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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: rustyus
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 01-07-2017, 10:06 AM
  #4621  
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I figured it out, thanks

Last edited by weedsnager; 01-07-2017 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TAW
Has anyone had an issue getting good gear mesh with a HW 4700 and a 14 or 15t pinion. Seems I can only get it good with a 16t. Running on a small indoor track and really wanted to go down to 14 but the teeth barely touch.
The mount will accommodate down to a 14 tooth pinion but you'll have to either remove or sand down the center brace for the motor to fit. A 15 should fit without modifications.
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:16 PM
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delete

Last edited by weedsnager; 01-07-2017 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 01-07-2017, 02:20 PM
  #4624  
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For the stock setup it has 4 washers on the bottom. I don't see that this does anything. Is it just a place to store them?

[IMG][/IMG]


Originally Posted by justpoet
This is referring to the ball studs on the spindle. You can adjust the amount of bump steer by moving washers to/from below the ball stud, or flipping the ball stud over to get the ball portion even lower.
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Old 01-07-2017, 04:20 PM
  #4625  
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Originally Posted by JoeRC123
For the stock setup it has 4 washers on the bottom. I don't see that this does anything. Is it just a place to store them?

[IMG][/IMG]
Yes and no. You can remove the washers entirely if they're not between the ball stud and the item in question (steering rack or spindle), and it won't change setup. However, without them, you may find the end of the screw rubbing on things, so you'd want to use a shorter screw then too. Leaving them stacked up makes this not needed, though I personally do it anyway and switch to a button head for the spindle side so that wheel flex doesn't let the wheel hit the top of the screw.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:48 PM
  #4626  
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Originally Posted by justpoet
Yes and no. You can remove the washers entirely if they're not between the ball stud and the item in question (steering rack or spindle), and it won't change setup. However, without them, you may find the end of the screw rubbing on things, so you'd want to use a shorter screw then too. Leaving them stacked up makes this not needed, though I personally do it anyway and switch to a button head for the spindle side so that wheel flex doesn't let the wheel hit the top of the screw.
Thanks for the explanation. I just thought it was weird to put 4 washers that do nothing but it makes sense after you explained it.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:48 PM
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Update...I installed 2 of the steering stop washers (new setup sheet calls for 3) and that took care of the loose end on power coming out of corners.
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Old 01-07-2017, 07:51 PM
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Update...I installed 2 of the steering stop washers (new setup sheet calls for 3) and that took care of the loose end on power coming out of corners. The setup was pretty good.
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Old 01-08-2017, 09:45 AM
  #4629  
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tell it again....haha
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by jason07
tell it again....haha
Just saw that...lol. My bad.
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Old 01-08-2017, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by qstorm777
Update...I installed 2 of the steering stop washers (new setup sheet calls for 3) and that took care of the loose end on power coming out of corners. The setup was pretty good.
Ran my SCT410.3 using the Jesse Munn setup with a few changes:
- Xray Gray Progressive springs (lower ride height and they worked well on my heavier Durango DESC10 so figured give them a try, especially as i don't have yellow springs lol) Range on these are

#358174 FRONT C = 0.7 to 0.8 lbs/in = 3.997 to 4.568
#358274 BACK C = 0.5 to 0.6 lbs/in = 2.855 to 3.426

- PT racing oil 700 Front, 600 rear
- Camber -2 all around
- Emulsion shocks
- Proline Ion tires and Proline Primes, both MC compound (tried as sets front and rear)
- chassis braces front, middle, rear

My impressions are that this is a very good base setup for the carpet we run here. We are limited to non hard pin tires which the carpet tires would fit, so that is why we run clay compounds as described. Basically ran ions as they were cheap and wanted to burn down the pins. I tried a set of primes from a buddy at the track to see if it would take away a bit of the bite I was experiencing causing traction rolling.

I have thought more about it after the race that I am not sure what the settings are on my steering range stops, however, when I initially had the vehicle going, I had my radio settings changed to fit my daughters driving style better and forgot to change it back initially, so it had the dual rate turned really down. I am assuming the steering stops are in essence doing the same thing.

If that is the case, I am wondering if the traction rolling I experienced could be partially due to that. As pins would most likely bite more than what I am seeing with a slick style tire, I am thinking the setup would handle the roll issues.

Anyway, my next course of action outside of another set of tires I am thinking would be:

- going to yellow springs (or equivalent rates) after comparing the rates to what the xrays offer. I hate to cut some springs though, maybe hot bodies springs like the old days would be an option at least for the fronts as they are already short and close in rates I think to some of the teknos.

- Adjusting roll center at the rear hingepin level

Based on this:
Raising Roll Center
Lower inside camber link position at brace/tower
Raise outside camber link position at hub/caster block
Lower hub/caster block mounting hole at arm
Raise the inside arm mounting location
Shorten camber link
I am thinking of going with:

* going with HRC rear hubs
* shorter link (this is what my previous carpet setup had going on)
* Raising the insert arm location by:
1. Raising position on C-Block and D-Block (Will probably start with C-Block)

How does all that sound?

outside of that vehicle is very close

Last edited by Cain; 01-08-2017 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 01-09-2017, 06:21 PM
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I ran the updated EB48.4 Ackerman parts using most of the indoor/outdoor setup on the Tekno page http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...oor%20Dirt.pdf (I ran with different pistons and fluid than mentioned) and was pretty happy with how consistent it was.

I have struggled with my 410.3 in the past as it would work great and then the next time out with no changes it would drive totally different. It stayed very consistent and the handling was improved this past weekend, hopefully I'll be able to dial it in even more and it will remain consistent with the new .4 ackerman parts.
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Old 01-10-2017, 06:50 AM
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thats good. Its nice to see tekno offering improvements that improves consistency and keep moving forward with setups etc. Nice change from what I was used to on another platform where you were on your own basically.
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Cain
Ran my SCT410.3 using the Jesse Munn setup with a few changes:

- PT racing oil 700 Front, 600 rear
- Camber -2 all around
- Emulsion shocks
- Proline Ion tires and Proline Primes, both MC compound (tried as sets front and rear)
- chassis braces front, middle, rear

My impressions are that this is a very good base setup for the carpet we run here. We are limited to non hard pin tires which the carpet tires would fit, so that is why we run clay compounds as described. Basically ran ions as they were cheap and wanted to burn down the pins. I tried a set of primes from a buddy at the track to see if it would take away a bit of the bite I was experiencing causing traction rolling.

If that is the case, I am wondering if the traction rolling I experienced could be partially due to that. As pins would most likely bite more than what I am seeing with a slick style tire, I am thinking the setup would handle the roll issues.
This is great info cause a indoor off road turf track just opened up. I have been debating about getting PL carpet pin tires; one of my racing buddies prefers PL ions (MC).

Usually when my sct is traction rolling I take away some droop in the FR and RR. Do you remember your droop setting or did you try adjusting it?

What was your ride height the shock oil you were using?
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Old 01-10-2017, 07:48 AM
  #4635  
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Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT
This is great info cause a indoor off road turf track just opened up. I have been debating about getting PL carpet pin tires; one of my racing buddies prefers PL ions (MC).

Usually when my sct is traction rolling I take away some droop in the FR and RR. Do you remember your droop setting or did you try adjusting it?

What was your ride height the shock oil you were using?
The PL pinpoints take a beating and get good use on turf. Have you guys tried the electrical tape trick on the front tires?
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