219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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02-25-2016, 02:19 PM
#3061
Tech Regular
Has anyone tried running the truck without sway bars? I tried it when I ran my losi scte 2.0 with some success.
02-25-2016, 08:20 PM
#3063
But i'll try anything once
02-25-2016, 08:24 PM
#3064
Tech Regular
Sounds good. I'm still running the stock setup sway bars. Might have to play with those. My truck has been really good but just recently started to nose down a bit. Not sure why yet.
02-25-2016, 11:46 PM
#3065
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Doesn't add to the clutter at all. Tube is still only a couple inches and has a very clean look when shaped nicely. Someone suggested coiling it up in the box. If anyone wants to do that, I have no criticisms for them. I was merely suggesting another option to having the antenna sticking out of the body. If anyone likes the suggestion, they're welcome to try it. That's the beauty of this. You can try whatever you like even if someone else feels it's "unnecessary and adds to the clutter". But I appreciate the positive feedback 
02-25-2016, 11:53 PM
#3066
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
It makes more than enough power to over drive the track on the top end as it is, but I was thinking if I gear down AND add timing it might give more low-end/mid-range power that combined with some voltage limiting and/or throttle expo would make it a beast in the tight parts of the track, while not giving up much top end on the straight. Kind of like how using a super charger on a street car allows you to use a less radical gear ratio while maintaining lots of power throughout the RPM range - making the car easier to drive in town and on the highway. I'm not sure if I'm grasping the concepts correctly, though.
I think that's all down to the ESC, pink rear springs, and the short 15 tooth pinion. 140 foot straight is so long you should not optimize for it. Even F1 cars top out before the end of the straight because its more important to have the other parts of the track optimized.
02-25-2016, 11:58 PM
#3067
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.
I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
02-26-2016, 05:52 AM
#3068
This is not a good idea. Sway bars add a very useful motion control to the suspension. When the McLarens started w/ pure active hydraulic dampers - i.e. virtual springs and stabars, they still needed to create a feeling of stabilizer bars to make the car turn in properly.
that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.
I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.
I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
02-26-2016, 01:42 PM
#3069
This is not a good idea. Sway bars add a very useful motion control to the suspension. When the McLarens started w/ pure active hydraulic dampers - i.e. virtual springs and stabars, they still needed to create a feeling of stabilizer bars to make the car turn in properly.
that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.
I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
that's why I don't like the Tekno stabar narrow mounting location on the gearboxes. the bar is shaped like a V, resulting in more of a bending spring than a reverse action torsion spring. ideally, the bar would be a U shape, with straight arms going to the end links, a mount right in the corners of the U, and a long straight bar in the middle.
I'm also considering graphite lube on the stabar mounts, anyone try that?
| + YouTube Video | |
02-26-2016, 07:05 PM
#3070
I have a few question about pistons for my 410.3. Last season was my first season racing and I am still learning. Our track is hard packed with some dust most of the time and as the season went on the track got more and more rutted and blown out. I was running the 6x1.5 pistons with 35 wt front with black springs and 30 wt rear with green springs. felt pretty good but still a little bouncy. would i benefit from going to the 4x1.8 pistons? Are the 10x1.2 pistons more for smooth track and the 6x1.5 and 4x1.8 more for bumpy? What about oil and springs for the different piston setups? Sorry for so many question, just trying to learn.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
02-26-2016, 10:26 PM
#3071
Tech Rookie
Hello,
I have a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv motor and I can't get the motor mount aligned so that the solder tabs are not at an extreme angle to the side. Anyone else have this problem?
I have a Tekin Pro 4 4000kv motor and I can't get the motor mount aligned so that the solder tabs are not at an extreme angle to the side. Anyone else have this problem?
02-27-2016, 01:23 AM
#3072
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
I have a few question about pistons for my 410.3. Last season was my first season racing and I am still learning. Our track is hard packed with some dust most of the time and as the season went on the track got more and more rutted and blown out. I was running the 6x1.5 pistons with 35 wt front with black springs and 30 wt rear with green springs. felt pretty good but still a little bouncy. would i benefit from going to the 4x1.8 pistons? Are the 10x1.2 pistons more for smooth track and the 6x1.5 and 4x1.8 more for bumpy? What about oil and springs for the different piston setups? Sorry for so many question, just trying to learn.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Black fronts only worked for me with much lighter oil.. 25 wt losi, pink springs in back get 30 wt but moved lower shock mounts to inner hole. This balanced front and rear phase perfectly. Limit the extra droop w the droop bolts.
If u find understeer, reduce front swabar diameter. If you have oversteer, reduce rear bar size.
Before changing bar sizes, remember you can make a bar stiffer by sliding the end link mounts away from the bar ends.. Thus making a shorter lever arm.
02-27-2016, 01:37 AM
#3073
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Cause it's designed that way.. Nose down is faster. Last second try to gun it and raise the front a little.. Else, long as you land off the brakes the jump is quicker nose down . take advantage of it.. Go way faster into jumps and rip brake up the face.
02-27-2016, 04:38 AM
#3074
02-27-2016, 08:03 AM
#3075
Tech Rookie
Hey everybody, quick shout out to Amain for shipping me a dead servo! Made my weekend! Off to get a servo that will work now...Protek 150s. 120$ paperweight.