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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-11-2015, 10:39 AM   #1861
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Default "Nose down" experiments I.

I did build a "Nose down bump ramp", changed pistons in the rear to 3x2,0 conical, used green front spring in the back, canged oil to 466cst, combined and tested in the backyard.
Pink spring with original Piston and 300 CST semed to be the best option, but the testing is not done because of a broken bladder, maybe the piston i build was to conical and touched the bladder membrane.
Just ordered some bladder membranes and shock boots from XRAY XB9, hope they fit.
The Tekno shock boots are horrible, cracked early at nearly every wrinkle.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:14 PM   #1862
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ran my 410.3 box setup imulsion shocks tekin rx8 turnigy 5200 5600 vant 2s batteries the only change was raised the rear camber links 1 hole no nose issues at all just have to remember when launching stay about1/4 throttle no problems it was my first sc run used to 1/8 buggy was a blast
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:17 PM   #1863
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vant batteries are available at dirtcheaprc free shipping with code
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:02 PM   #1864
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Default Wallet-trigger-itis

My 410.1 is undergoing the conversion to a .3 as we speak but after reading all these pages it looks like people are just as lost (including me) on how to get a good set up as the guys still racing the older 410.1. I have to say I'm having second thoughts on changing all the suspension over to the .3 geometry. I've had pretty good luck with my .1 outdoors. She flies in the corners on a dusty track. I do have to control the throttle for jumping but I'm afraid I'll loose it all with the new arms, towers, and hubs. Even with a better handling truck I still will need to pull that trigger harder as my confidence gets better. Thats my biggest hangup right now. I'm never going as fast as I should or feel I could knowing the faster I'm going the more its going to cost when I hit the wall. It a disease I call wallettriggeritis. A big thanks to all the flee bay guys selling .3 parts from new kits. It saves me a ton of mullah. Anyone ever notice that the tekno bearings have no contact seals. They might as well be no better than the metal shielded junk that last one weekend. I can see the inner balls between the inner race and the black rubber shield. Not a hater just hoped that since this is a dirt type truck it would have better bearings. I know the fast guys like no contact seals but I'd rather have less maintenance bearings. My track is a dust bowl. The kind of place where you have to stop off at a car was after a day at the track. Its hell on all the cars and trucks. I only race one class because who has time to clean more than one car/truck every week. I digress.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:54 PM   #1865
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Neither one are a challenge to find a good setup. This truck throws down and runs good on any track better than any other I have driven. I was constantly fighting with my Losi trying to make it as good and consistent as this thing is. From what I have seen locally, the guys that struggle with this truck are running too much motor and aren't controlling their truck. I've found with mine that the slower I go, the quicker my lap times are.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:17 PM   #1866
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Default 410.3

I've owned v1 and v3. I like them both. For me, both trucks initially had nose dive issues, the v1 more than v3. For me, the way i take the jumps made the biggest difference. I've never driven a diff brand sct, but my understanding is nose-diving is a characteristic of sct. They jump differently than my 1/8 scale buggy and truggy. I guess my point here is that i'm trying to defend the .3 a lil. I understand some people are having problems, but is it a characteristic of the class or is it the .3? Anyway, i like mines. I ran it stock. It jumped well at pit in lugoff, sc (1st ever run on it) but i was getting that donkey kick over the triple at my home track in johnson city, tn. Went to all pinks with stock pistons and 400/300 f/r and it got better. Only happened if i hit the throttle hard b4 the triple. Decided to try all greens with 6x1.5 pistons, 400/300 f/r and no issues with donkey kick. Rear grip is good, prob could be a lil better. Anyway, i really like the truck. My only issue is the weak rear shock tower. They always bend on me. The new carbon fiber ones have been great tho.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:11 PM   #1867
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It also depends on the jump face, and how it's built. My nosediving is under control, its 60% driver 40% truck. Once you learn how the truck behaves you learn to compensate. Don't letba little forum complaining about one tiny issue deter you from building a .3. This truck is hands down the best on the track. It's super simple to set up and dial in.

I've been racing for 4 months, and I was getting 15th place with my SC10 4x4. I bought a 410.3 and now I'm running in the top 5 consistently.
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Old 08-11-2015, 08:23 PM   #1868
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Its a great truck........the best IMO. Its not perfect though, none of them are. There are a couple issues with the truck that can be sorted that I am not going to rehash over and over, facts are facts though and I personally am faster with this truck then I was with my previous truck (not a Tekno) even though I have a couple quirks I am struggling with on this platform. With that said If I had a gen1 that was super dialed and I was getting it done with it I am not so sure I would change up to the new stuff but thats just me.
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:19 PM   #1869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hawks View Post
Here is my new build.

HW SCT PRO
SMC 4500kv 4 pole 540
Futaba S9352HV
SMC 6500mah 60c

Hope you plan on running an external BEC. I have the same setup in my SCTE 2.0, and about 3/4 the way through a race, the internal ESC BEC could not muster enough current to keep that servo working properly unless I let off of the throttle. That servo needs at least a constant no loss 6 volts and it can handle up to 8.3 coming from the heli guys who run them, but your hobbywing ESC can only output 6v @ 3amps not taking into account any other loads or resistance increases.
If you want to save yourself a future head ache and potential race loss, I'd either bypass the servo's red and black wires directly to the battery if you don't intend to run anything over a 2S or just get a CC adjustable BEC and go that route. HV servos are real hard on internal BEC circuits, and trust me just a capacitor isn't enough. Nice setup by the way!
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Old 08-11-2015, 09:59 PM   #1870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
It also depends on the jump face, and how it's built. My nosediving is under control, its 60% driver 40% truck. Once you learn how the truck behaves you learn to compensate. Don't letba little forum complaining about one tiny issue deter you from building a .3. This truck is hands down the best on the track. It's super simple to set up and dial in.

I've been racing for 4 months, and I was getting 15th place with my SC10 4x4. I bought a 410.3 and now I'm running in the top 5 consistently.
IMO you shouldn't have to compensate your driving to get the truck not to nose down. I wish someone would put this to rest and figure it out once and for all. I would love to try another sct410 and was hoping the .3 would end the jumping issue but apparently it hasn't.
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Last edited by rcgod; 08-11-2015 at 11:18 PM.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:36 PM   #1871
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
IMO you shouldn't have to compensate your driving to get the truck not to nose down. I wish someone would put this to rest and figure it out once and for all. I would love to try another sct410 and was hoping the .3 would end the jumping issue but apparently it hasn't.
I totally agree, you should NOT have to compensate your driving... However, the problem is resolved... the stock setup is soft in the rear and the chassis slaps on aggressive jumps. I went up to 35wt associated shock fluid and I don't have the issue hardly at all and the track I run on is super thick top loose layer and I still get rear traction. I can't imagine most people running on a looser track than I'm on so just throw a little stiffer oil in those rear shocks and perhaps just a smidge stiffer springs and it's really not a problem at all. I'm even running a rear skid plate which makes it easier to chassis slap in the rear.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:42 PM   #1872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Hope you plan on running an external BEC. I have the same setup in my SCTE 2.0, and about 3/4 the way through a race, the internal ESC BEC could not muster enough current to keep that servo working properly unless I let off of the throttle. That servo needs at least a constant no loss 6 volts and it can handle up to 8.3 coming from the heli guys who run them, but your hobbywing ESC can only output 6v @ 3amps not taking into account any other loads or resistance increases.
If you want to save yourself a future head ache and potential race loss, I'd either bypass the servo's red and black wires directly to the battery if you don't intend to run anything over a 2S or just get a CC adjustable BEC and go that route. HV servos are real hard on internal BEC circuits, and trust me just a capacitor isn't enough. Nice setup by the way!
Thanks for the tip. I'll check out the CC BEC
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:43 PM   #1873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FAO View Post
I did build a "Nose down bump ramp", changed pistons in the rear to 3x2,0 conical, used green front spring in the back, canged oil to 466cst, combined and tested in the backyard.
Pink spring with original Piston and 300 CST semed to be the best option, but the testing is not done because of a broken bladder, maybe the piston i build was to conical and touched the bladder membrane.
Just ordered some bladder membranes and shock boots from XRAY XB9, hope they fit.
The Tekno shock boots are horrible, cracked early at nearly every wrinkle.
I busted two bladders in a rear shock that the top of the shaft was tearing a hole in the bladder... I dremelled down the shock shaft a bit and inserted a few mm thick spacer at the bottom of the shock shaft and the problem is gone... very odd that I only had this issue on the one rear corner and twice with brand new bladders.
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Old 08-11-2015, 11:47 PM   #1874
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I have the .3 and love it. Sold my losi right away. I am a tekno believer now. Imo...people spend way to much time trying to find other people's set ups. Everybody's driving style is different. Quit spending so much time on somebody else's setups and find something that works for you. I went with the stock set up and make small changes here and there and have been doing better with each change.
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Old 08-12-2015, 01:27 AM   #1875
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
I have the .3 and love it. Sold my losi right away. I am a tekno believer now. Imo...people spend way to much time trying to find other people's set ups. Everybody's driving style is different. Quit spending so much time on somebody else's setups and find something that works for you. I went with the stock set up and make small changes here and there and have been doing better with each change.
Welcome to the club.

Having drove a Losi prior, and owning a Tekno since day one... I truly believe the Tekno forum group is exactly the opposite of "sheet chasers".

I see other forums mirro setups often though... just not here.
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