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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-21-2015, 05:41 AM   #1636
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Originally Posted by novaris View Post
i don't quite get this website or the upgrade kit.

isn't the kit supposed to upgrade the 410 to 410.3? so what's with the drop down menu parts?
Its a basic upgrade, geometry only. If you want the lighten stuff, new pills, etc., you have to add those. I think I read the original thought was that people already had some of the lighten stuff and also you could upgrade the other stuff over time.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:05 AM   #1637
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Yes, I broke the front bumper in the first couple of races I had it. It came out from the bottom. So I used my old sct410 front bumper, works much better if you dont need the extra clearance. Overall I'm very disappointed in this version loved the original. Ass end too soft tried all kinds of pistons 8x1.3 6x1.5 10x1.2 springs oil changes.not sure at this point, I feel like just selling my .3. Not happy at all TEKNO.......help
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Originally Posted by Snarf450r View Post
Also, their are 4 other people at the track having same issues as I am.we are working together trying to find a decent setup.btw I'm outdoors low grip red dirt big doubles very fast track.any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll try anything at this point. Sorry dont mean to bash tekno.like I said in prev post.version 1 was awesome.
I've made some changes, and I believe I'm pretty close. Truck was awesome last weekend. 450/350 black spring front, green spring rear, and lower shock mount out on all 4 corners. -1° front -2° rear. And 7g of lead in the rear. Other than those changes, I'm stock. Truck is awesome. Now I'm just doing minor tweaks from there. (rx8 gen2, pro4 4000kv, 17t pinion)

Couple people have suggested to use pink springs all around. I haven't tried that yet. As far as huge jumps, you can't just throttle all the way up to it & over, she no like that.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:47 AM   #1638
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
Thanks for the info, I ordered the replacement bladders and I'll just chalk this one up to bad luck. The truck really is awesome, ordered an EB48.3 because I loved the SCT410.3 so much.
unless something changed on the shocks, I liked the serpent bladders on the V1. I wonder if your issue was too much uptravel and the shaft bumped the bladder if I am understanding right what you saw.

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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
...
Couple people have suggested to use pink springs all around. I haven't tried that yet. As far as huge jumps, you can't just throttle all the way up to it & over, she no like that.
lol yeah, that was something that you have to get used to with the sct410. If you have trouble with that, it can be a bear to fight especially if other cars in your arsenal dont' do that.

As for people having grip issues, at least on the V1 the biggest change that helped for me was going to 2K in the rear diff. I tried all last year to be like other peoples setups running 3K and it was no bueno. should have stuck to my 2K lol.
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:32 AM   #1639
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Originally Posted by Snarf450r View Post
Also, their are 4 other people at the track having same issues as I am.we are working together trying to find a decent setup.btw I'm outdoors low grip red dirt big doubles very fast track.any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll try anything at this point. Sorry dont mean to bash tekno.like I said in prev post.version 1 was awesome.
This is the first truck I have owned that I have started to tinker with setups so I'm not a pro by no means, but I'm running pink springs all the way around and f35/r30. I also moved the rear hubs all the way forward. Everything else is stock. When I changed my springs I started to run into the nose diving issue off big jumps, but narrowed it down to chassis slap because of low ride height and the added rear skid plate. After the springs broke in my ride height changed a lot

Maybe when I put fresh oil in my diffs I will try a lighter in the rear and see what that does. Thanks Cain
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:58 AM   #1640
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yeah, I was very surprised how much traction I had on the rear when I went to 2K. and I only tried it as I was at the motodome race early in year when it was cold. Had all kinds of traction issues but after I made that change on a tip, it really planted the rear end.

I only went away from it as I had the BCE chassis and hear it helped there.

To me at least, my SCT410 seemed to like lighter diff fluids. 5-5-2 was what I was liking if I recall correctly for loose stuff.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:46 PM   #1641
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unless something changed on the shocks, I liked the serpent bladders on the V1. I wonder if your issue was too much uptravel and the shaft bumped the bladder if I am understanding right what you saw.
Could be, you think some kind of fuel tube spacer to stop the shaft from going into the bladder would help? Haven't had any issues with the other 3 shocks.
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:08 PM   #1642
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Id chalk that up to a fluke.
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:48 PM   #1643
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Its a basic upgrade, geometry only. If you want the lighten stuff, new pills, etc., you have to add those. I think I read the original thought was that people already had some of the lighten stuff and also you could upgrade the other stuff over time.
The drop down item gives you 1 part at a discounted price. Kinda of a little bonus.
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:02 PM   #1644
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
I've made some changes, and I believe I'm pretty close. Truck was awesome last weekend. 450/350 black spring front, green spring rear, and lower shock mount out on all 4 corners. -1° front -2° rear. And 7g of lead in the rear. Other than those changes, I'm stock. Truck is awesome. Now I'm just doing minor tweaks from there. (rx8 gen2, pro4 4000kv, 17t pinion)

Couple people have suggested to use pink springs all around. I haven't tried that yet. As far as huge jumps, you can't just throttle all the way up to it & over, she no like that.
Dang, 17t pinion,,any heat issues?
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Old 07-21-2015, 10:24 PM   #1645
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Default First Impressions of the SCT410.3, Comparing to the SCT410.1, and Setup Questions

Hello All, This is my first post on the new .3 Thread. Just wanted to post my two cents worth on the new truck, and hopefully receive some input as well.

I drove the SCT410.1 for approximately 15 months that was almost completely stock (except for shock pistons, springs, and shock/diff oils), always on med to med-high bite indoor clay tracks. After a lot of testing, tuning, and experimenting, I was able to get the truck very fast and consistent, and I was able to make the unstoppable nosedive a rarity. I recently built the SCT410.3, put the same electronics & gearing in it as my old truck, set the setup very close to the stock kit setup (with the only changes being Emulsion build shocks, 25wt. Rear oil, Ride Height 23.5mm front and 22mm rear, and changing the inner camber-link mount positions to inside low hole [#3] on the front and inside middle hole on the rear [#2]) took it to the track and below are the things I noticed right away:
  1. Before hitting the track I noticed that the differentials feel WAY lighter than my old truck when running the same weight oils. I never ran higher than 10K in any diff in my old truck, as this would give noticeable resistance on whichever end it was placed. With this truck (running 7/7/5), the diffs filled with 7K spin like my old truck (or my other 1/8 scale vehicles) would when they were filled with 3K, and the diff filled with 5K feels like my old truck would with 2K or lighter! I am not exactly sure why this is, but the diffs spin much more freely than I have ever felt before on any of my 1/8 vehicles. And yes, I am 100% sure that I filled them properly, with no air pockets, and as full of fluid as possible…
  2. On the bench with the battery in and body on and doing drop tests, the whole truck moves very smoothly, with the compression and rebound strokes being very noticeable. To visualize this, imagine a spring-mass system oscillating at its resonant frequency. Obviously, this truck was dampened and did not continue to oscillate; but its motion and fluidity as it moved through the compression & rebound strokes mimicked the spring-mass system (when compared to my old truck, which would land from a drop test like a flat pancake, seeming to instantly land at its set ride-height, with shock compression and rebound being minimal at most).
  3. The acceleration and top speed of the truck were both greatly increased. The truck is also MUCH quieter than my old truck (which was starting to sound like a blender due to it being a little old and worn).
  4. On the track, the suspension (and the truck itself) move A LOT more than my old truck (due to the softer springs & dampening of course); however, after I got use to the way the truck was moving (more-or-less ignored it) and just drove it, I feel the truck handled very well, and was easy to drive fast. Surprising to me, even with all that suspension movement, I had to really push the truck to get it to traction roll.
  5. On jumps with sharper faces (or even on jumps with minimally aggressive lips) the truck required to be under acceleration up the face of the jump, followed immediately by a peg of the throttle when the truck gets in air to prevent it from doing the unstoppable nose-dive. Certain track layouts do not always allow for one to do this since they have a sharp corner directly after the landing of the jump, including my home tracks current layout. Having to keep the truck accelerating up the face makes it nearly impossible to hold a tight line and be fast, and is consequently unacceptable
    NOTE: I did try going up to 32.5wt. oil and Pink Springs (2.28lbs./in. [TKR6030]) in the rear. This did seem to help, but was not a drastic change, and did not cure the issue.

Questions:
a) Differentials: Has anyone else noticed or felt like the differentials are much freer feeling than the weight of the oil that was placed in them? To counter this, are you compensating with thicker diff oils? Or is 5K going to make the truck handle like 5K, even if it does feel like 2K when spinning the tires on the stand? Maybe this is why Lutz is running 15/15/10 in his truck?? I always thought that was very thick, but after feeling these diffs, it makes more sense…

b) Droop: If I am not mistaken, I believe there are essentially two droop measurements: one is the shock droop when measure with the shock body off of the truck, and the other is the droop of the A-Arm when mounted on the truck. Which droop value is the kit (or the set-up sheets) referring too? For most cases, whichever of these two measurements is the smallest will end up being the limiting factor in the trucks actual droop value, as one prevents the other from extending all the way. What is the proper way to measure droop? Measuring the droop of the shock while off the truck (which is relatively simple and yields consistent results), or measuring the droop of the A-arm after the shock has been mounted (which is much trickier to get an accurate measurement)? First off, if you are measuring center of mount hole to center of shock eyelet, the droop value WILL change depending on which mount holes you are measuring from... To me, this does not make sense to record a set-up value in this way, as if the shock can extend well past the droop of the A-Arm, the “Measured” droop value on the truck can change depending on which mount holes you measure from.
Example: Let’s say the shock measures 110mm from center of eyelet on shock cap to center of eyelet on the shock shaft rod end when off the truck. On the truck, the droop screws are limiting the travel of the A-Arms such that the droop measurement 105mm when measuring from the center of the mount hole on tower to center of mount hole on arm when mounted on the inner-tower hole (#4) & inner-arm hole; whereas, if my shock mount locations were the outer hole on the tower (#1) & the inner-arm mount hole locations, the droop now measures 108mm center-center. In actuality, the droop of the truck HAS NOT CHANGED, as it is being controlled by the droop screw which is limiting the arms downward travel.
In this Example, what would be the correct droop measurement? The original shock extension of 110mm (which it is never extended to when mounted on the truck), when measuring center-to-center from the inner-tower location (105mm), or when measuring from the outer tower location (108mm)? Or is the correct droop measurement performed another way altogether?
With that being said I feel that the 118mm rear droop value for the stock setup is very short. I am measuring the rear droop (measured center-center of the mount holes used on the truck) to be ~120mm, and it already looks like extension of the rear arms have been significantly shortened. I have tried going even as small as .5mm shorter (like ¼ turn of the droop screws, Measuring ~119.5mm rear droop), and I notice a dramatic change in the trucks handling, especially jumping. The nose-diving becomes unstoppable, I can’t hit any “speed bump/jump” on throttle no matter what the jumps lip profile is, and the truck feels very unstable. I cannot fathom how anyone could run the droop lower than I have tried and have a drivable truck. My first assumption is that I am measuring the droop wrong, so any comments or advice on this measurement, I would greatly appreciate it!

c) Nose Diving: What shock/spring settings would you recommend (or other setup changes) to help prevent this nose-dive issue. Again, I solved it on my old truck by making the truck VERY stiff, but I do not think that was the best nor the correct route, as there were still handling issues present, with traction rolling being at the top of the list. So I am hoping for some potential solutions that are more detailed than “put the setup you had on your old truck on your .3”. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!
All in all, I am very happy and very impressed with the new Tekno SCT410.3. Once I find the correct setup which will stop the nose-diving, this truck will be deadly! Hell, even with the nose dive issue being present, and it only being my second time driving the truck, I still qualified 2nd and finished 2nd in the A-Main in 4X4 SCT class at the JConcepts Indoor National Series Race held at Outback Raceway at AMainHobbies! I can’t wait to keep adjusting the trucks setup to make it better and better!

I have attached the last setup I ran on my .3 along with one of my older setup sheets for the SCT410.1 as a reference for comparing to the setup on my .3. Though it was not most current setup, it was very close to it, and resulted in a fast consistent truck that would very rarely nose-dive.

Thanks for any and all replies, and I apologize for the long message!
-Cameron
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Last edited by SixFeetDeep; 07-22-2015 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Cleared up the writing in the example given to explain droop measurements to try and make it more clear
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:23 PM   #1646
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Its a basic upgrade, geometry only. If you want the lighten stuff, new pills, etc., you have to add those. I think I read the original thought was that people already had some of the lighten stuff and also you could upgrade the other stuff over time.
Right on
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Old 07-21-2015, 11:36 PM   #1647
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Dang, 17t pinion,,any heat issues?
I run a HW with a 4000kv motor and use a 19 pinion on big tracks. Temps are 150 or below
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:33 AM   #1648
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Truck shares mounting holes with the SCTE. You may have to drill the body.
the proline f150 body is clean cut without mounting holes?
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:02 AM   #1649
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the proline f150 body is clean cut without mounting holes?
Which body are you looking at? The PL bodies come trimmed, but not drilled.
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Old 07-22-2015, 09:38 AM   #1650
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Which body are you looking at? The PL bodies come trimmed, but not drilled.

http://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/...vt-clear-body/


this body.
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