Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Your English is good enough!
Thank you for the information.

egalsim

iTrader: (44)

Just race 1/8 ebuggy then. buggy wheels look like crap on a short course. Especially dish wheels.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

I don't think that's the main point my man. I agree with you that the solid wheels take away from the scale apearance, and the wheels are a bit low profile for the "SC look", but I think the reason many have the conversion is because a lot of them do race the buggys and and SC is their secondary class. That being said they have loads of wheels/tires laying around for the buggy. The benefit here is the fact you can try out several tread types and see what works best for tracks. If they like the way a certain tire handles, then at that point they can decide to spend money on the class specific tire. Just my take

hawks

iTrader: (23)

Thanks for your thoughts. I'll immediately sell my SCT and stick to ebuggy like you suggest.

You're right Josh, I have plenty of new and used sets of buggy tyres so it makes sense to use them. It's nice to be able to swap around tread types between ebuggy and SCT on race day.

one8updragracer

iTrader: (5)

Running pretty much stock. My experience in sct racing is 2 races... How do you make this truck not so twitchy? Is it just how they all react? running HW xr8 and SMC 4500. Have the punch turned down and IMO I am pretty smooth on the throttle. Just seems like at speed the rear end could and does come around at any time.

I've taken out some anti squat and lengthened the rear links a little but holy cow it is a handful.

4s losi

Add another degree of rear toe. Worked very well for me

Hoese37

iTrader: (5)

You could also ty working on the front to make it less aggressive as well.

mxturd

iTrader: (36)

I have the aluminum A block, should I get the D block next for added adjustability/strength

raved007

iTrader: (36)

Anyone can confirm this SC body if this fit in SC Tekno.http://www.amainhobbies.com/rc-cars-...500328/p363162

qstorm777

iTrader: (2)

I lengthened my wheelbase. It helped too. Think I added 2mm to stock.

lowspark

iTrader: (7)

Use some steering expo. I turned mine to +15 and it took the twich away and made the truck much easier to drive. Your radio may require a negative input.

ryan432greening

iTrader: (4)

Don't be a jerk. To each his/her own.

Josh L

iTrader: (1)

Not to dismiss any of what these guys are telling you, but I would advise you to tune physical first and foremost long before ever having touched your transmitter settings or even your stock shocks. While your shock setup is a true ticket buster, and are every bit if not more important than most of the things you will do regarding your best overall ride handling. I would consider starting somewhere else completely first and foremost.
Your truck sounds to locked for your experience level on the surface your running on from how your explaining it.
Not getting much planted traction over all.

Again, as a rule of thumb you should stay away from fixing things digitally such as expo, servo/throttle response or decreasing end point travel until you get the root problems fixed. Once you do a few things and only then would I suggest you start to play with the radio settings to fine tune things out in very small increments.
If you do it the other way around, you are going to end up making large corrective adjustments that will end up limiting your throws and transition speeds more than should be needed to act as nothing more than a band-aid fix that will leave a lot to be desired in the end with a hindered chassis that lost it's snazzy moves.
Also, one of the most important factors you didn't mention is what tires (& compound dexterity) you are running and on what surface? Those are the two major factors IMO that determine 85% of your optimal settings, no matter what! The other 15% being your power band and jump types that determine pack rates needed.
So hold on to your socks, for this book!
Generally as a starting vehicle, I feel the Tekno is a bit rigid for new racers, especially those that have big power like you do with that 4500.
The SCTE is generally an easier platform for really new driver. But its not at all because the losi is better in any way past arguably weight...?
What is actually the case is the settings are much softer out of box stock configuration.
What TLR chose to do is also what I recommend to you as well regarding your initial setup.
I suggest you highly consider loosening up the diffs.
If your running on a dusty hard pack or loose loam surface like it sounds, then you will majorly benefit by reducing center and rear diff oil weights a whole weight click down.
Stock setup in front to rear calls for an aggressive 7k-7k-5k.
This is great if you are running on more groomed and ideal surfaces with a bit of experience under your belt.
But until you get used to this class of vehicle with the raw power you have coming out of that SMC can, you will most likely need to start lower and come back up in small steps at a time, right from the get go!
If you drop your diff oil to 7-5-3 front to rear, it will really loosen up your handling rigidity, so you aren't over driving your truck with all that power band.
As you may have noticed I don't recommend you change your front diff weight from the stock 7k.
My reasoning is due to the geometry of the stock ackerman positioning on the tekno. The SCTE for example comes with a very long drag link stock. It has much more ackerman effect as the outside wheel turns in significantly less than the inner tire does at full throw.
This is a setup that is very responsive down the straights and likes a careful driver who comes into a turn steep, lets off throttle (mostly) to coast out the sharpest and largest section of the turn and then hammers on the power as things straiten back out for a blitzing exit.
While a long ackerman does like to pull its self straight with power if you get in trouble, the flip side is it absolutely hates "power-on" applied when entering and throughout the middle of turns.
Lots of ackerman naturally wants to pull it's self straight on-power and leave the rearend inline behind it.
That is why the stock SCTE runs lighter 5k front diff oil in their stock kit suggested format. Lighter front and/or rear diff oil really helps transfer more energy to the inside (light) tire with the least amount of drive force going into the planted outer (heavy) wheel around a turn. This hugely helps the outer tire stay planted while the inertial chassis roll its weighing down on top of it steadily as it corners. It promotes side bite to stay firmly engaged to further help guild the path along in the roll out coasting path. If it where heavier oils in the front diff with a long ackerman, the effects would start to be counter productive as the outer wheel would have increased drag coefficient creating a "push effect" that would throw you to the outside of the turn by reducing effective diff slip/coast.
While this setup is generally loads easier to drive for someone new, this is an issue on the more common smaller and or more technical tracks most of us run on outside of 1/8 buggy tracks, and it causes much more grief where less ackerman and more steady power-on transitions would definitely pull it's self through a chicane or any narrow negotiation more quickly and efficiently.
This is exactly why I quickly chose to install a short drag link on my SCTE, so it would reduce ackerman and give me more turning prowess while I am on the throttle almost completely around a turn. With that being said, I had to raise my front diff oil to 7k from 5 in order to get the full effect of having less ackerman. I no longer wanted the stability features of the long link and the benefit of a slipping outer drive wheel.
Now with more outer turn radius, and more outer wheel drive, I could easily and forcefully dig my way around a curve with power!.




Fortunately the 410.3 comes stock with all this considered and has less ackerman effect stock and heavier oil to boot.
So it demands you to drive it smooth and on-power to get the most out of it.

Onward to Gearing!
If you are running the common 15t pinion, I'd suggest adding a 16t, and a 17t pinion to your arsenal ASAP.
While it sounds sort of counter intuitive to run a taller faster gear set, it's not about top speeds but smoothness of transition. Top end can easily be limited via Tx endpoint later if need be once you've found an optimal pinion.
I personally think the gearing factor is one of the most poorly misunderstood functions of all.
What your after here is more about optimizing your under load torque response in and across the power band.
Think of it as a slight servo speed reduction with a touch of softer expo.
But in this case with your motor, and more importantly to tune the way your tire contact patch initiates torque in a "physical viscous way" that will act similar in response to a properly tuned slipper clutch with a tad bit of exponential as RPM grows centrifugal mass in a non linear but climbing way to top speed.
This is exactly what is harmonized within spring stiffness and over all amount of rotation degree the rear end is allowed as done with real race and drag cars utilizing 4 link suspensions.
Doesn't matter how much power you have unless you can apply to the road as consistently as possible. To quick and "instant" a power delivery to the tire will only yield a rad burn out and blow your chance to a smooth ride.
With electric RC in mind, you will need to have at least 3 different sized pinions to get the most out of this over different surfaces.
Again, once you have found the best gear ratio without having much reductions dialed into your remote, you can then use the transmitters throttle transition settings to really fine tune it out.
Being said, obviously you don't want to over heat your setup, so be sure to temp things when you play with gears and start with 0 timing and 0 punch until you know your limits.

Do yourself a favor and try what I have said in this order. You will instantly have an easier handling ride with a better understanding of adjusting it upward from here on, instead of the old classic back and forth confusion that many of us had to learn the hard way!

Matthew_Armeni

iTrader: (31)

Are you asking if the body post holes line up? If so, I don't know. But in general, pretty much any SC body is going to fit any SC truck. I think the original Jammin' body for the SCRT is about the only oddball body (pretty narrow) and nobody runs that.

FAO

Yes, i can confirm. Because of owning a Serpent SCT 2WD Short Course for stock racing, i tryed this body on my Tekno 410.3. It is very lightweight, fits perfekt (changing the body posts necessary) and has a lot of space for the wheels when suspension is compressed.

I have got two Ford bodys to use, but after that i will only use the serpent body.

You can see my car here:

+ YouTube Video

, it is the nearly total white one, on 3. place in the 1. round.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=McTXdsLy9jI