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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-24-2015, 07:32 AM   #1336
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Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
Yea, everyone is different. They upset the way the truck works when I have ran them in past, especially when running the truck low on indoor high bite surface.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:36 AM   #1337
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So no one running them in the desert heat
I don't live in the desert But we get over 100s here and I usually don't change my fluids by heat.........while others may I usually don't notice a difference with heat
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:44 AM   #1338
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Guys, I'm not sure if they make the truck too wide for ROAR Rules or not, but I'd recommend the DE Racing +3mm Borrego wheels. They are really nice wheels, solid, keep dirt out, strong, and come in cool colors, have a nice bead too. I wish they came in a +2mm.. That would be perfect. It makes the truck slightly wider, keeps the inner wheel fins from rubbing, and the tires WILL still fit inside the body without severe rubbing when the suspension compresses.

Some of the stock offset wheels will rub slightly, and make noise or at least be annoying as hell. If you do run stock SC10 4x4 wheels, a +1 wider Hex might be beneficial. I haven't tried SCTE wheels, but I'm pretty sure they are the same as SC10 4x4.

My recomendation is +3 DE wheels, Aluminum horn, Pink springs, rear skid plate, better clamping hexs, good/fast Servo, definitely get a sensorser motor & ESC set up. I'd start with a 16 tooth pinion for normal size tracks. Or a 17 for big tracks. 18 for Huge tracks.

The HobbyWing SCT Pro XeRun Combo includes a 15T Mod 1 pinion FYI.
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Old 06-24-2015, 11:54 AM   #1339
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Did you have any problems getting this motor mounted? On mine, it looks like the 3 front screws extend past the front cap preventing me from getting a flush mount of the motor mount against the front of the motor. As a result, the motor is hitting the onboard motor mount. I hope that makes sense.
No problems with that so far. Screws of all my 3 motors flush with the front cap. Does your motor has shims under the head of the screws?
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:31 PM   #1340
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I don't live in the desert But we get over 100s here and I usually don't change my fluids by heat.........while others may I usually don't notice a difference with heat
No i was wondering about the wt of the diff fluid for hot weather
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:34 PM   #1341
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Default Diff screws trk1325

So i have noticed that i cant find the m3x14 screws for the diff assembly but there is the m3x16 so i was going to use those any one else notice this, let me know what u used an if its ok the use the 3x16 it will work but a hair longer
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:43 PM   #1342
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Default Skid plates and tool suggestions

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohn929
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.

I got a few tbone ones that i got an yea i use them they work good an when i did not have them my tail is pretty ate up with just street running


So, I will try the Tbone or APE. Which is easier to install? Total newbie here. Last real rc car was an 88 JrX2. Just getting into it now with my 7yr old son. What a difference in performance nowadays. Bought him a cheapo Hobbypeople Razr basher and had so much fun with it here I am now with a 410.3 on the way with a Tekin pro4 and RX setup. I absorbed all the comments I thankfully recieved here and happened to find a deal on that setup. I think my next will be a new Xerun 4000KV combo to save money after weighing everyone's advice here.

I'm also considering picking up another used SCT 410 or SCT410 roller with all the awesome ebay deals right now, which also may require skid plates especially there due to the worn used chassis.

This thread has been very valuable. And thank you all for the advice and previous posts. I will try to pass along any newbie knowledge to others in more beginner forums. Since I may purchase the ebay SCT410, I probably need some tools (cheap/functioning solder setup, dremel, etc.) So, forgive the blathering, my final questions are:

- Skidplate vs APE Skid Plates - Which is better functioning/easier install
- Advice on tools (Solder setup, Dremel/Rotary, et cetera, and best place to get them without breaking the bank).
- Any additional newbie tips appreciated and will be taken

Any advice appreciated and will be noted.

Thanks!
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:51 PM   #1343
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Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohn929
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.

I got a few tbone ones that i got an yea i use them they work good an when i did not have them my tail is pretty ate up with just street running


So, I will try the Tbone or APE. Which is easier to install? Total newbie here. Last real rc car was an 88 JrX2. Just getting into it now with my 7yr old son. What a difference in performance nowadays. Bought him a cheapo Hobbypeople Razr basher and had so much fun with it here I am now with a 410.3 on the way with a Tekin pro4 and RX setup. I absorbed all the comments I thankfully recieved here and happened to find a deal on that setup. I think my next will be a new Xerun 4000KV combo to save money after weighing everyone's advice here.

I'm also considering picking up another used SCT 410 or SCT410 roller with all the awesome ebay deals right now, which also may require skid plates especially there due to the worn used chassis.

This thread has been very valuable. And thank you all for the advice and previous posts. I will try to pass along any newbie knowledge to others in more beginner forums. Since I may purchase the ebay SCT410, I probably need some tools (cheap/functioning solder setup, dremel, etc.) So, forgive the blathering, my final questions are:

- Skidplate vs APE Skid Plates - Which is better functioning/easier install
- Advice on tools (Solder setup, Dremel/Rotary, et cetera, and best place to get them without breaking the bank).
- Any additional newbie tips appreciated and will be taken
Any advice appreciated and will be noted.

Thanks!
As far a tools i would get the MIP hex drivers an a hand held rechargeable drill i got the set of bits from amazon ,other than that i just use what I have oh an a pair of the shock pliers work good to put the pivot balls an what not in the links an other links ,as far as soldering i just got one of the gun looking units it's not like we are doing it daily, the skid plates are on the tbone website they are the eb sl tekno ones
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Old 06-24-2015, 01:27 PM   #1344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohn929
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.

I got a few tbone ones that i got an yea i use them they work good an when i did not have them my tail is pretty ate up with just street running


So, I will try the Tbone or APE. Which is easier to install? Total newbie here. Last real rc car was an 88 JrX2. Just getting into it now with my 7yr old son.

This thread has been very valuable. And thank you all for the advice and previous posts. I will try to pass along any newbie knowledge to others in more beginner forums.

- Skidplate vs APE Skid Plates - Which is better functioning/easier install

Any advice appreciated and will be noted.

Thanks!
At Sumo Racing we carry both aluminum and stainless skids, just an option I saw you mentioned earlier. Both pairs are 1.4mm thick to keep drag to a minimum. Depending on your plans (bashing vs racing or both) and race surface would help to determine which one to choose. I sell them as a set, both front and back. The stainless last for a long time and can take the abuse. If you are strictly racing and are worried about weight, the aluminum's would be up your alley. Just suggestions is all. For installation, just remove the 4 main diff mount screws and add the plate. Thanks, Terry.

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Old 06-24-2015, 02:29 PM   #1345
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No problems with that so far. Screws of all my 3 motors flush with the front cap. Does your motor has shims under the head of the screws?
I called them. Apparently, they have had a few calls on this. They suggested grinding down the 3 front cap screws until they were flush or below the face. Once I did that, everything mounted up. Kind of weird that I have to do that. I would think that if they knew it was a problem with some, they would ensure that all the screws were flush. Oh well. Im ready to try it and see if i can get 10 min out of it.
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Old 06-24-2015, 02:50 PM   #1346
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Thank you for your message. I will be racing sometimes. How long with the aluminum last with bashing in the dirt/outdoor racetracks vs stainless steel and what is the impact on jumping? thx!
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:04 PM   #1347
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Guys, I'm not sure if they make the truck too wide for ROAR Rules or not, but I'd recommend the DE Racing +3mm Borrego wheels. They are really nice wheels, solid, keep dirt out, strong, and come in cool colors, have a nice bead too. I wish they came in a +2mm.. That would be perfect. It makes the truck slightly wider, keeps the inner wheel fins from rubbing, and the tires WILL still fit inside the body without severe rubbing when the suspension compresses.

Some of the stock offset wheels will rub slightly, and make noise or at least be annoying as hell. If you do run stock SC10 4x4 wheels, a +1 wider Hex might be beneficial. I haven't tried SCTE wheels, but I'm pretty sure they are the same as SC10 4x4.

My recomendation is +3 DE wheels, Aluminum horn, Pink springs, rear skid plate, better clamping hexs, good/fast Servo, definitely get a sensorser motor & ESC set up. I'd start with a 16 tooth pinion for normal size tracks. Or a 17 for big tracks. 18 for Huge tracks.

The HobbyWing SCT Pro XeRun Combo includes a 15T Mod 1 pinion FYI.
The DE Borrego wheels for the SCTE should fit with the stock kit.

For those that have a lot of +3 wheels and have a way to check your max width, here's an idea to try. Use the stock hexes (or the clamping replacements that DON'T add +1mm) and move the inner hingepins all the way towards the center of the car to narrow the track as much as possible (this will also give you 3 degrees of toe in the rear). Moving the C block out to get less toe (if you need it) shouldn't increase the max width either. Theoretically this will put you only 1mm over ROAR width, but depending on your camber maybe not. Plus, according to ROAR rules, max width is measured at the axle center for 4wd SC. Either way, good for club racing
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Old 06-24-2015, 03:46 PM   #1348
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I called them. Apparently, they have had a few calls on this. They suggested grinding down the 3 front cap screws until they were flush or below the face. Once I did that, everything mounted up. Kind of weird that I have to do that. I would think that if they knew it was a problem with some, they would ensure that all the screws were flush. Oh well. Im ready to try it and see if i can get 10 min out of it.
Hello qstorm,

Who did you call in regards to your motor not fitting on the mount properly because of the screws not being flush?
I would like to know for future customers that may encounter this issue and call us about it. That way I can direct them to LRP to resolve their issue.

Thanks!
-Thomas
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Old 06-24-2015, 07:29 PM   #1349
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Hello qstorm,

Who did you call in regards to your motor not fitting on the mount properly because of the screws not being flush?
I would like to know for future customers that may encounter this issue and call us about it. That way I can direct them to LRP to resolve their issue.

Thanks!
-Thomas
I called the lrp america support number on their website. I don't have the name of the person i talked to. Anyway, I knew immediately it was an lrp issue. I had no problems mounting the tekin before it. Plus, i could see the mount wasn't flush with the front case because of the screws. I probably should have asked for screws that fit, but the mod was quicker.
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Old 06-24-2015, 09:30 PM   #1350
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Ok so I'm am building my kit today and it is going well....Did yall have an issue with the rear bumper screws being too lonG where the screw through the shock tower?
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