really fast. No issues. Great quality. Great job Tekno!
Glad your happy with your decision bud.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:38 PM   #2091
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Glad your happy with your decision bud.
For sure. So happy i just bought an eb48.3
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:44 PM   #2092
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For sure. So happy i just bought an eb48.3
nice, I also own a SCT410.3 and an EB48.3... where do you race in sacramento?
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:45 PM   #2093
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For sure. So happy i just bought an eb48.3
Ok, now you suck...I was going to, but got the ET48 instead..(And it's a BEAST)

I'll upgrade my eb48.2 to a .3 before next season.
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Old 09-01-2015, 12:45 PM   #2094
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nice, I also own a SCT410.3 and an EB48.3... where do you race in sacramento?
Most of the time at Delta but I try to get to Amain and Madera as much as possible.
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Old 09-01-2015, 02:02 PM   #2095
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Ok, now you suck...I was going to, but got the ET48 instead..(And it's a BEAST)

I'll upgrade my eb48.2 to a .3 before next season.
I love racing truggy class but it's pretty dead around here. The tekno truggies look pretty sick.
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Old 09-02-2015, 11:09 AM   #2096
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Default Ackerman

Can anyone tell me which ackerman holes gives me less ackerman (more aggressive steering)?
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:09 PM   #2097
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Can anyone tell me which ackerman holes gives me less ackerman (more aggressive steering)?
Ackerman means that the outside wheel turns less than the inside wheel. In RC, we usually refer to 'more Ackerman' meaning less outside wheel travel. 'Less Ackerman' means more outside wheel travel. The inside wheel travel is constant.

There aren't too many situations where the outside travels more than the inside wheel, so consider the outside wheel always travels less than the inside. The rear holes in the Ackerman plate provide more Ackerman. Front holes provide less.

All that said, more Ackerman (less outside travel) is more aggressive into a corner and produces more front traction (less slip angle). On power, however, there is less overall steering and the car might push (understeer).

Less Ackerman (more outside wheel travel) is smoother into a corner as the front wheels slip. On power, there is more overall steering and the car might oversteer out of corners.

If you want more steering everywhere, try bump-out in the front. If you want less steering everywhere, try bump-in. Bump-out is twitchy and harder to drive. Bump-in is smooth and easier to drive.
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Old 09-02-2015, 05:43 PM   #2098
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I'm one of those guys who are updating a 410.1 to a 410.3 with shock towers, arms, and hubs (Thanks RC-Waffle). I did replace the diffs as well but that was more of a maintenance issue. I have to much invested in the 410.1 aluminum hinge pin holders to update so now that I'm about to change the rear arms and outer hubs i'm lost on what .1 pills I need to use to get the .3 kit setup. I have the STD rear outer aluminum pin holder btw. I currently have a ton of rear toe and anti-squat. Drives great into corners and I hope the .3 setup performs as well. I know I'll lose 1deg. With the .3 rear hubs.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:52 AM   #2099
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If you want more steering everywhere, try bump-out in the front. If you want less steering everywhere, try bump-in. Bump-out is twitchy and harder to drive. Bump-in is smooth and easier to drive.
Which way do I go on the bump steering shims to get the different bump settings?
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Old 09-04-2015, 09:06 AM   #2100
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Which way do I go on the bump steering shims to get the different bump settings?
To increase bump out you add washers.
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