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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-17-2015, 08:26 PM   #1951
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
Anyone ever use novak pinions with the 410? I can get sets of 3 for $20.
I emailed tekno and he said to start with a 15T for a tighter indoor track and 16T for outdoor track
Buy the Tekno pinions! I run a 16t pinion on my hobbywing 4000 on a medium size indoor track.
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Old 08-18-2015, 02:32 AM   #1952
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Well in that case, welcome to the hobby!
It's a whole lot to learn and it never really stops, but your already on the right track being here on the forums. Don't be afraid to ask lots and lots of questions. If you don't understand something be sure to mention your experience level on the particular subjects so people won't be as short with the answers unintentionally.
Most of us generally love to help when we can. Speaking for myself personally, it's half the fun in it.
Also, it's cool that you choose such a quality kit like the tekno as one of your first. You didn't go wrong
well rc kits aren't like mini 4wd ones, so a mistake is worth a few hundred bucks. slash 4x4 was my first choice since it's popular and cheap (2nd hand) but tekno seems to have a rep for ruggedness.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
A 13 doesn't mesh because it's too small. The pinion doesn't reach the spur. The motor mount only slides over so far, so you need to dremel away some metal to make it work if you have your heart set on running a 13.

When you mesh your gears, there needs to be a tiny bit of play between the pinion & spur. Or your motor will overheat. Once you set your mesh, rock the spur gear back & forth and it should move slightly. If your spur won't move ...its too tight. Remesh it
I have a 16t pinion gear...
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:49 AM   #1953
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So how much better does this truck run on an indoor clay track than the SCT410? I have a brand new SCT410.3 in the box that I haven't even built yet and also have a running SCT410 that is like new but have not had much time to fine tune it.

My original plan was to buy a "used" 410 to use on outdoor tracks but when I found a "used" one, it was practically brand new and I am now using it indoors since it was basically new and I didn't want to get it all beat up outside!
I am just debating now if I should build the 410.3 or just keep using my 410. I have heard that a lot of people still like the 410 and its still very solid SCT. If people are saying that the new 410.3 is way better than the 410 then I might build it and use it. Any thoughts would be great!
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Old 08-18-2015, 07:53 AM   #1954
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Originally Posted by darren509 View Post
One more thing I was going to ask. Im running the hobbywing sct pro with a viper 4500kv sensored and will also be using the HW 4700kv. I have been using the 13t pinion and cant quite get it close enough for gear mesh. What size pinion should I use ? Track only has one straight away
Start with a 16 or 17

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
15-16t is a good place for you to start. Much less will create excessive tork, and much more would cause too much heat.
A lot of times with the 4 pole motors, they are under geared and spin at max rpmfor too long, causing excessive heat.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Yeah, a 13 doesn't quite mesh. You can gently dremel some Aluminum away to make the motor slide closer.

I would run a 14t if I were you. I'm running a 15t with a 4400kv and my motor is getting hot. It was 186 today. Definitely start with a 14
You are undergeared. I run a 4700 with an 18t and come off at about 135.
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:40 AM   #1955
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Originally Posted by Nissanguy8 View Post
So how much better does this truck run on an indoor clay track than the SCT410? I have a brand new SCT410.3 in the box that I haven't even built yet and also have a running SCT410 that is like new but have not had much time to fine tune it.

My original plan was to buy a "used" 410 to use on outdoor tracks but when I found a "used" one, it was practically brand new and I am now using it indoors since it was basically new and I didn't want to get it all beat up outside!
I am just debating now if I should build the 410.3 or just keep using my 410. I have heard that a lot of people still like the 410 and its still very solid SCT. If people are saying that the new 410.3 is way better than the 410 then I might build it and use it. Any thoughts would be great!
I would say if you are a chassis tuner kind of guy the .3 is heaven for you and if tune it right,and it'll be tons better than the .1 because of the endless adjust-ability of the chassis. but if you're just want to drive a box stock set up then stick with the .1 cuz the .3 will give you a serious headache if you get lost is set ups !!
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:41 AM   #1956
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I am running 4.5T 550 motor what pinion should start with 100 feet straight?
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:07 AM   #1957
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I would start at 15
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:12 AM   #1958
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I run 16-18 range of pinions with Tekin 4300
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Old 08-18-2015, 01:31 PM   #1959
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
You are undergeared. I run a 4700 with an 18t and come off at about 135.
Really? What motor are you running and what are your outside temps? What size tracks do you run on? Thanks.
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:25 PM   #1960
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Any recommended futaba servos?
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Old 08-19-2015, 07:30 AM   #1961
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Really? What motor are you running and what are your outside temps? What size tracks do you run on? Thanks.
Hobbywing 3656SD. Outside temps are 90 or more. Tracks range everywhere from small to 1/8 large.
Quote:
Originally Posted by novaris View Post
Any recommended futaba servos?
S9352HV
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Old 08-20-2015, 12:55 AM   #1962
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
A lot of times with the 4 pole motors, they are under geared and spin at max rpmfor too long, causing excessive heat.
I agree with this mostly to a point. On some smaller high bite tracks I still like the idea of using a lower range gear for snappy turn in jumps requiring lots of instant torque. But I do pay attention to avoid running out of gear on the straits so I don't go to low. I never really have problems with 16-17 at my smaller local tracks.

And I second the 9352HV servo.
That is what I run and it's phenomenal! But as I have already stated many times on this forum, if you going to run this servo its a good idea to get an external BEC to feed it 7.4v or at least consider direct wiring the power leads to the battery input wires. But only if your never planning on running nothing more than a 2S pack of course.
My HW SCT pro couldn't throw enough juice with it's internal 6v 3amp BEC to prevent steering mush after I was about 2/3rds through a race. A cap just isn't enough in my experience. And besides, why not get everything the servo has to offer if your going to drop $150? Nothing I have seen is any faster or more precise that these servos.
.06 speed with 305 in-oz @ 7.4v for those who aren't familiar with them! Worth every dime
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Old 08-20-2015, 02:24 AM   #1963
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I agree with this mostly to a point. On some smaller high bite tracks I still like the idea of using a lower range gear for snappy turn in jumps requiring lots of instant torque. But I do pay attention to avoid running out of gear on the straits so I don't go to low. I never really have problems with 16-17 at my smaller local tracks.

And I second the 9352HV servo.
That is what I run and it's phenomenal! But as I have already stated many times on this forum, if you going to run this servo its a good idea to get an external BEC to feed it 7.4v or at least consider direct wiring the power leads to the battery input wires. But only if your never planning on running nothing more than a 2S pack of course.
My HW SCT pro couldn't throw enough juice with it's internal 6v 3amp BEC to prevent steering mush after I was about 2/3rds through a race. A cap just isn't enough in my experience. And besides, why not get everything the servo has to offer if your going to drop $150? Nothing I have seen is any faster or more precise that these servos.
.06 speed with 305 in-oz @ 7.4v for those who aren't familiar with them! Worth every dime
Most of the heat issues I see with the 4 pole motors is caused by being undergeared. I see it a few times when someone get their new setup, and runs a 13 or 14t pinion, and it hits 185*. They then try to compensate by going lower yet. You have the right idea of tuning the car by the longest straight. You should have good acceleration down the entire length. I have never been in a situation where I found myself needing more low end grunt with a multi pole motor.
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Old 08-20-2015, 03:50 AM   #1964
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So I started building my kit yesterday, when I assembled the rear diff/gearbox it felt nice and smooth (that was with both shims on the gear side). Where my front one was a little different, the only way I could get it to turn nice and smooth like the rear was to put one shim on the non gear side. I also couldn't get one shim on each side to slide in, one shim would always pinch and bend. The manual says if I use one shim it would be on the gear side. There is a very very slight difference in play between the two, I don't think I should have problem but I was curious if anyone else experienced this.
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Old 08-20-2015, 05:10 AM   #1965
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Originally Posted by TRoy9696 View Post
So I started building my kit yesterday, when I assembled the rear diff/gearbox it felt nice and smooth (that was with both shims on the gear side). Where my front one was a little different, the only way I could get it to turn nice and smooth like the rear was to put one shim on the non gear side. I also couldn't get one shim on each side to slide in, one shim would always pinch and bend. The manual says if I use one shim it would be on the gear side. There is a very very slight difference in play between the two, I don't think I should have problem but I was curious if anyone else experienced this.
I only put one shim to look at the very first post if u want to fix the shim issuie
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