219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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05-08-2016, 04:29 PM
#3601
05-08-2016, 04:52 PM
#3602
Ok well after an hour of trying I cant seem to load the pics I took. I did the ESC mod just like Lowes48. Here are the numbers only thing different is my lipo is slid all the way forward as it just weighs in at 320g.
LF=754g RF=710g
LR=724g RR=758g
Its close to even. And at least the two heaviest and the two lightest tires are across from eachother making it even when turning. Raced it last night and it is a lot more balanced. I can add a little weight to RF and get it to 724g to match the LR and those two would be as balanced as the LF and the RR. I weighed the receiver box with the lid antenna and the screws and it is 30g. So stock that RR and RF have a good amount of weight. And when you do the battery tray mod you do move weight to the rear but it also goes over to the RR and the LF becomes the tire with the least amount of weight and the RR with the most. You dont want your lightest tire and you heaviest tire across from each other like that. At an angle the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. And the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. That way stomping on the throttle or jamin into a turn you are 50/50 at an angle. If this makes since cool if not I dont think I can explain it any better. Truck drove more balanced and on a 16 second lap time I picked up at least .5 of a second. And thats a lot for the first time out with it. We have 10 or 12 trucks that run indoor high bite every Friday night. And the top 6 me included are only .3 to .5 a second between all of us. I had first for a while got nervous and lost it. But the truck for me anyway is better with the ESC back there. And when I soldered it up this time I keep the wires long. I could put the truck back to the way it was in under an hour. Just thought I would post what I found out...
I do run a Savox 1258tg and it weighs just 56 or so grams. So that is why my RF is a little light I think. I do have my receiver and lap timer and everything mounted like the pic Lowes48 posted.
If anyone wants to know I used a G-Force scale like this.... http://www.teameamotorsports.com/ind...product_id=131
LF=754g RF=710g
LR=724g RR=758g
Its close to even. And at least the two heaviest and the two lightest tires are across from eachother making it even when turning. Raced it last night and it is a lot more balanced. I can add a little weight to RF and get it to 724g to match the LR and those two would be as balanced as the LF and the RR. I weighed the receiver box with the lid antenna and the screws and it is 30g. So stock that RR and RF have a good amount of weight. And when you do the battery tray mod you do move weight to the rear but it also goes over to the RR and the LF becomes the tire with the least amount of weight and the RR with the most. You dont want your lightest tire and you heaviest tire across from each other like that. At an angle the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. And the RF and LR should have close to the same weight. That way stomping on the throttle or jamin into a turn you are 50/50 at an angle. If this makes since cool if not I dont think I can explain it any better. Truck drove more balanced and on a 16 second lap time I picked up at least .5 of a second. And thats a lot for the first time out with it. We have 10 or 12 trucks that run indoor high bite every Friday night. And the top 6 me included are only .3 to .5 a second between all of us. I had first for a while got nervous and lost it. But the truck for me anyway is better with the ESC back there. And when I soldered it up this time I keep the wires long. I could put the truck back to the way it was in under an hour. Just thought I would post what I found out...
I do run a Savox 1258tg and it weighs just 56 or so grams. So that is why my RF is a little light I think. I do have my receiver and lap timer and everything mounted like the pic Lowes48 posted.
If anyone wants to know I used a G-Force scale like this.... http://www.teameamotorsports.com/ind...product_id=131
Great write up and I'm glad the mod helped out !!
Second time out my self yesterday and i have to say I've NEVER I mean ever qualify so consistence as i did Saturday. The truck was so easy and consistence to drive it was fun.I was driving at 85% at the time, I would say I'm very happy with the progress and glad I did the mod.
Fyi,I did the same to my superlite buggy without removing the receiver box due to running different electronic package. The buggy is perfectly 50/50 left to right and 47.5/52.5 front to rear.
I qualified 2nd but I no longer a lap down and zero crash
05-08-2016, 04:59 PM
#3603
For those of you that are highly concerned with vehicle balance front to back (will not affect left to right) rather than just wheel pressure, make sure you also realize that hinge pin locations and hub locations will all drastically affect this, even with locked and non-moving suspension, as will body mount holes and heights.
That being said, whatever you want to do is possible, and I definitely enjoy seeing people make more use of the hobby side of our racing sport.
That being said, whatever you want to do is possible, and I definitely enjoy seeing people make more use of the hobby side of our racing sport.
05-08-2016, 05:48 PM
#3604
For those of you that are highly concerned with vehicle balance front to back (will not affect left to right) rather than just wheel pressure, make sure you also realize that hinge pin locations and hub locations will all drastically affect this, even with locked and non-moving suspension, as will body mount holes and heights.
That being said, whatever you want to do is possible, and I definitely enjoy seeing people make more use of the hobby side of our racing sport.
That being said, whatever you want to do is possible, and I definitely enjoy seeing people make more use of the hobby side of our racing sport.
05-10-2016, 03:36 AM
#3605
Balance:
Standard set up
Running 3s 5000mah
suspension unrestricted-
Wheels balanced
Front right 120-125 gr heavier then front left.
and 60-80 grams heavier then rear. Larger rear shocks made some of the difference.
Moving hinge pins made a difference of -5 grams . Baby steps
Kinda disappointed here, I must say. To move rx8 to left rear , it doesn't fit. Also the way it looks on my scales rx8 should be moved to front left and battery needs to be moved to rear . But that's not working either. This is a brand new esc never run . Now I gotta start looking into another . Wt---
Standard set up
Running 3s 5000mah
suspension unrestricted-
Wheels balanced
Front right 120-125 gr heavier then front left.
and 60-80 grams heavier then rear. Larger rear shocks made some of the difference.
Moving hinge pins made a difference of -5 grams . Baby steps
Kinda disappointed here, I must say. To move rx8 to left rear , it doesn't fit. Also the way it looks on my scales rx8 should be moved to front left and battery needs to be moved to rear . But that's not working either. This is a brand new esc never run . Now I gotta start looking into another . Wt---
05-10-2016, 06:53 AM
#3606
Balance:
Standard set up
Running 3s 5000mah
suspension unrestricted-
Wheels balanced
Front right 120-125 gr heavier then front left.
and 60-80 grams heavier then rear. Larger rear shocks made some of the difference.
Moving hinge pins made a difference of -5 grams . Baby steps
Kinda disappointed here, I must say. To move rx8 to left rear , it doesn't fit. Also the way it looks on my scales rx8 should be moved to front left and battery needs to be moved to rear . But that's not working either. This is a brand new esc never run . Now I gotta start looking into another . Wt---
Standard set up
Running 3s 5000mah
suspension unrestricted-
Wheels balanced
Front right 120-125 gr heavier then front left.
and 60-80 grams heavier then rear. Larger rear shocks made some of the difference.
Moving hinge pins made a difference of -5 grams . Baby steps
Kinda disappointed here, I must say. To move rx8 to left rear , it doesn't fit. Also the way it looks on my scales rx8 should be moved to front left and battery needs to be moved to rear . But that's not working either. This is a brand new esc never run . Now I gotta start looking into another . Wt---
What is your motor type?
05-10-2016, 07:04 AM
#3607
Tekin 3000 Hd
I believe what needs to be done in order for the rx8 to work and balance things out a little bit closer is ,, the battery tray needs to be completely redesigned. If Tekno won't do it maybe an after market company. Rx8 would be best fit front left (opposite servo)
05-13-2016, 07:36 PM
#3608
I just built one of these and immediately saw oil splatter from my center diff. But it's not from the gasket area, it's from the other o-ring side. Followed the instructions to the T. I just had it apart now and could not get the gear off to inspect and re-grease the o-ring and metal washer that goes over it. So I just re-filled it and put it back together. Still splatters out of the 0-ring area.
Anybody have an idea how to pick the spur gear off the back of the cup? I tried a little piano wire and also a little hemostat. What could be causing a leak on a brand new o-ring with plenty of grease on it? I'm ready to buy a new diff cup and an o-ring to get rid of the leak. Maybe Tekno warrantee will cover this. I haven't called them yet.
Thanks
Anybody have an idea how to pick the spur gear off the back of the cup? I tried a little piano wire and also a little hemostat. What could be causing a leak on a brand new o-ring with plenty of grease on it? I'm ready to buy a new diff cup and an o-ring to get rid of the leak. Maybe Tekno warrantee will cover this. I haven't called them yet.
Thanks
05-13-2016, 10:24 PM
#3609
Tech Adept
I just built one of these and immediately saw oil splatter from my center diff. But it's not from the gasket area, it's from the other o-ring side. Followed the instructions to the T. I just had it apart now and could not get the gear off to inspect and re-grease the o-ring and metal washer that goes over it. So I just re-filled it and put it back together. Still splatters out of the 0-ring area.
Anybody have an idea how to pick the spur gear off the back of the cup? I tried a little piano wire and also a little hemostat. What could be causing a leak on a brand new o-ring with plenty of grease on it? I'm ready to buy a new diff cup and an o-ring to get rid of the leak. Maybe Tekno warrantee will cover this. I haven't called them yet.
Thanks
Anybody have an idea how to pick the spur gear off the back of the cup? I tried a little piano wire and also a little hemostat. What could be causing a leak on a brand new o-ring with plenty of grease on it? I'm ready to buy a new diff cup and an o-ring to get rid of the leak. Maybe Tekno warrantee will cover this. I haven't called them yet.
Thanks
05-13-2016, 11:53 PM
#3610
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (3)
Made this Tekno spec work stand for my girlfriend's 410.3.
Fits the trucks chassis like a glove and holds much more steady that any platform I have used before for any vehicle. There are still a lot of little things I am working out, but when I am done it will hold all the Tekno tools and shocks.
They are built from 5mm ply that I cut with a 100 watt Co2 laser from vector files I designed as interlocking parts.
Fits the trucks chassis like a glove and holds much more steady that any platform I have used before for any vehicle. There are still a lot of little things I am working out, but when I am done it will hold all the Tekno tools and shocks.
They are built from 5mm ply that I cut with a 100 watt Co2 laser from vector files I designed as interlocking parts.
This is freakin awesome, and it's even officially licensed by Tekno! I want one...or three. How much?!
05-14-2016, 12:14 AM
#3612
05-14-2016, 12:27 AM
#3613
Just finished up my 410.3 build, overall it went pretty smooth. I love how heavy duty this thing is, and the chassis layout and wire management is well thought out. I should be taking it out this sunday for its first run and I can't be more excited. I've had a slash 4x4 I tried to race, then got a losi and loved it but 4wd SCT died so I sold it, but now its picking up again so I grabbed the tekno and I'm glad I did.
05-14-2016, 05:17 AM
#3614
If I add weight to the battery it gets some what better . Not much.
Tekin 3000 Hd
I believe what needs to be done in order for the rx8 to work and balance things out a little bit closer is ,, the battery tray needs to be completely redesigned. If Tekno won't do it maybe an after market company. Rx8 would be best fit front left (opposite servo)
Tekin 3000 Hd
I believe what needs to be done in order for the rx8 to work and balance things out a little bit closer is ,, the battery tray needs to be completely redesigned. If Tekno won't do it maybe an after market company. Rx8 would be best fit front left (opposite servo)
Honestly though, for this class, this SHOULD be the more typical configuration. They should have designed the class around 3S with lower KV motors.
05-14-2016, 06:54 AM
#3615
Unfortunately you are running an electronics combo that isn't common in the racing environment. I doubt you will find any of the larger aftermarket manufacturers who are thinking of making this mod.
Honestly though, for this class, this SHOULD be the more typical configuration. They should have designed the class around 3S with lower KV motors.
Honestly though, for this class, this SHOULD be the more typical configuration. They should have designed the class around 3S with lower KV motors.
