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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 07-05-2015, 06:38 AM   #1516
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Since were talking setups, I raced today and did the best ever and the truck felt great. Even let a Losi guy drive it and he liked it alot and was really fast on it. I'm still searching for a little more rear traction. I'm wondering if a 3000 rear weight may help over the 5000 I'm currently running. Here is mg set up.


Medina RC Raceway, hard packed and dusty. More technical with jumps and turns.
Proline Blockades work the best for me.
775 front to rear.
Black springs.
35 weight losi in front, 32.5 in rear.
Standard droop.
25mm front and rear ride.
-3 camber in front and rear.

Want a little more rear traction, i have more steering than I need.

Mark
Could move the rear hubs forward a bit and test it, may be all you need if you feel your close.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:54 AM   #1517
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Could move the rear hubs forward a bit and test it, may be all you need if you feel your close.
Wont moving my rear hubs forward shorten the wheelbase which would give me more steering? I don't have my Hudy Setup Guide handy to check
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:06 AM   #1518
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Wont moving my rear hubs forward shorten the wheelbase which would give me more steering? I don't have my Hudy Setup Guide handy to check
You'd be moving weight towards the back: if you move the rear axles forward... then you get a few more mm of the 'butt' of your truck hanging out back

You could also try reducing front camber to 0 or -1: sometimes it's not that you don't have enough rear traction.. it's that you have too much on the front and that steering authority can force the back end around (you said you had more than enough steering... so take some away). Dragonfueled is suggesting the same change with swaybar alterations.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:19 AM   #1519
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Originally Posted by HoldDaMayo View Post
I've just taken my new SCT410.3 to the track and it's very good, but I have one minor issue, when it jumps, a lot of times it seems to throw the ass end up so hard that sometimes I can't even compensate with throttle. Anyone else have this same experience? Any tips on how to adjust my setup to help give it a more neutral launch? My truck setup is very close to stock with 35wt front, 30wt rear, 5/5/3 diff oil and stock camber/toe/anti-squat/etc. The track I run on is extremely loose, so hopefully none of the changes I need to make will affect handling as the truck is running like it's on rails right now, really nice.

Thanks!
Youre problem is most likely chassis slap on take off. Try going to a higher pack piston like 8x1.3 or 6x1.5

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Its just nice to know what set ups the pros are running, and have a reference. I've been experimenting nonstop since day 1.
Since the release of the truck Tekno has been very busy trying to get the new kits out. They have also been prepping for the national level events with Lutz and Bornhorst. More will be posted once they are submitted.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Yes, I have this problem too. With how soft the rear end is box stock... You wouldn't think that would be a problem. On short & steep faced jumps, I have BAD nose dive issues. The higher it throws my truck, the worse it nosedives.

It happens so fast, I don't even have time to react with throttle..
And when I do save it, I have to hold it completely pinned mid air and it STILL barely lands. Normal, & small jumps its fine. Just high peaky ones I hate.

I changed out all 4 pistons, and also went up to 30wt oil in the rear from 25. Hoping this slows down the rebound and will stop the nosediving.

Make sure your wheels aren't rubbing inside. Or if you have on mud guards on the rear A Arms, make sure they aren't hitting your wheels. This will cause your drivetrain to stop rotating & cause nosediving. Also, make sure your drag brake is OFF and your ABS is off too. And try adjusting your throttle trim forward some to keep the tires rolling mid-air. One more thing, if your pinion is meshed too tight to your spur, it'll put unnecessary drag onto the drivetrain which can also cause unwanted nosediving.
The rebound doesn't cause the nose to drop, its the chassis slapping the ground in the rear. Im guessing if you look at the last 1/2 inch of your chassis in the rear its pretty worn compared to the rest of it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
Since were talking setups, I raced today and did the best ever and the truck felt great. Even let a Losi guy drive it and he liked it alot and was really fast on it. I'm still searching for a little more rear traction. I'm wondering if a 3000 rear weight may help over the 5000 I'm currently running. Here is mg set up.


Medina RC Raceway, hard packed and dusty. More technical with jumps and turns.
Proline Blockades work the best for me.
775 front to rear.
Black springs.
35 weight losi in front, 32.5 in rear.
Standard droop.
25mm front and rear ride.
-3 camber in front and rear.

Want a little more rear traction, i have more steering than I need.

Mark
Thinner oil will increase diff action. Are you searching for more on or off power? I would try taking some camber out of the front, and maybe try limiting droop a couple MMs.
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Last edited by Hoese37; 07-05-2015 at 09:47 AM.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:23 AM   #1520
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What is toe? front to rear?

I found using the +1.5 toe brace in the rear with the pucks in the mid helped me most from an indoor track to outdoor as well.

I also agree with taking some camber outta the front. that's the easiest/quickest way to find out with no $$ outta pocket.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:30 AM   #1521
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Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Thanks. Lost both ebay bids for the basher 410. Gave up on that and this is for my dhk Hunter which is a surprisingly great value. Tekno 410.3 out handles 2x but the the Hunter could actually race a novice race with some upgrades. My stock 410.3 setup is nosediving on me. As a newbie having a hard time understanding the lingo on the tekno thread
What youre getting is called chassis slap. When going over a jump your suspension is soft to the point that it cant react quick enough and the chassis bottoms out on the jump face. This causes it to buck up in the air. This can be fixed by going up in shock oil, and/or changing pistons.

When changing pistons you are adjusting the pressure inside the shocks. This is referred to as "pack". The pistons can only pass through the oil as quickly as the oil can flow though the holes. I it can pass to easily, the shocks wont support the weight of the truck. A piston with more pack will create more pressure. The faster the shock packs up, the firmer it becomes.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:42 AM   #1522
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Thx for the help! Any recommendation on rear shock oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
What youre getting is called chassis slap. When going over a jump your suspension is soft to the point that it cant react quick enough and the chassis bottoms out on the jump face. This causes it to buck up in the air. This can be fixed by going up in shock oil, and/or changing pistons.

When changing pistons you are adjusting the pressure inside the shocks. This is referred to as "pack". The pistons can only pass through the oil as quickly as the oil can flow though the holes. I it can pass to easily, the shocks wont support the weight of the truck. A piston with more pack will create more pressure. The faster the shock packs up, the firmer it becomes.
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Old 07-05-2015, 11:13 AM   #1523
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Originally Posted by Millsy97 View Post
Hello, I've just ordered my SCT410.3 from AMain as they have 50 dollars off then another 10% which is a massive saving compared to the UK shops. With the truck, hobbywing sct esc and 4 sets of wheels it was around 50 less than the UK price!

Before I start building it I was wondering whats the best way to build the shocks, I'll only be driving the car on AstroTurf as that's what most tracks are in the UK.

Are there any out the box upgrade that are a must?

I've seen some people run the mechanical break and clutch, what are the benefits of this and how the hell would I set that up?

I'm looking forward to getting this truck built and getting it on the track
Any one?
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:11 PM   #1524
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I would just build it the way the book states. They recommed using the bladder. And buy a 15,16,17 pinions. Buy a variety of springs, buy some 25-30-35 shock oils & start fine tuning with time. That's really all you can do. Everybody likes different things, and every track is different. Just have to experiment.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:14 PM   #1525
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Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Thx for the help! Any recommendation on rear shock oil?
I was running 25 Losi oil in the rear with pink springs. I went up to 30, raced today and liked it. Most people run 35 in the front it seems. The rear I've seen many different weights used, mostly in the 25-35 range.

Next race I'm going to try 30/30 in front and back with black front springs & Pink Rears. I am running Red CSI V port pistons.
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:32 AM   #1526
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Default Pistons

Has anyone tried the 8x1.3 or 6x1.5 pistons? I'm wondering how they worked. Also, from the setup sheets posted on Tekno's website, they have tried 8x1.4 and 6x1.6 pistons. These have more hole area than the 10x1.2. Curious as to why they went with more hole area which to me says less pack.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:04 AM   #1527
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Has anyone tried the 8x1.3 or 6x1.5 pistons? I'm wondering how they worked. Also, from the setup sheets posted on Tekno's website, they have tried 8x1.4 and 6x1.6 pistons. These have more hole area than the 10x1.2. Curious as to why they went with more hole area which to me says less pack.
I run the 6x1.5 and use the outer most holes. works very well in the truck. Keeps the suspension soft and light at slow speeds, but has enough pack on big jumps to keep from chassis slapping.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:11 AM   #1528
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Originally Posted by Riflebuilder View Post
I replaced mg HW SCT Xerun combo (4000kv) with this Tekin set because I was wanting to get more serious about racing. I kept the motor, but the esc is not that great in my opinion. I still can't get it to link up with my pc, it kept shutting down at the end of 5 minute heats and the castle BEC didn't fix it. I also don't like how you have one stroke of the throttle forward for a brake, the second one goes into reverse.

Lastly it kept going in and out of sensors mode.
Did you get any of this sorted out yet? You need to set the ESC to forward with reverse delay, your current setting is FWD, BRK w/immediate reverse.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:15 AM   #1529
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
I run the 6x1.5 and use the outer most holes. works very well in the truck. Keeps the suspension soft and light at slow speeds, but has enough pack on big jumps to keep from chassis slapping.
Thanks. Help me understand say 6x1.5 versus 8x1.3. The total hole area is about the same. Will the 6x1.5 be softer at lower speeds than the 8x1.3 and provide just as much pack on the big jumps? I noticed everyone tends to use the outer holes with the 6 hole pistons. Why is that? Do they not provide enough pack to use the inner holes? My understanding is the using the outer holes can increase your turn radius so I'm trying to understand my tradeoffs. Thanks.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:17 AM   #1530
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
I run the 6x1.5 and use the outer most holes. works very well in the truck. Keeps the suspension soft and light at slow speeds, but has enough pack on big jumps to keep from chassis slapping.
I'm running the exact same set-up; I'm curious what oil weights and springs you are running? I'm using the stock pink spring in the front, but have gone up to the green rear spring. I'm running 375cst front and 275cst rear and I still think the suspension is too soft as I'm getting the nose down off of certain jumps. I think I need to go up in oil weight. My EB48.2 uses the 6x1.5 pistons with 450cst front and 350cst rear, but its a heavier vehicle. I'm using the 2nd shortest camber link which seems to be a good balance of keeping the rear end behind the truck on power, yet allows the truck to rotate through turns. I'm just not happy with how it jumps and lands.

And those stock plastic shock collar/pre-load adjusters are junk. They need an o-ring on the inside or something. They spin soo freely that they move during a race.
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