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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-21-2015, 12:24 AM   #1981
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So i built it to spec ,what do i need to do ,if u would let me no, also I'm a super newb first rc ,thanks
Just follow the pills indicated in the setup sheet that was posted. Single dot down and center on the C block, single dot up and out on the D.
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:57 AM   #1982
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Wait. Composite vs aluminum blocks yield differing positions? Please explain in detail. I am installing all 4 aluminum hinge pin braces at the moment. Do they all difffer from the composite ones, and by how much?

Also, do the rear hubs themselves provide a degree of toe in as was the case in the original 410?
Only the C block is different in aluminum. It has 1 less degree of antisquat.
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Old 08-21-2015, 04:48 AM   #1983
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Just follow the pills indicated in the setup sheet that was posted. Single dot down and center on the C block, single dot up and out on the D.
Thanks i will do that an see how it works ,i just re did the diffs and springs too now i am going to tear it apart , minues diff lol
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:09 AM   #1984
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Only the C block is different in aluminum. It has 1 less degree of antisquat.
Can this be added to the product description on the Tekno website? Does this also apply to the NT48? Its something I would like to know before purchasing (already have it on NT48). For right now, I'll set mine to 1 using the stock blocks. My rear end was real loose at wicked.
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Old 08-21-2015, 05:16 AM   #1985
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So only the d block needs to be changed, as the kit setup has the c block down and centered
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Old 08-21-2015, 07:27 AM   #1986
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The center dot on the composite C block is 3*, using the aluminum it is 2*. So the max for both are:
Composite 4*
Aluminum 3*

Minimum is:
Composite 2*
Aluminum 1*
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:16 AM   #1987
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The center dot on the composite C block is 3*, using the aluminum it is 2*. So the max for both are:
Composite 4*
Aluminum 3*

Minimum is:
Composite 2*
Aluminum 1*
So to maintain stock settings with the aluminum c block, use center dot instead of down?

Or put another way, to run less anti squat with the same inserts, just install the aluminum c block?
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Old 08-21-2015, 08:28 AM   #1988
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Or put another way, to run less anti squat with the same inserts, just install the aluminum c block?
Yes.
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:31 AM   #1989
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Yes.
Thank you.

So Aluminum C Block and 1 Dot Down is 1 Degree of Anti Squat, correct?

And dots on the inside of the D block are 2 degrees of rear toe in? Center 3 degrees and outside 4 degrees?

One last thing that was not answered before: Do the new rear hubs also have a degree of toe in, same as the original sct410?
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Old 08-21-2015, 09:45 AM   #1990
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Originally Posted by teknorc View Post
Just follow the pills indicated in the setup sheet that was posted. Single dot down and center on the C block, single dot up and out on the D.
Attached Thumbnails
Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-tekno-sct410.3-block-pill-adjustments.jpg  
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:21 AM   #1991
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A heads up for the guys upgrading the original sct410 to the v3. While I was upgrading my truck I realized the camber links for the new truck have a different offset than the original truck, you will need to use different mounting locations if your trying to achieve the sct410.3 stock settings.
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Old 08-21-2015, 10:47 AM   #1992
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Originally Posted by red100076 View Post
A heads up for the guys upgrading the original sct410 to the v3. While I was upgrading my truck I realized the camber links for the new truck have a different offset than the original truck, you will need to use different mounting locations if your trying to achieve the sct410.3 stock settings.
If talking about the rod ends being offset or centered... makes no difference, the pivot point makes the difference.
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Old 08-21-2015, 11:03 AM   #1993
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If talking about the rod ends being offset or centered... makes no difference, the pivot point makes the difference.
I stand corrected. You made me stop and think about it for a minute. What got me was the rear camber link with one link centered and one offset, I was thinking that was like moving one hole up on the shock tower. Thanks for the correction.
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:23 PM   #1994
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Answers in red.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmkalt View Post
Thank you.

So Aluminum C Block and 1 Dot Down is 1 Degree of Anti Squat, correct?

If the dot in the D block is centered up and down, then yes.

And dots on the inside of the D block are 2 degrees of rear toe in? Center 3 degrees and outside 4 degrees?

If the dot in the C block is centered left and right, then yes, center dot on the D is 3 degrees of toe. single dot out is 4, single dot in is 2, double dot out is 3.5, double dot in is 2.5.

One last thing that was not answered before: Do the new rear hubs also have a degree of toe in, same as the original sct410?

The new rear hubs do not have any built in toe.
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Old 08-21-2015, 01:05 PM   #1995
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Could anyone can give me a clarify the rear camber link because other set up book it says longer link it more stable and rear traction and hudy set up book and it says shorter rear camber link more stable and more rear traction.. I am confused my rear camber link is the shortest camber link outside tower hole#6 and inner rear hub and i feel had a good traction entering the corner but exiting the corner i got loose rear traction. Never try longer link yet.
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