219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-22-2015, 06:43 AM
#1291
I ran a Castle MMP in my SCTE for 2 years with no issues running a Tekin 4000Kv 4 pole 540 motor. The Losi is almost as heavy as the Tekno. I'm not a huge fan of Castle products (chinsy quality and pathetic BEC's) but I think it will do in a pinch. Just remember, running these vehicles with no current limiting and wide open throttle usually results in higher temps, more wheel spin, and slower lap times. Being able to pass someone on the straight is totally useless if they return the favor and blow you away through the infield. Also, if the ESC fan quits working, it needs to be dealt with promptly. Running without the fan will cook the ESC pretty easily.
06-22-2015, 07:05 AM
#1292
Tech Rookie
Got most of my SCT410.3 built over the weekend, how is everyone building their shocks? Recommended way is vented, I've never built shocks as vented or emulsion, just the traditional way w/the bladder.
06-22-2015, 07:15 AM
#1293
I tried a castle sct combo and cooked the esc on the second track visit. Castle recommends it to be used in light scts only. The 3800 castle motor was not a good choice for a Tekno. I ended up going to a rx8 with a pro4 4600 and it was a massive difference. The tekin was more powerful all around and both esc and motor ran cooler than the castle setup did. The hobbywing sct pro and hobbywing 4000 is a awesome combo also that's cheaper than the Tekin.
06-22-2015, 07:18 AM
#1294
I did vented but made it so i can use them as emulsion later on whe i want to try that style
06-22-2015, 07:41 AM
#1295
Stupid question time: Are those clear fins mounted on top of the nerf bars part of the kit or something extra? What are they called?
06-22-2015, 07:46 AM
#1296
The castle esc I used was straight factory settings. All I did was calibrate it to my spektrum radio. I geared it properly also and constantly kept a check on temps but the esc still croaked. Might have just been a defective unit from the factory IDK. Once I went hobbywing I never looked back. I use Hobbywing sct pro and xerun sensored 150A and rx8 escs with good luck so far.
06-22-2015, 07:46 AM
#1297
06-22-2015, 07:47 AM
#1298
06-22-2015, 08:38 AM
#1299
Does anyone know how each of these effects the truck? I've built emulsion and bladder but never vented.
06-22-2015, 08:53 AM
#1300
Thanks guys.
06-22-2015, 08:57 AM
#1301
Any suggestions on what body works good on the .3. Was thinking proline evo sc.
06-22-2015, 10:56 AM
#1302
Tech Rookie
Need help please. I just got my kit the is the absolute first time building a rc in general. I'm at the front shock build but I made a mistake I was going for the vented build and drilled the vent for the top of the cap right but drilled the bleeder where it's supposed to be for the emulsion build. So my question is am I screwed or can I put the screw in and drill the other hole. If I can use that as my bleeder where do I find the oring for the bleeder screw. Also I saw a link somewhere of a step-by-step shock build for these could some one point me in the right direction please and thank you
06-22-2015, 11:35 AM
#1303
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Need help please. I just got my kit the is the absolute first time building a rc in general. I'm at the front shock build but I made a mistake I was going for the vented build and drilled the vent for the top of the cap right but drilled the bleeder where it's supposed to be for the emulsion build. So my question is am I screwed or can I put the screw in and drill the other hole. If I can use that as my bleeder where do I find the oring for the bleeder screw. Also I saw a link somewhere of a step-by-step shock build for these could some one point me in the right direction please and thank you
06-22-2015, 12:05 PM
#1304
Tech Rookie
Thanks and just so I'm understanding you right I will leave both the vent on top and the bleeder hole open right