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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-06-2015, 08:28 AM   #1531
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By using the outer holes, the piston speed increases because the leverage angle changes on the shock. This makes the smaller 8 hole shock have too much pack in high speed sections. You would have to run a lighter oil to achieve the same dampening effect. The larger holes allow more oil to pass through, but maintain just enough pack in the shock. It is more suited to outdoor or tracks that can get rough.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:45 AM   #1532
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Originally Posted by Wease View Post
I'm running the exact same set-up; I'm curious what oil weights and springs you are running? I'm using the stock pink spring in the front, but have gone up to the green rear spring. I'm running 375cst front and 275cst rear and I still think the suspension is too soft as I'm getting the nose down off of certain jumps. I think I need to go up in oil weight. My EB48.2 uses the 6x1.5 pistons with 450cst front and 350cst rear, but its a heavier vehicle. I'm using the 2nd shortest camber link which seems to be a good balance of keeping the rear end behind the truck on power, yet allows the truck to rotate through turns. I'm just not happy with how it jumps and lands.

And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
Stock front setup, Green rears and AE 27.5 oil. You can really change flight attitude with how you approach the jump. Ive found that if its kicking over on a jump, I can roll the throttle to the jump, and as soon as the truck leaves the ground just blip it to full. Usually hitting the jump at full speed is just too much. One tip I can give you on the collars, take an xacto blade and rough up the threads a bit. Get the plastic to fray and it will cause it to bind up a bit more.
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:28 AM   #1533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
By using the outer holes, the piston speed increases because the leverage angle changes on the shock. This makes the smaller 8 hole shock have too much pack in high speed sections. You would have to run a lighter oil to achieve the same dampening effect. The larger holes allow more oil to pass through, but maintain just enough pack in the shock. It is more suited to outdoor or tracks that can get rough.
I have the stock pistons in both my Eb48sl and my 410.3, I run on medium to high bite indoor clay and both are working pretty good. Do you feel the stock pistons are most likely the best choice for indoor high bite or would you play with something else?
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:58 AM   #1534
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
Stock front setup, Green rears and AE 27.5 oil. You can really change flight attitude with how you approach the jump. Ive found that if its kicking over on a jump, I can roll the throttle to the jump, and as soon as the truck leaves the ground just blip it to full. Usually hitting the jump at full speed is just too much. One tip I can give you on the collars, take an xacto blade and rough up the threads a bit. Get the plastic to fray and it will cause it to bind up a bit more.
Okay. I'm running pinks all around, 400f/300r and 10x1.2 pistons. Running greens all around 350-400f/300r and 6x1.5 using outside holes on the arms should be a better setup? Softer at low speeds and small/rough sections, but enough pack for the big jumps.
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:56 AM   #1535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wease View Post
I'm running the exact same set-up; I'm curious what oil weights and springs you are running? I'm using the stock pink spring in the front, but have gone up to the green rear spring. I'm running 375cst front and 275cst rear and I still think the suspension is too soft as I'm getting the nose down off of certain jumps. I think I need to go up in oil weight. My EB48.2 uses the 6x1.5 pistons with 450cst front and 350cst rear, but its a heavier vehicle. I'm using the 2nd shortest camber link which seems to be a good balance of keeping the rear end behind the truck on power, yet allows the truck to rotate through turns. I'm just not happy with how it jumps and lands.

And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
Pink isn't stock. Stock is Green front/Black Rear.
Pink is one stiffer than Black. And one softer than Green.
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:02 AM   #1536
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I've never had an issue with my collars moving at all. Mine definitely aren't loose.

You guys are saying "outside hole". That really doesn't say anything, unless you state where your shocks are mounted on the tower. Outside hole on the arm for one person, may be working great... But for somebody else it may not. It all depends on the inside tower mount in conjunction with the Arm hole.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:17 PM   #1537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
I have the stock pistons in both my Eb48sl and my 410.3, I run on medium to high bite indoor clay and both are working pretty good. Do you feel the stock pistons are most likely the best choice for indoor high bite or would you play with something else?
If you feel the truck is good for you and the track you run on, no need to change. But if you like to play with settings by all means try a new set of pistons. You might find something you like better.

Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Okay. I'm running pinks all around, 400f/300r and 10x1.2 pistons. Running greens all around 350-400f/300r and 6x1.5 using outside holes on the arms should be a better setup? Softer at low speeds and small/rough sections, but enough pack for the big jumps.
The bigger 6x pistons work best when you are having fast pistons speeds, but still require a soft low speed settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
I've never had an issue with my collars moving at all. Mine definitely aren't loose.

You guys are saying "outside hole". That really doesn't say anything, unless you state where your shocks are mounted on the tower. Outside hole on the arm for one person, may be working great... But for somebody else it may not. It all depends on the inside tower mount in conjunction with the Arm hole.
It does actually. If you keep the same tower location, going to the outer hole on tha arm will do 2 things. 1 it will make the shock feel like it has a firmer spring on it, not as much as going up to a higher spring rate, but has a firmer feel. 2 it increases your shock shaft/piston speed within the shock. This will increase pack iat all vehicle speeds. Tower location sets more hoe progressive the shock feel, like if they feel like they firm up a bit as the suspension compresses.
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Old 07-06-2015, 08:54 PM   #1538
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Did you get any of this sorted out yet? You need to set the ESC to forward with reverse delay, your current setting is FWD, BRK w/immediate reverse.
Didn't mess with it lately, been busy running the truck. I'm wanting to keep troubleshooting it, but don't have another car to plug it into. Not wanting to tear out mg tekin to check it.
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Old 07-07-2015, 05:43 AM   #1539
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Before the kit arrives does anyone have a screw list for the 410.3?

thanks
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:29 AM   #1540
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Originally Posted by Millsy97 View Post
Before the kit arrives does anyone have a screw list for the 410.3?

thanks
I don't have a list of the screws but if you look in the manual you can see all of the screws and where they go. If you're putting together an aluminum or titanium kit viewing the manual is the way to do it because you can decide which screws to keep steel (the high stress ones).

There is a list for the SCT410 (not the .3) but I haven't checked it against the new kit so there might be something extra or missing. I pulled it from the first post of the SCT410 thread-

From MattP-
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.

Tekno Screw List:

Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
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Old 07-07-2015, 12:18 PM   #1541
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I don't have a list of the screws but if you look in the manual you can see all of the screws and where they go. If you're putting together an aluminum or titanium kit viewing the manual is the way to do it because you can decide which screws to keep steel (the high stress ones).

There is a list for the SCT410 (not the .3) but I haven't checked it against the new kit so there might be something extra or missing. I pulled it from the first post of the SCT410 thread-

From MattP-
I just made a list of all the screws, washers and nuts needed to convert a Tekno ride over to all aluminum screws. I listed the stock replacement Tekno screw part number first with details beside each. Only screws I did not list for an aluminum swap are the diff screws holding the ring/spur on to the diff. That's a high load bearing screw and steel is a better choice there.

Tekno Screw List:

Tekno #1523 3x10mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1529 3x20mm Cap Head 20
Tekno #1341 4x6mm Flat Head 6
Tekno #1525 3x14mm Cap Head 18
Tekno #1524 3x12mm Cap Head 10
Tekno #1333 3x40mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1327 3x16mm Flat Head 4
Tekno #1443 4x10mm Button Head 11
Tekno #1522 3x8mm Cap Head 9
Tekno #1445 4x14mm Button Head 6
Tekno #1447 4x16mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1401 3x6mm Button Head 8
Tekno #1448 4x18mm Button Head 2
Tekno #1343 4x10mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1322 3x8mm Flat Head 11
Tekno #1344 4x12mm Flat Head 12
Tekno #1346 4x15mm Flat Head 2
Tekno #1325 3x14mm Flat Head 3
Tekno #1407 3x16mm Button Head 1
3x8mm Washer 20
4x9mm Washer 2
3mm Locknuts 20
3mm Flanged Locknuts 8
Thank you, about to get some spare screws ordered.
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Old 07-07-2015, 01:22 PM   #1542
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Well i put pink front an back an used these for the bottom mounts TKR1240
For shocks ,an put a new aluminum horn on so we will see how it works
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:55 PM   #1543
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Hey guys, thought I would go on and post this short video. It was a practice day working on tightening the truck up for outdoors. Just changed to 6x1.5, stock front and green rear springs, 35/30 AE oil.

http://youtu.be/IQdmtvOrkD4
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Old 07-08-2015, 03:58 AM   #1544
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Hey guys, thought I would go on and post this short video. It was a practice day working on tightening the truck up for outdoors. Just changed to 6x1.5, stock front and green rear springs, 35/30 AE oil.

http://youtu.be/IQdmtvOrkD4
How did it feel? Were shocks in outer hole? Looked pretty good
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Old 07-08-2015, 07:52 AM   #1545
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How did it feel? Were shocks in outer hole? Looked pretty good
Not sure on shock location at that time, I was moving things around a bit. The green springs took out some roll and kept the truck from hooking mid and corner exit. The pistons took some pack out and helped through the bumps. Haven't got to try it on larger jumps though.
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