219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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08-01-2015, 12:35 PM
#1771
Just picked up my SCT410.3 I have run a Tekno every summer for 3 years now. Last year the best I ever had the truck was Kyosho 1/8 buggy light blue springs front and TEKNO yellow rear springs. AE 37.5wt front 32.5wt rear with whatever stock Pistons were with last years kit. It got rid of the nose diving on our bigger jumps and the truck was really easy to drive IMO. Outdoor hard packed dry with dust layer. Hope this can help anyone
-Ducky
-Ducky
08-01-2015, 02:58 PM
#1772
Laying them down would be the outside hole on the arm, therefore less leverage on the shock. The set up guide says it makes the shock more progressive... Where it's soft initially, then progressively gets stiffer throughout the stroke.
08-01-2015, 04:57 PM
#1773
Tech Adept
iTrader: (3)
Laying them down is always referred to the tower not the arm. Seperate adjustments. Arm changes the lever ratio which makes the shock shaft speed change for the same amount of wheel travel (affects pack and spring rate effectiveness). Tower changes the progressiveness of the shock.
08-01-2015, 08:12 PM
#1774
What size wheel nuts fit on this car?
08-01-2015, 11:10 PM
#1777
Laying them down is always referred to the tower not the arm. Seperate adjustments. Arm changes the lever ratio which makes the shock shaft speed change for the same amount of wheel travel (affects pack and spring rate effectiveness). Tower changes the progressiveness of the shock.
08-02-2015, 06:43 AM
#1778
08-02-2015, 10:37 AM
#1779
Tech Initiate
Hello, I'm wondering if someone can help me with a high grip setup? I ran the car for the first time today and I had a massive group roll problem. I tried lowing the car as much as I could but it still didn't really help that much. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
08-02-2015, 02:11 PM
#1780
Tech Initiate
I am having a problem with the front ride height being too high. Nothing I have done will bring it down to stock height. I am at about 31mm with body and battery, and have been reading page after page in here and cant find my answer yet. Anyone else have a solution for this ?
08-02-2015, 02:20 PM
#1781
I am having a problem with the front ride height being too high. Nothing I have done will bring it down to stock height. I am at about 31mm with body and battery, and have been reading page after page in here and cant find my answer yet. Anyone else have a solution for this ?
08-02-2015, 02:21 PM
#1782
Hello, I'm wondering if someone can help me with a high grip setup? I ran the car for the first time today and I had a massive group roll problem. I tried lowing the car as much as I could but it still didn't really help that much. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
08-02-2015, 02:24 PM
#1783
Tech Regular
I am having a problem with the front ride height being too high. Nothing I have done will bring it down to stock height. I am at about 31mm with body and battery, and have been reading page after page in here and cant find my answer yet. Anyone else have a solution for this ?
08-02-2015, 02:51 PM
#1784
I am having a problem with the front ride height being too high. Nothing I have done will bring it down to stock height. I am at about 31mm with body and battery, and have been reading page after page in here and cant find my answer yet. Anyone else have a solution for this ?
1. This is what I think might be getting a lot of people. Make sure your shock shaft is completely screwed into the shock end. If you measure your completed shocks the front should be no longer than 104.75mm and the rear no longer than 120.75mm. That's eye to eye measurement. From the bottom of the shock guide to the top of the shock end should be 30.25mm in the front and 38.25mm in the rear. The way I like to check the depth without calipers is by continuing to tighten the shock end in until the ball no longer spins freely than back it off about a quarter turn or until it's free again.
2. Make sure you're measuring from the flat part of the chassis in the front, not the kick-up part.
3. The less rebound you build your shocks with the lower you can get your ride height.
4. This has been stated already but it bears repeating - all springs need some use to settle. The more you run your springs (up to a point of course) the lower your ride height can be.
5. Make sure that the spring perch is under the shock boot. Our old shock boots used to go through the perch, that is not the case with the new ones.
6. If you try all of those and still have problems, try shaving the plastic collars down, that's good for ~2mm.
That's all I can think of right now, if anyone else has any tips or ideas, please post them up.
08-02-2015, 04:45 PM
#1785
So I recently rebuilt my shocks and while doing that I came up with some more theories as to why getting the correct ride height can be difficult. I am simply going to list everything I can think of - and yes, we realize that some of our springs are a little longer than is optimal for some situations.
1. This is what I think might be getting a lot of people. Make sure your shock shaft is completely screwed into the shock end. If you measure your completed shocks the front should be no longer than 104.75mm and the rear no longer than 120.75mm. That's eye to eye measurement. From the bottom of the shock guide to the top of the shock end should be 30.25mm in the front and 38.25mm in the rear. The way I like to check the depth without calipers is by continuing to tighten the shock end in until the ball no longer spins freely than back it off about a quarter turn or until it's free again.
2. Make sure you're measuring from the flat part of the chassis in the front, not the kick-up part.
3. The less rebound you build your shocks with the lower you can get your ride height.
4. This has been stated already but it bears repeating - all springs need some use to settle. The more you run your springs (up to a point of course) the lower your ride height can be.
5. Make sure that the spring perch is under the shock boot. Our old shock boots used to go through the perch, that is not the case with the new ones.
6. If you try all of those and still have problems, try shaving the plastic collars down, that's good for ~2mm.
That's all I can think of right now, if anyone else has any tips or ideas, please post them up.
1. This is what I think might be getting a lot of people. Make sure your shock shaft is completely screwed into the shock end. If you measure your completed shocks the front should be no longer than 104.75mm and the rear no longer than 120.75mm. That's eye to eye measurement. From the bottom of the shock guide to the top of the shock end should be 30.25mm in the front and 38.25mm in the rear. The way I like to check the depth without calipers is by continuing to tighten the shock end in until the ball no longer spins freely than back it off about a quarter turn or until it's free again.
2. Make sure you're measuring from the flat part of the chassis in the front, not the kick-up part.
3. The less rebound you build your shocks with the lower you can get your ride height.
4. This has been stated already but it bears repeating - all springs need some use to settle. The more you run your springs (up to a point of course) the lower your ride height can be.
5. Make sure that the spring perch is under the shock boot. Our old shock boots used to go through the perch, that is not the case with the new ones.
6. If you try all of those and still have problems, try shaving the plastic collars down, that's good for ~2mm.
That's all I can think of right now, if anyone else has any tips or ideas, please post them up.
" and yes, we realize that some of our springs are a little longer than is optimal for some situations."
It's nice to know I wasn't completely crazy fighting the ride height issues on both truck and SL buggy
