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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-15-2015, 12:43 PM   #1921
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Just do what the heli guys do and put the pivot ball In a drill chuck and blip the drill a few times while holding the ball link stationary as to spin the ball inside the end a few times. Be careful not to over do it though as it will rapidly heat and can over melt the plastic making it to loose permently. It works awesome though and it beats doing the pinch method with pliers because it perfectly seat the ball in the exact shape it needs. Just make quick fast blips, do not keep spinning it.

Here I found a video ball link sizing
I did this the without scoring the pivot ball and it worked great. Thanks for the tip.
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Old 08-15-2015, 05:07 PM   #1922
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Just an update on the problems I was having with the nose dive issues. Well thanks to all the people on here who share their experience and knowledge. Ive read alot of comments regarding just try different things and tune, its part of being in RC. I dont mind fine tuning but reason I bought the tekno was because I was told just build it and never look back. So anyway, I went with pink springs front and rear and the 6 hole pistons on the back shocks with losi 25wt oil. This thing jumps like a champ now. Ran 4 packs through it and it was perfect for me. My track is really rough bumpy and ruts with only one straight away with a big air jump. I still cannot set the front ride height to factory specs and do not believe I ever will without a shorter spring. I have droop set to factory specs no binding and rod ends threaded in all the way. Thank you to all who share their knowledge, its nice to know what direction to go in without throwing money at it and not knowing if it will work.
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Old 08-15-2015, 07:18 PM   #1923
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Originally Posted by darren509 View Post
Just an update on the problems I was having with the nose dive issues. Well thanks to all the people on here who share their experience and knowledge. Ive read alot of comments regarding just try different things and tune, its part of being in RC. I dont mind fine tuning but reason I bought the tekno was because I was told just build it and never look back. So anyway, I went with pink springs front and rear and the 6 hole pistons on the back shocks with losi 25wt oil. This thing jumps like a champ now. Ran 4 packs through it and it was perfect for me. My track is really rough bumpy and ruts with only one straight away with a big air jump. I still cannot set the front ride height to factory specs and do not believe I ever will without a shorter spring. I have droop set to factory specs no binding and rod ends threaded in all the way. Thank you to all who share their knowledge, its nice to know what direction to go in without throwing money at it and not knowing if it will work.
I'm glad you got yours sorted out, but I'm surprised your rear suspension isn't still slamming the jump face and nose diving with those changes. I had a green spring on the rear of mine (1 step stiffer than pink) with 6 hole pistons and 32.5wt AE oil and it was still way too soft. I'm now using an Orange spring (3 steps stiffer than pink) and AE 35wt oil. I think I could probably go down to the Yellow spring if I went up in oil a bit, but mine seems to work well at the current setting.

I guess it depends on the jump faces at your particular track as well. If the jump faces have low angle approach, you can probably go softer because the rear of the chassis is less likely to compress in to the face of the jump at take off. My track had two big doubles with steep approaches and my truck's rear chassis was slamming the face of the jump and sending me nose down almost immediately.
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Old 08-15-2015, 10:40 PM   #1924
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I have a question about lipo's for my 410.3 I am running tekin rx8 gen 2 with pro4 hd 4300. 18t pinion. What battery are you guys using? I have had a Reedy 2s 65C 7000mAh with 5mm bullets for about 2 months and it is starting to bulg pretty bad. Last night at a race it puffed so bad the hard case separated. After a race it is pretty hot, about 130 degrees. What is a good 2s lipo that is somewhat inexpensive? I need one with 5mm bullets to plug my power leads into. A guy at my track said to use 5mm because he has had some resistance issues with deans and 4mm. Any advise on batteries for my setup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:05 PM   #1925
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Originally Posted by novaris View Post
any comments on savox 1258tg?

the lhs does not have the 1256 and says 1258 is newer and better
plus it's the only one with a decent price tag there
I personally run the futaba 9352HV. It has .06 @ 60deg. with 305 oz-in. torque running strait off the battery, or through an external BEC at 7.4v
No matter what you go with, if its a high torque digital, especially a high voltage servo, you will want to run an external BEC. The internal linear BEC built in most ESCs cannot throw the juice these bad boys need, and a glitch buster cap is not enough, even though it will help.

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Originally Posted by red100076 View Post
I did this the without scoring the pivot ball and it worked great. Thanks for the tip.
Glad it helped you out. I have been doing it this way for years now with all my helis and I always get perfect results with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruffdog1 View Post
I have a question about lipo's for my 410.3 I am running tekin rx8 gen 2 with pro4 hd 4300. 18t pinion. What battery are you guys using? I have had a Reedy 2s 65C 7000mAh with 5mm bullets for about 2 months and it is starting to bulg pretty bad. Last night at a race it puffed so bad the hard case separated. After a race it is pretty hot, about 130 degrees. What is a good 2s lipo that is somewhat inexpensive? I need one with 5mm bullets to plug my power leads into. A guy at my track said to use 5mm because he has had some resistance issues with deans and 4mm. Any advise on batteries for my setup would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
I finally came to conclusion that if you have a heavy finger like I do, your better off not going cheap with your batteries. I ran an SMC for a while, but I to was getting puff. Finally I just dished out the cash for a protek 100C pack that does have 5mm inputs. I have not had a single issue since. It was well worth the money and the pack can be charged at 2C if your in a hurry.
I was under the impression that I was going to over pay if I bought anything more than an SMC. But I gotta tell ya. I don't buy that "stop paying to much" crap anymore. Those cheaper packs cannot take what the expensive packs can and I don't care who says different. Not only that, but the protek pack is very noticeable in power difference with punch settings. With SMC I was running a 5-6 punch, but with my protek pack I had to turn it down to 2-3 punch and that gave me the same exact feeling the SMC and other cheap packs did with higher settings. The other great thing... My pack still looks like new with 40 hard runs on it.
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Old 08-15-2015, 11:55 PM   #1926
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Very happy with my Vant Batteries, good price, good performance, and good warranty. Will keep buying them because they are excellent. My SMC puffed as well as my Gforce very quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I personally run the futaba 9352HV. It has .06 @ 60deg. with 305 oz-in. torque running strait off the battery, or through an external BEC at 7.4v
No matter what you go with, if its a high torque digital, especially a high voltage servo, you will want to run an external BEC. The internal linear BEC built in most ESCs cannot throw the juice these bad boys need, and a glitch buster cap is not enough, even though it will help.



Glad it helped you out. I have been doing it this way for years now with all my helis and I always get perfect results with it.



I finally came to conclusion that if you have a heavy finger like I do, your better off not going cheap with your batteries. I ran an SMC for a while, but I to was getting puff. Finally I just dished out the cash for a protek 100C pack that does have 5mm inputs. I have not had a single issue since. It was well worth the money and the pack can be charged at 2C if your in a hurry.
I was under the impression that I was going to over pay if I bought anything more than an SMC. But I gotta tell ya. I don't buy that "stop paying to much" crap anymore. Those cheaper packs cannot take what the expensive packs can and I don't care who says different. Not only that, but the protek pack is very noticeable in power difference with punch settings. With SMC I was running a 5-6 punch, but with my protek pack I had to turn it down to 2-3 punch and that gave me the same exact feeling the SMC and other cheap packs did with higher settings. The other great thing... My pack still looks like new with 40 hard runs on it.
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Old 08-16-2015, 03:56 AM   #1927
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Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I personally run the futaba 9352HV. It has .06 @ 60deg. with 305 oz-in. torque running strait off the battery, or through an external BEC at 7.4v
No matter what you go with, if its a high torque digital, especially a high voltage servo, you will want to run an external BEC. The internal linear BEC built in most ESCs cannot throw the juice these bad boys need, and a glitch buster cap is not enough, even though it will help.
what about the HW xerun sct pro 120a?
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:52 AM   #1928
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I've been running hobbywing sct pro and smc battery's for over year and no problems.
And not gentle on throttle at all!!! no puffing,but i always balance charge...
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Old 08-16-2015, 09:23 AM   #1929
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Very happy with my Vant Batteries, good price, good performance, and good warranty. Will keep buying them because they are excellent. My SMC puffed as well as my Gforce very quickly.
I have not tried those yet, so I will take your word for it and give them a try.

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Originally Posted by novaris View Post
what about the HW xerun sct pro 120a?
That is the ESC I use. The integrated bec can't provide the power a HV servo needs and it will cause a lot of internal resistance and excessive heat. The only way you can fix it is by either directly running the red and black wire from the servo strait to the 2s battery, which is perfectly fine to do, or you can do what I dId and get yourself an adjustable external BEC. I run a Castle 10amp. But if you do buy the CC BEC you will need a castle link to program it from the stock 5.1v output to 7.4v if you want to see your servos max performance output. You will also notice a cooler esc by doing this which will make everything more efficient.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:00 AM   #1930
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guys, I bought a pinion gear that is supposedly mod 1 type and I am not sure if it fits the spur gear properly. there's a little bit of noise and slight play between the teeth.


https://youtu.be/wPaChfDrg-U
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2..._234620_LL.jpg
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:12 AM   #1931
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One more thing I was going to ask. Im running the hobbywing sct pro with a viper 4500kv sensored and will also be using the HW 4700kv. I have been using the 13t pinion and cant quite get it close enough for gear mesh. What size pinion should I use ? Track only has one straight away
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:18 AM   #1932
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One more thing I was going to ask. Im running the hobbywing sct pro with a viper 4500kv sensored and will also be using the HW 4700kv. I have been using the 13t pinion and cant quite get it close enough for gear mesh. What size pinion should I use ? Track only has one straight away
15-16t is a good place for you to start. Much less will create excessive tork, and much more would cause too much heat.
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Old 08-16-2015, 10:25 AM   #1933
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I have not tried those yet, so I will take your word for it and give them a try.



That is the ESC I use. The integrated bec can't provide the power a HV servo needs and it will cause a lot of internal resistance and excessive heat. The only way you can fix it is by either directly running the red and black wire from the servo strait to the 2s battery, which is perfectly fine to do, or you can do what I dId and get yourself an adjustable external BEC. I run a Castle 10amp. But if you do buy the CC BEC you will need a castle link to program it from the stock 5.1v output to 7.4v if you want to see your servos max performance output. You will also notice a cooler esc by doing this which will make everything more efficient.
i think I'll leave it for another time. right now, I have batteries and escs with either tamiya and deans connectors, so it's really troublesome for me to buy/make a y-harness or buy a CC ext BEC then BUY the castle link to reprogram it.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:39 PM   #1934
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i think I'll leave it for another time. right now, I have batteries and escs with either tamiya and deans connectors, so it's really troublesome for me to buy/make a y-harness or buy a CC ext BEC then BUY the castle link to reprogram it.
Yeah I thought I could get around it to, but it ended up costing me a few races with the servo getting mushy near the end of the heat. I added a glitch buster and that helped a little, but it still struggled off and on. Just bypassing the red/black sero wires straight to the battery input and leaving the signal wire to the rx will be your best bet if you dont wAnna fool with the external deal. But it's upto you. You'll know if your standard bec can't handle it, cause what Im telling you will be obvious if it happens and your servo will perform poorly over all
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Old 08-16-2015, 06:33 PM   #1935
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I have not tried those yet, so I will take your word for it and give them a try.
The local indoor track i go to started carrying them, I order them from dirtcheaprc and they offer a 50% trade in value on old puffed/damaged batteries, so when the batteries need to be replaced they give you 50% credit towards the purchase of a new one. Kind of a cool deal. I run a 18t pinion, RX8 gen2, and Pro 4 HD 4300 and get around 9-10 mins run time with a 6500mah from Vant. I've used their 100-200C and 75-150C 2S packs and their 6500 75-150C 4S packs with great results.
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