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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-24-2015, 09:45 AM   #2026
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Default Nose dive solved???

Quote:
Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Hi guys,

http://www.teknorc.com/tekno5/wp-con...Lewis_SDRC.pdf

Here's a new setup sheet for indoor clay that should also work for various outdoor conditions (go up in ride height).

We have heard about some customers having 'nose down' issues. A lot of this is track dependent, power dependent, body dependent, etc. And of course SC trucks tend to do this naturally anyway. In any case, if you are experiencing nose-diving, one of the best changes to make is less anti-squat.

Anti-squat loads the rear suspension on power and unloads off power. This 'throws' the vehicle all over the place. Through the years we have found that all of our vehicles do not respond well to anti-squat since our weight distribution is further forward than just about any other vehicle. Anti-squat is kind of a band-aid setting IMO and is better used on vehicles with more weight over the rear wheels.

Less anti-squat will allow you to enter corners at a higher speed without the rear end coming around as much when you let off the throttle. Additionally, it helps the trajectory immensely by not unloading the rear and throwing it forward.

We've seen a lot of discussion about springs, oil, etc. This matters too, but it won't help if you are running a lot of anti-squat. The stock setup has 3 degrees of anti-squat and works on smoother tracks with tighter turns. I have included a link to a new setup sheet that I encourage you to try if you are still having issues.

Other suspension things to consider if you are having nose down issues:
stiffer front spring
lighter rear spring (assuming you aren't chassis slapping)
thicker front oil
thinner rear oil (assuming you aren't chassis slapping)
less rear droop

Try out less anti-squat - Post your results here!
Was on our track last weekend. Met our TQ there, driving his old 410. There is just 1 real jump in our track, but i had to keep on power in the air to be stable. Tryed stiffer oil in the back, but lightening up to 250cst (pink spring) was better on the rough track. Added some ride hight, car was easyer to predict. Added some toe-in in the back gave more on-power stability out of the corners. The car was nearly perfekt for the rough conditions, mad a lot of fun and was realy save in the corners.
At last i was nearly close to the TQ on the track and he told me: "You won't be the last in our coming race next weekend...if you go on like this"
I will not go on, i will test less anti-squat and more stabilizers (just used 2.2 in the front). The 5 fastest competitors will be here next weekend, as a rookie i have to try and learn more...and post my results.

Thanks for Your advice!
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Old 08-24-2015, 02:20 PM   #2027
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Was on our track last weekend. Met our TQ there, driving his old 410. There is just 1 real jump in our track, but i had to keep on power in the air to be stable. Tryed stiffer oil in the back, but lightening up to 250cst (pink spring) was better on the rough track. Added some ride hight, car was easyer to predict. Added some toe-in in the back gave more on-power stability out of the corners. The car was nearly perfekt for the rough conditions, mad a lot of fun and was realy save in the corners.
At last i was nearly close to the TQ on the track and he told me: "You won't be the last in our coming race next weekend...if you go on like this"
I will not go on, i will test less anti-squat and more stabilizers (just used 2.2 in the front). The 5 fastest competitors will be here next weekend, as a rookie i have to try and learn more...and post my results.

Thanks for Your advice!
Good report.
Now that you have gotten your ride smoothed out, you should concentrate on your suspension frequency. That will take your handling to the next level.
The best way I have found to do this, is to use a camera to video record your truck as you pick it up and drop it several times from 15cm to 30cm.
Once you have your video clip, watch it play back in slow motion and see that the back and front are rebounding at the same frequency. That will help you decided on pistons for the correct pack if needed.
Here is a video link to watch>
Suspension Drop Test
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Old 08-24-2015, 02:48 PM   #2028
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Longer and/or higher link is more stable into a corner. If the rear end is coming around too quickly off throttle or in a sweeper, for example, or there is too much turn-in, go to a longer link. If that doesn't help enough, raise the link on the tower (lower the roll center). The flip side to a higher link is less on-power traction (more steering out of a corner).

A shorter/lower link will make the rear end very reactive and want to come around off power. You will gain traction/forward bite coming out of corners.

If you are a point and shoot driver who goes in hot, hits the brakes, turns and stabs the throttle, you will probably like a shorter link and/or a higher roll center (lower link). Some of this is track dependent.

To be able to drive a short and low link rear end, you have to be on the throttle all the way around the track. Even if it's really light throttle, that will keep the rear end planted pretty well. But if you let off to break or turn, that rear end will be hard to control.

If you are easy on the throttle and brakes and round the corners and drive out of them, try the longer link first. Only move the link up if you are still having issues with the rear end breaking loose off power.

First run last weekends with longer rear link and it was great i beat my fastest lap from 19's to 18's thanks for your advice. Now i change my set up that you posted last week and great and only different is my differential oil.
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Old 08-24-2015, 02:55 PM   #2029
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Default Suspension drop test

Nice video, and a good idea.
Mine was to use my girlfriends new smartphone (with slomo action) and to film the car passing on my test-bump. I could set the cars' speed by using dual rate for throttle to get equal enviroment.

Does same reaction for front and rear suspension make the difference?
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:07 PM   #2030
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Default Weight balance

I found the option to post some pics, see the perfect weight balance of the tekno!
Attached Thumbnails
Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-dsc_0071.jpg   Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-dsc_0072.jpg  
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Old 08-24-2015, 03:21 PM   #2031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Good report.
Now that you have gotten your ride smoothed out, you should concentrate on your suspension frequency. That will take your handling to the next level.
The best way I have found to do this, is to use a camera to video record your truck as you pick it up and drop it several times from 15cm to 30cm.
Once you have your video clip, watch it play back in slow motion and see that the back and front are rebounding at the same frequency. That will help you decided on pistons for the correct pack if needed.
Here is a video link to watch>
Suspension Drop Test
I disagree with using spring frequency tuning like this. This will only confuse the heck out of you. Pack and springs are not set like this. Pack is set to track conditions and springs are set to available traction and jumps.
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Old 08-24-2015, 08:56 PM   #2032
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Everybody79x View Post
I disagree with using spring frequency tuning like this. This will only confuse the heck out of you. Pack and springs are not set like this. Pack is set to track conditions and springs are set to available traction and jumps.
I didn't go into proper detail or use the correct terminology, cause obviously there are many theories and conditions to consider as to how to go about it. I was only trying to point him to something that should be considered in a proper setup and a video to look at for sight reference. Learning the correct methods is up to his research and experimentation. Everyone has a way or alternate theory so I don't bother explaining what I think is right or works for me.
I would suggest that people read the forum post I listed below for all things explained

Last edited by Josh L; 08-24-2015 at 10:31 PM.
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:09 PM   #2033
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Originally Posted by FAO View Post
Nice video, and a good idea.
Mine was to use my girlfriends new smartphone (with slomo action) and to film the car passing on my test-bump. I could set the cars' speed by using dual rate for throttle to get equal enviroment.

Does same reaction for front and rear suspension make the difference?
Yes it matters greatly. There is a whole page write on this very subject somewhere on here to further explain the theories and be benifits of it all.

Start with the first post by fredswain here in this forum post> Tune camber links But be prepared to read, and read some more. It gets very very technical and has many unintentional contradictions for the point of explanation ease. But you will learn so much from this thread that your head will explode on the topic.

Last edited by Josh L; 08-24-2015 at 10:29 PM.
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:17 AM   #2034
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So if you balance your springs with his method, how do you know if you have the correct rates? You could have it balanced based on frequency according to him, but way too stiff or soft. Is there a specific frequency he recommends?
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:29 AM   #2035
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So if you balance your springs with his method, how do you know if you have the correct rates? You could have it balanced based on frequency according to him, but way too stiff or soft. Is there a specific frequency he recommends?
Proper rates are found by testing per track.
I didn't say I used his methods to the tee. I like most of the things he says and think anyone could find his extensive write up useful information to add to a whole slew of other things most probably over look when considering suspension.
I never intended to explain the subject, but rather mention the importance.
Just by my bringing it up it has already drew interest to the topic a few postings up^
Why don't you explain the way you do it?
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:41 AM   #2036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
I found the option to post some pics, see the perfect weight balance of the tekno!
Thats interesting you have a picture of that tekno with the ESC mounted to the rear. That is exactly where I mounted mine with my SCTE 2.0.
I had to make a plate to get the right clearance, but testing it seems to have given me better weight distribution and less wires all over the place.
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Old 08-25-2015, 01:19 AM   #2037
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Proper rates are found by testing per track.
I didn't say I used his methods to the tee. I like most of the things he says and think anyone could find his extensive write up useful information to add to a whole slew of other things most probably over look when considering suspension.
I never intended to explain the subject, but rather mention the importance.
Just by my bringing it up it has already drew interest to the topic a few postings up^
Why don't you explain the way you do it?
I go to the track and actually race and test.

How is the upside down shock testing working out?
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Last edited by rcgod; 08-25-2015 at 02:10 AM.
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Old 08-25-2015, 02:06 AM   #2038
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
I go to the track and actually race and test. I don't sit at home with a camera and count how many bounces my suspension does per second with no oil in the shocks. You might try hitting the track every once in a while. Apply some of that forum reading rc knowledge. How is the upside down shock testing going BTW? Lmao.
I already knew what you where trying to do with your half wit questioning in the last post. Casper already warned us both to stop with the bickering in their thread, but you are determined to bate and undermine everyone in attempt to discredit anything I say or suggest in my personal quest of improving products and design theory, or now even when I try to help people. Who are you anyway? Are you someone that's supposed to be important? Have you actually invented anything or changed the way things are done in the RC industry? Are you a pro? Why would you spend your time arguing against my "inferior input" or anything I say if you know so much?
I would think you would simply ignore me.
But that's not the case with you. You are arrogant and will always have the last word, just as your forum handle suggest.
I have read a lot of the things you say, and agree that you have a decent knowledge of RC cars, but past that in comparison you'd get lost with your little man syndrome in a world of men where I stand. Now shu fly.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:21 AM   #2039
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You two must just have gotten off on the wrong foot. Rcgod is one of the coolest, most chill dudes I've met in RC.
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:31 AM   #2040
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Has anyone had success with the 17mm hex adapter TKR5571-17?

I have a heap of 1/8 buggy wheels that I want to use on my SCT410.3
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