219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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04-26-2015, 08:33 PM
#574
Add me to the list of guys who recommends the traxxas connectors. The real ones, not the cheep copies on eBa*. Bought my SMC batteries that way with 10 awg. wires. I see other guys with melted inboard connectors and when they see my monster battery wires and traxxas connectors they do a V8 slap on their forhead. Plus I never plug anything in backwards by accident. I was a power pole connector guy for a long time, then went all deans. But with the traxxas I never pull on the wires and there is more surface contact inside the connector than the deans. So now everything I run has traxxas plugs. I do have a bunch of traxxas to "other brands" converters made up just in case a friend needs to barrow something or I need to charge someone else's battery. Its important to pretin then solder wick the gold from the solder area before you solder the wire to the lead. Its how I was taught at NASA to treat all gold plated parts prior to doing the final solder joint. And don't solder past the line on the lead or the lead will not snap properly into the connector housing. I see this problem almost all the time a guy shows me how his leads won't stay in the connector. I laugh inside everytime I see a guy with deans, cold solder joints, and electrical tape holding their sh*t together. I may suck driving but I almost always finish.
Last edited by Guch; 04-26-2015 at 08:46 PM. Reason: Because!
04-27-2015, 06:44 AM
#578
Tech Rookie
I use bullet plugs straight into the battery, never come out and Ive done some jumps and had some big crashes. less wiring means less weight so in my 410 I had the esc posts servo side, and since Im using them electrics on the .3 they too face the same way.
I too broke a wheel hex when building the .3 kit, I thought it was just me being heavy handed but clearly not looking on here.
A quick ? on ride height, the new truck sits really low with the new spring/oil combo and front the really rebounds, I could not see anywhere in the manual about pre load setting or anything so I just wound the collars down the shock body till it was sitting level.
I just finished the 2015 livery on my Jconcepts Raptor SCT-R shell over the weekend!! I must be one of the first guys in the UK to get this truck as I was with the 410, cant wait to start racing, first race is May 17th!!!
I too broke a wheel hex when building the .3 kit, I thought it was just me being heavy handed but clearly not looking on here.
A quick ? on ride height, the new truck sits really low with the new spring/oil combo and front the really rebounds, I could not see anywhere in the manual about pre load setting or anything so I just wound the collars down the shock body till it was sitting level.
I just finished the 2015 livery on my Jconcepts Raptor SCT-R shell over the weekend!! I must be one of the first guys in the UK to get this truck as I was with the 410, cant wait to start racing, first race is May 17th!!!
04-27-2015, 06:52 AM
#579
Tech Master
I am going to start building my shocks this week, and have talked to a couple people saying the .3 box shock package is too soft. I did notice the shock oil weight seemed very light when I looked at them. one was 200cst. IIRC, v1 was 350 & 450cst.
Any recommendations at this point for oil weights? I'm thing 35/30 would be a good start. I think I was running 30/27.5 before.
Any recommendations at this point for oil weights? I'm thing 35/30 would be a good start. I think I was running 30/27.5 before.
04-27-2015, 08:39 AM
#581
Tech Rookie
I'm racing tomorrow night so will ha e a better idea then, the new geometry means it doesn't need to be so heavy oil wise to gain the same damping.
04-27-2015, 08:40 AM
#582
When will we see a .3 machined gun metal anodize or carbon fiber version of the shock towers? I have the v1 front 5mm carbon one and have broke two of the rear 4mm carbon ones. I switched to the machined rear one and have found it to hold up the best. Is there a .3 5mm carbon rear tower coming? My rear v1 carbon towers always break at the two unused holes in the middle of the tower.
I am going to start building my shocks this week, and have talked to a couple people saying the .3 box shock package is too soft. I did notice the shock oil weight seemed very light when I looked at them. one was 200cst. IIRC, v1 was 350 & 450cst.
Any recommendations at this point for oil weights? I'm thing 35/30 would be a good start. I think I was running 30/27.5 before.
Any recommendations at this point for oil weights? I'm thing 35/30 would be a good start. I think I was running 30/27.5 before.
It changes a lot actually. I ran the kit setup this past weekend. Truck handles amazingly. I was the only .3 truck there, and the only one who could consistently make a big quad.
04-27-2015, 08:56 AM
#583
I've noticed on the .3 that the front and rear arms don't have as many holes drilled in them for adjustments.Is there a reason tekno did this?It just seems like that takes a lot of tuning options away as far as shock positions.
04-27-2015, 10:26 AM
#585
Tech Rookie
Has anyone had issues mounting wheels to the 10.3, I have jc hazard scte offset. The problem is I had to drill out the centres to fit over the new stub axles? Also the inside of the wheel rubs the cap head screw on the steering link where it attaches to the steering knuckle? Any ideas of foxes guys??