219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-12-2015, 01:32 AM
#1876
No problem. It cost me a couple races before I figured it out. I was freaking out about it at first because of the price tag on that servo.
So happened at the track that day, a friend had an extra glitch buster cap that I bought off him and that seemed to help, but it still came back to haunt me even then a race or two later.
So I started to do some research and found out the 9352 is a power hungry beast and needs a lot of constant juice! I love my HW ESC, but mine at least just couldn't seem to keep up with that servo's needs. I found that after I installed the external BEC with it turned up to 7.4v, it had more than enough to run this servo and it also helped to drop ESC strain/resistance which keeps things cooler all around for a "peace of mind" perk of increasing my equipment's life span.
Knowing these things, I will never run any ESC's internal BEC again and IMO feel that everyone could possibly benefit from an external deal.
Anyhow, just so you don't have to fool with the research part, know this...
The CC 10amp BEC will come factory set at 5.1v. This is obviously not enough for your particular servo. You will need a castle link to hook it to a pc and program it up to 7.4v if you want max performance out of the 9352.
However, you have two options.
You can either get the standard Castle Link that only has one function, or you can pay only a few $ more for the Field Programmer Card which also doubles as a standard castle link.
Personally I went with later just in case I ever get a castle ESC, or if one of my friends that might have one need something set on the fly it will be there.
Hope that helps you out before you make a purchase.
Also, here is a video for you to look at showing you what I just explained
Programming your BEC with Castle Link
So happened at the track that day, a friend had an extra glitch buster cap that I bought off him and that seemed to help, but it still came back to haunt me even then a race or two later.
So I started to do some research and found out the 9352 is a power hungry beast and needs a lot of constant juice! I love my HW ESC, but mine at least just couldn't seem to keep up with that servo's needs. I found that after I installed the external BEC with it turned up to 7.4v, it had more than enough to run this servo and it also helped to drop ESC strain/resistance which keeps things cooler all around for a "peace of mind" perk of increasing my equipment's life span.
Knowing these things, I will never run any ESC's internal BEC again and IMO feel that everyone could possibly benefit from an external deal.
Anyhow, just so you don't have to fool with the research part, know this...
The CC 10amp BEC will come factory set at 5.1v. This is obviously not enough for your particular servo. You will need a castle link to hook it to a pc and program it up to 7.4v if you want max performance out of the 9352.
However, you have two options.
You can either get the standard Castle Link that only has one function, or you can pay only a few $ more for the Field Programmer Card which also doubles as a standard castle link.
Personally I went with later just in case I ever get a castle ESC, or if one of my friends that might have one need something set on the fly it will be there.
Hope that helps you out before you make a purchase.
Also, here is a video for you to look at showing you what I just explained
Programming your BEC with Castle Link
08-12-2015, 03:05 AM
#1877
No problem. It cost me a couple races before I figured it out. I was freaking out about it at first because of the price tag on that servo.
So happened at the track that day, a friend had an extra glitch buster cap that I bought off him and that seemed to help, but it still came back to haunt me even then a race or two later.
So I started to do some research and found out the 9352 is a power hungry beast and needs a lot of constant juice! I love my HW ESC, but mine at least just couldn't seem to keep up with that servo's needs. I found that after I installed the external BEC with it turned up to 7.4v, it had more than enough to run this servo and it also helped to drop ESC strain/resistance which keeps things cooler all around for a "peace of mind" perk of increasing my equipment's life span.
Knowing these things, I will never run any ESC's internal BEC again and IMO feel that everyone could possibly benefit from an external deal.
Anyhow, just so you don't have to fool with the research part, know this...
The CC 10amp BEC will come factory set at 5.1v. This is obviously not enough for your particular servo. You will need a castle link to hook it to a pc and program it up to 7.4v if you want max performance out of the 9352.
However, you have two options.
You can either get the standard Castle Link that only has one function, or you can pay only a few $ more for the Field Programmer Card which also doubles as a standard castle link.
Personally I went with later just in case I ever get a castle ESC, or if one of my friends that might have one need something set on the fly it will be there.
Hope that helps you out before you make a purchase.
Also, here is a video for you to look at showing you what I just explained
Programming your BEC with Castle Link
So happened at the track that day, a friend had an extra glitch buster cap that I bought off him and that seemed to help, but it still came back to haunt me even then a race or two later.
So I started to do some research and found out the 9352 is a power hungry beast and needs a lot of constant juice! I love my HW ESC, but mine at least just couldn't seem to keep up with that servo's needs. I found that after I installed the external BEC with it turned up to 7.4v, it had more than enough to run this servo and it also helped to drop ESC strain/resistance which keeps things cooler all around for a "peace of mind" perk of increasing my equipment's life span.
Knowing these things, I will never run any ESC's internal BEC again and IMO feel that everyone could possibly benefit from an external deal.
Anyhow, just so you don't have to fool with the research part, know this...
The CC 10amp BEC will come factory set at 5.1v. This is obviously not enough for your particular servo. You will need a castle link to hook it to a pc and program it up to 7.4v if you want max performance out of the 9352.
However, you have two options.
You can either get the standard Castle Link that only has one function, or you can pay only a few $ more for the Field Programmer Card which also doubles as a standard castle link.
Personally I went with later just in case I ever get a castle ESC, or if one of my friends that might have one need something set on the fly it will be there.
Hope that helps you out before you make a purchase.
Also, here is a video for you to look at showing you what I just explained
Programming your BEC with Castle Link
👍
08-12-2015, 06:11 AM
#1878
Tech Adept
from page 1 it states, "Our posts can be adjusted to directly line up with those of the Losi SCTE, Traxxas Slash"
can anyone confirm it's the slash and not slash 4x4? I'm getting the proline f150 body and it has different body posts kits for the slash and slah 4x4.
can anyone confirm it's the slash and not slash 4x4? I'm getting the proline f150 body and it has different body posts kits for the slash and slah 4x4.
08-12-2015, 08:00 AM
#1879
Tech Master
I figured it out with the V1, and I'm also not having the issue with the V3. I can also drive the V3 harder, and getting better results than the V1. Possible my skills have gotten better, but I had identical race times last weekend with my sct410.3 & my EB48.2 on the same track. Says a lot for the .3 IMHO.
08-12-2015, 08:35 AM
#1880
Tech Master
If your talking about the proline body posts with the screw caps, they make one specifically for the tekno now.
08-12-2015, 08:44 AM
#1881
It's easy, called test and tune bud. You've been around long enough to figure this out.
I figured it out with the V1, and I'm also not having the issue with the V3. I can also drive the V3 harder, and getting better results than the V1. Possible my skills have gotten better, but I had identical race times last weekend with my sct410.3 & my EB48.2 on the same track. Says a lot for the .3 IMHO.
I figured it out with the V1, and I'm also not having the issue with the V3. I can also drive the V3 harder, and getting better results than the V1. Possible my skills have gotten better, but I had identical race times last weekend with my sct410.3 & my EB48.2 on the same track. Says a lot for the .3 IMHO.
That being said, I'm not bashing the truck. Like I said I would love to own another one but I'm a little spooked by reading the same complaints on this thread.
08-12-2015, 08:54 AM
#1882
I've been testing & tuning from Day 1. Every week I clean, rebuild the shocks and make a small change or two. Every weekend I try new things, to see if they help or hurt. And I keep notes on what I've changed and whether it's good or bad.
Seriously, this truck is amazing. You won't have any regrets whatsoever. It's a beast
Seriously, this truck is amazing. You won't have any regrets whatsoever. It's a beast
08-12-2015, 09:05 AM
#1883
Tech Master
If you were around when the original truck was released I was very active on that forum and came up with a good setup that a lot of guys tried and liked. If you knew me you wouldn't be lecturing me on test and tune because I change my setup every race day and sometimes several times. I get a lot of crap from my racing friends because my truck is always torn apart between heats changing something. I tried literally dozens of setups over the course of a year owning that truck. If I increased pack and/or spring rate to get it to jump right it didn't transfer weight and lost grip. It was frustrating to say the least. And after driving Austin Blair's truck I knew it was more than a setup issue. His felt no better than mine.
That being said, I'm not bashing the truck. Like I said I would love to own another one but I'm a little spooked by reading the same complaints on this thread.
That being said, I'm not bashing the truck. Like I said I would love to own another one but I'm a little spooked by reading the same complaints on this thread.
The .3 has taken me a couple months to get it close, with using race days as testing days, but she's on point now. (First race was abysmal to be honest, chassis slapping/nose diving galore) I'm in debate with myself if I want to lighten the suspension a little more, which I think I am going to do. Your same tuning advice applies here to be honest. But, I'm also racing on different tracks now vs then. Before I was on indoor clay, and now I'm outdoors with bigger tracks.
As far as sheet chasers, I like trying out different setup's sometimes to see how I like them. I'll go to a track with another setup in the truck, see how I like it. Change it a little if something doesn't feel right. And fine tune them to see what I end up with. As was said, Everyone has different driving styles. I also like looking at other sheets, to see how close/far they are with mine. Helps me know if I'm out in left field or not, but also reads to how different the tracks are.
08-12-2015, 09:23 AM
#1884
Oh, believe me, I know the name. That's why I said you've been around long enough. I used some of your advice getting my V1 dialed in, and I must say, You were a great help. Thanks for that! My comment wasn't meant as lecturing by any means, sorry it came out that way.
The .3 has taken me a couple months to get it close, with using race days as testing days, but she's on point now. (First race was abysmal to be honest, chassis slapping/nose diving galore) I'm in debate with myself if I want to lighten the suspension a little more, which I think I am going to do. Your same tuning advice applies here to be honest. But, I'm also racing on different tracks now vs then. Before I was on indoor clay, and now I'm outdoors with bigger tracks.
As far as sheet chasers, I like trying out different setup's sometimes to see how I like them. I'll go to a track with another setup in the truck, see how I like it. Change it a little if something doesn't feel right. And fine tune them to see what I end up with. As was said, Everyone has different driving styles. I also like looking at other sheets, to see how close/far they are with mine. Helps me know if I'm out in left field or not, but also reads to how different the tracks are.
The .3 has taken me a couple months to get it close, with using race days as testing days, but she's on point now. (First race was abysmal to be honest, chassis slapping/nose diving galore) I'm in debate with myself if I want to lighten the suspension a little more, which I think I am going to do. Your same tuning advice applies here to be honest. But, I'm also racing on different tracks now vs then. Before I was on indoor clay, and now I'm outdoors with bigger tracks.
As far as sheet chasers, I like trying out different setup's sometimes to see how I like them. I'll go to a track with another setup in the truck, see how I like it. Change it a little if something doesn't feel right. And fine tune them to see what I end up with. As was said, Everyone has different driving styles. I also like looking at other sheets, to see how close/far they are with mine. Helps me know if I'm out in left field or not, but also reads to how different the tracks are.
Cool. I appreciate the advice. I think I'm going to go ahead and pick one up. I do the same as you, I look at other setup sheets and look for similarities between my setup and theirs and also get some good ideas to try that maybe I didn't think about. Sounds like Tekno definitely improved the truck since I had one. Looking forward to trying one out.
08-12-2015, 11:55 AM
#1885
Using 410.3 arms with original hinge pin braces?
Hey guys, I'm upgrading my sct410.1 to the v3 suspension geometry and I was wondering if the new arms and hubs have the same toe in and anti squat angles as the originals? The reason for asking is that I have the original hinge pin brace system all in aluminum and I don't plan on upgrading the braces at this time, but I want to be sure I have the correct anti squat and toe in settings.
08-12-2015, 11:56 AM
#1886
I personally like when people talk about their set ups and why they did or didn't work. I'm fairly new to the hobby and I've been buying RTR's until getting my first race kit, the SCT 410.3.
I enjoy reading about what others have experienced and what they've done to improve.
Thanks for sharing!
I enjoy reading about what others have experienced and what they've done to improve.
Thanks for sharing!
08-12-2015, 12:01 PM
#1887
Tech Master
You Should be fine to use your old blocks, but you'll just be shy on all the adjustments.
08-12-2015, 12:30 PM
#1888
08-12-2015, 12:35 PM
#1889
I understand that I won't have as many adjustment options available to me as I have less hole positions. But I'm not understanding how I will be "just shy on the adjustments"? The v3 stock setup is 3 degree anti squat and and 2 degrees toe in. Those are the exact numbers the original system gives me. Am I missing something?
Attachment 1310834
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08-12-2015, 12:48 PM
#1890
I was not aware that you could adjust the roll center at the hinge braces, I thought that was all in the camber link adjustment. Thanks for the lesson. So with the original braces I can only go up and down on the inner rear block and side to side on the rear, the new braces add in a diagonal adjustments. Got it.
I want to start with the stock v3 settings in the rear of the truck which is 3 degrees anti-squat and 2 degrees toe in. So correct me if I'm wrong, front brace top dot and rear brace inner dot?