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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-04-2015, 05:19 PM   #1816
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Hey guys, whats the best way to build the shocks for a 1/8 track with large jumps?

Standard, Vented or Emulsion?
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Old 08-04-2015, 05:26 PM   #1817
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
Nobody notice the rear dogs rubing
I have noticed they are close, but no rubbing on mine. Id suggest just getting out a sanding drum on a dremel and slowly grind away till you have clearance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hawks View Post
Hey guys, whats the best way to build the shocks for a 1/8 track with large jumps?

Standard, Vented or Emulsion?
Standard buid, no vent.
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Old 08-06-2015, 05:55 AM   #1818
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Solved the nose down problem with small motor can (450 size, -100g, light controller in the back left , -60g and shorty lipo-100g. Car is about 2650g without body. The first race (Clay, getting dry and dusty) was much better than the others before, but need more practice. Next test will be on astro turf.
What motor, esc, and battery are you running now?(I've been running a 1410 castle and the sidewinder sct esc and still suffering from the problem)
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:42 AM   #1819
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Have someone take a vid of your truck on the jump face you are having a problem with. I'd be willing to bet you are blowing through the travel in the rear. Essentially what FAO did was remove weight from the rear of the truck.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:58 AM   #1820
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Here is my sct410.3 ready for saturday.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:46 PM   #1821
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Looks good bud. Try running it as is. Then after a couple races, remove the rear & center chassis braces. See if it makes a difference. It made a big difference for me, more than I expected.
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Old 08-06-2015, 09:47 PM   #1822
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Anybody try running heavier oil in the rear than the front? I notice everybody runs heavier in the front? Why is this? Thinking about going with 32.5F/35R this weekend.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:01 AM   #1823
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I don't tune my truck unless there are handling issues. Barillms, I'm assuming you have a handling issue that is causing you to want to make this change. What is the issue? Generally, when I start with a new vehicle, I spring balance first (no oil in the shocks) and then oil balance. This gives me a really good starting point and I've had a number of people tell me that my shock packages feel perfect (always awesome getting positive comments about your package).
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:57 AM   #1824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
I don't tune my truck unless there are handling issues. Barillms, I'm assuming you have a handling issue that is causing you to want to make this change. What is the issue? Generally, when I start with a new vehicle, I spring balance first (no oil in the shocks) and then oil balance. This gives me a really good starting point and I've had a number of people tell me that my shock packages feel perfect (always awesome getting positive comments about your package).
How do you go about spring balancing and oil balancing? Thanks.
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:04 AM   #1825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
How do you go about spring balancing and oil balancing? Thanks.
Check out the 4th post from "fredswain" here for that information:

Tune With Camber Links
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:14 AM   #1826
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Anybody try running heavier oil in the rear than the front? I notice everybody runs heavier in the front? Why is this? Thinking about going with 32.5F/35R this weekend.
The reason the front is usually set heavier than the rear is because the front end gets the brunt of the force first. When you approach a jump or bump, all the weight and force of the car that hits the jump first is the front, the rear just follows what the front does, but has less energy pushing it.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:02 AM   #1827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
Nobody notice the rear dogs rubing
I noticed it at first and then checked my drop and it was at max or almost max. Once adjusted to 120mm give or take 1-2 mm, it did not rub/bind up.
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Old 08-07-2015, 09:22 AM   #1828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
I don't tune my truck unless there are handling issues. Barillms, I'm assuming you have a handling issue that is causing you to want to make this change. What is the issue? Generally, when I start with a new vehicle, I spring balance first (no oil in the shocks) and then oil balance. This gives me a really good starting point and I've had a number of people tell me that my shock packages feel perfect (always awesome getting positive comments about your package).
So, what springs/oils did you end up with using that method?
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:33 PM   #1829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
I don't tune my truck unless there are handling issues. Barillms, I'm assuming you have a handling issue that is causing you to want to make this change. What is the issue? Generally, when I start with a new vehicle, I spring balance first (no oil in the shocks) and then oil balance. This gives me a really good starting point and I've had a number of people tell me that my shock packages feel perfect (always awesome getting positive comments about your package).
You don't tune your truck? Why? Lol
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Old 08-08-2015, 10:21 AM   #1830
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Will Tekno truggy A-arms fit on the SCT 410.3? If so it might make a cool monster truck option.

Here's mine doing a parking lot run.
+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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