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Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-25-2015, 07:20 PM   #1366
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Originally Posted by raved007 View Post
Just installed my CF in my tekno sct410.3 look great thickness was 5MM.
Yeah. They do look good installed. I'm worried about the durability. I trust aluminum more. Anyway, just throwing that out there.
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:31 PM   #1367
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Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Just purchased the aluminum from Sumo and will let everyone know how they hold up

I have the same question, do the regular screws work and how does the front skid go under the bumper? any advice on setup.

Also looking to get another set for a used SCT410 on ebay. Aswild - is $175-$200 a good deal for a roller?

thx
I installed the xtreme skids on my sct410 and I had to get longer screws from Tekno. I believe they were 2mm longer.
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:33 PM   #1368
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
You mean this guy on the bottom? Nope nothing of the sort lol.
So really what's the story on this cuz I want one but only see the top piece on the website?
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Old 06-25-2015, 08:36 PM   #1369
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Would there be any interest in 7075 alum shock towers from M2C racing? I have already bent two of the stock rear shock towers. Just purchased the cf, but I prefer to run alum. If there is enough interest, they would probably make them. Idk if they need to be 4 or 5 mm.
+1 here for 5mm
They would have to be a considerable amount cheaper than the cf ones though or I'd just go with those
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:06 PM   #1370
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The kit is 350 on sale an u have to buyRX,servo,combo, body,does it come with everything an how does the bottom look id say 175 would b a great deal if u need to buy a RX/tx then 100 bucks for that so 275 plus battery an the things that were over looked when sold
Of course it goes on sale 3 days after buying one lol.......

For the ride height should it be to the skidplate or to the chassis? Like if the skid plate is 1.4 and the goal height is 24mm then would the the bottom of the skidplate need to be at 22.6 or 24?
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:19 PM   #1371
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Of course it goes on sale 3 days after buying one lol.......

For the ride height should it be to the skidplate or to the chassis? Like if the skid plate is 1.4 and the goal height is 24mm then would the the bottom of the skidplate need to be at 22.6 or 24?
In order to run the same thing as others with the truck, you would need to measure ride height from the chassis. This is why most people don't use skid plates, as they reduce ground clearance. If you raised the ride height to get the clearance back, your roll centers would be off.

The best compromise I've seen to this day is the M2c racing chassis steel skid plate inserts. Absolutely genius idea.
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Old 06-25-2015, 10:26 PM   #1372
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Originally Posted by Carter Flotron View Post
In order to run the same thing as others with the truck, you would need to measure ride height from the chassis. This is why most people don't use skid plates, as they reduce ground clearance. If you raised the ride height to get the clearance back, your roll centers would be off.

The best compromise I've seen to this day is the M2c racing chassis steel skid plate inserts. Absolutely genius idea.
Ok thanks!! I had assumed that but was not sure........

Ok so what is the problem with the castle sidewinder sct setup?(it is the sct edition of the esc) Is the motor too weak or does the esc not provide enough amps? I'm kinda confused as to what sct it is for as a four pole is a bit overkill in 2wd and if it can not pull a 4wd what is it for?

Basically what I'm asking is that do yall think if I got a sensor less hobbywing motor would this system work for the car?
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:10 AM   #1373
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
+1 here for 5mm
They would have to be a considerable amount cheaper than the cf ones though or I'd just go with those
+1 already run his chassis and would definitely buy a set.
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:17 AM   #1374
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Default finding correct battery weight

Hi,
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.

I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.

Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads to over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:

How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:28 AM   #1375
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Originally Posted by RCRijder View Post
Hi,
I've read through this entire thread and through more than half the 1700 page sct410 thread, but cannot find a way to determine battery weight to balance the car left to right. I hope someone can help.

I just got into RC for the first time, after drooling over it for my entire life. Decided to go all out and get a SCT410.3 with waterproof electronics (it rain a lot here)
I'm running a 4S setup, with an Orion R8 WP (110g), an Orion Neon 550 2400 (265g), an 80g servo and a 10g Rx, so my electronics are about 100g heavier than a Tekin Rx8/4300HD setup many of you run.

Now for the battery, the last components to buy. As it is 4s, I'm obviously not racing it in a competition (only against myself), so runtime or mAh is not critical either. I do would like to jump straight though. I tried several ways of weighing the car (don't have a 4 wheel scales setup), but the hysteresis in the shocks and tires, together with the inaccuracies make it next to impossible to get a consistent reproducible measurement. It seems that the mass of the battery spreads to over left and right, but can't even say so for sure. My measurements also seem to show I need a 700g battery to balance the truck, which seems a bit extreme. Hence my request for help:

How can I find the optimum mass of the battery? Or am I trying to solve a made up problem and is a 200g mass difference not noticeable during jumping? I really hope someone can help.
Cheers, RCRijder
It only takes a 320g battery to balance an rx8/4300 setup, so I can't see you needing more than 420g (and probably not even that much).

One quick and easy thing you can do without any special tools is load the battery compartment with the amount of weight you think you need and then pick up the truck with your pointer fingers hooked under the center of the front and rear shock towers. It should want to hang that way reasonably balanced, if it wants to fall it will fall to the heavier side.

You also might want to ask the eb48 guys, its layout is nearly identical to the sct410 and the electronics they run are the same weight as the ones you're looking at.
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Old 06-26-2015, 05:40 AM   #1376
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Default shock towers

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Originally Posted by wreckya View Post
+1 already run his chassis and would definitely buy a set.
If I made these, I would use 4 mm 7075 t6 material.
I have made shock towers for most of the major brands of 1/8 scale and the 4 mm that we use
is much stronger than the Europian 7075 t0 material
Question: I read the description of the part.
Is the (.3) towers 6 mm shorter than the (.2)
If this is true they would not work with the .2 model unless you changed shocks also.
lmk if I am thinking correctly.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:38 AM   #1377
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Yeah. They do look good installed. I'm worried about the durability. I trust aluminum more. Anyway, just throwing that out there.
No need to worry about the towers. The rear is now 5MM thick, and the front has lost the recesses for the stand off. So there is now more beef in the towers which will reduce breakage.

[QUOTE=theboss13;14069283]Ok so what is the problem with the castle sidewinder sct setup?(it is the sct edition of the esc) Is the motor too weak or does the esc not provide enough amps? I'm kinda confused as to what sct it is for as a four pole is a bit overkill in 2wd and if it can not pull a 4wd what is it for?QUOTE]

Its pretty much made for the Slash. A light weight vehicle. At one point on their site Castle recommended the vehicle be under 5.5lbs to run it. The Tekno is just too big for the 65A ESC to handle.
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Old 06-26-2015, 06:40 AM   #1378
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
So really what's the story on this cuz I want one but only see the top piece on the website?
Patience grasshopper.
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Old 06-26-2015, 07:16 AM   #1379
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Originally Posted by m2cracing View Post
If I made these, I would use 4 mm 7075 t6 material.
I have made shock towers for most of the major brands of 1/8 scale and the 4 mm that we use
is much stronger than the Europian 7075 t0 material
Question: I read the description of the part.
Is the (.3) towers 6 mm shorter than the (.2)
If this is true they would not work with the .2 model unless you changed shocks also.
lmk if I am thinking correctly.
Right. The .3 has a new geometry verses the previous versions. Idk how many people have the .3s yet. I just know ive already bent 2 rear shock towers. I have the cf now, but won't get a chc to run it until next wkend. Hopefully, they fix the prob, but i feel better about alum. Seems like there were some others asking for cnc alum towers too.
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Old 06-26-2015, 10:48 AM   #1380
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With all that I am, I abhor hand threading these effing ball cups!!!!!!
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