R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree82Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-23-2015, 12:32 PM   #1321
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Vegas
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default So

I have taken the front end apart an diff cleaned out ,it was half full from what was spec to fill, it was a bit dirty but still smooth but i did find the drive cup was loose sliding up an down on the gear shaft but was not loose enough to come off,so how much do u clean it ,do u make it brand new again or do u just clean it up an fill an replace ,also i live in the hot dessert 110 right now ,what fluids do u recommend for hot weather,it is not a racer just a fun track out front truck ,,thanks

Last edited by Aswild; 06-23-2015 at 12:48 PM.
Aswild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2015, 01:47 PM   #1322
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Vegas
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
I'm prob not the best person to answer this, but on shocks, just loosen top nut and bottom screw.

Rear end, i remove the 4 chassis screws and the top rear brace screw. From there, I loosen the sway bars on the arms, the two lower rear bumper screws and the 1st 2 screws the manual have you install when putting the diff case together.

Similar on the front end. Also have to remove 2 screws attaching top plate to diff and probably loosen the other 3 top plate screws. I also loosen the steering links at the c-hub.

I know some people can remove the rear diff (and maybe the front) without removing the whole rear/front ends. I can get the diff out this way, but putting them back is a pain with the diff shims.
Yea thanks for the info ,i just did it in reverse of instruction just wanted to no if it was like durango were they pull it out an put it back in so ez, lol but i am glade i did because i found the grub loose on rear drive diff cup, no i have to go to the hobby shop an get some fluides lol,
Aswild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2015, 02:18 PM   #1323
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 413
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default Hexes

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
You may find that the front hingepin brace in aluminum is worth picking up as there were some reports of breakage on the sct410.3 . The previous sct410 included an aluminum front hingepin brace due to breakage issues they saw. At a minimum, maybe have a spare set on hand.

I'd probably pick up the +1 mm CNC hexes too. not from a durability perspective but I liked the handling and didn't get any rubbing issues with those.

I've been looking for +1mm hexes, can't find any. I find the aluminum tekno ones bit that is it
mxturd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2015, 02:37 PM   #1324
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 263
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mxturd View Post
I've been looking for +1mm hexes, can't find any. I find the aluminum tekno ones bit that is it
http://www.teknorc.com/shop/tkr1654x...d-ae-sc10-4x4/
Tijuana_Taxi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2015, 02:42 PM   #1325
Tech Champion
 
fq06's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 5,628
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Nitrohouse has them and there is a listing on ebay and I'm sure more places have them in stock.
This google search should help
http://www.google.com/search?site=&s....3.pUn7QUr4ZK8
__________________
BCE SCT410 / Hobbywing 3656sd ~ RX8.2
DEX210 / Trinity 17.5 ~ RS.2
Westcoast Raceway (R.I.P.) | SMC | PowerLab
fq06 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2015, 05:24 PM   #1326
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 413
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

Thanks fellas, I was just googling +1 hexes
mxturd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 12:08 AM   #1327
JAE
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1,841
Trader Rating: 28 (100%+)
Default Best Skid Plates (front&great?)

Beginner racer more interested in preserving the integrity of the chassis while improving my driving. Does anyone suggest the Sumo or Leadfinger skid plate? Also,
Would I be better off with both front and rear with the idea being balancing the weight? I will be doing a good deal of outdoor driving with the new 410.3. Thanks in advance!!
JAE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 02:34 AM   #1328
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hong Kong
Posts: 625
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Beginner racer more interested in preserving the integrity of the chassis while improving my driving. Does anyone suggest the Sumo or Leadfinger skid plate? Also,
Would I be better off with both front and rear with the idea being balancing the weight? I will be doing a good deal of outdoor driving with the new 410.3. Thanks in advance!!
I have the DE Racing skid plates for the rear
http://www.deracing.net/store/index....product_id=301

Cheap and light. You don't want to be bogged down with much weight in the SCT. I don't really think you need a front skid plate
__________________
On-Road - Xray T4'17 / Serpent 4-X / Tamiya Exo6 / Roche P12 & F1 / Schumacher Mi6Evo / Awesomatix A800 / Xpress XQ1
4WD - Kyosho ZX6 / Yokomo YZ4 *** eBuggy - Tekno EB48SL
2WD - AE B5M (XFactory Chassis) / Kyosho RB6 / TLR 22 2.0 / Yokomo YZ2
SCT - Tekno SCT410 / Losi 22SCT 2.0
WagwanBumba is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 03:02 AM   #1329
Tech Addict
 
Dan.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S/W lower Michigan
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jvcaniggia View Post
Beginner racer more interested in preserving the integrity of the chassis while improving my driving. Does anyone suggest the Sumo or Leadfinger skid plate? Also,
Would I be better off with both front and rear with the idea being balancing the weight? I will be doing a good deal of outdoor driving with the new 410.3. Thanks in advance!!
I wouldn't run them unless it was just a straight basher, loose too much travel with those things. Just replace the chassis when the time comes.
__________________
Tekno EB48.3/Tekno EB48SL/Tekno SCT410.3
Dan.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 05:56 AM   #1330
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 413
Trader Rating: 36 (100%+)
Default

How much steering servo do I really need for this truck? I don't want to overkill, and just waste money, and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
mxturd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 06:01 AM   #1331
Moderator
 
bds81175's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Litchfield, Minnesota
Posts: 2,744
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

At least 180 oz and under 0.10 sec, IMO. For me, I prefer the servo not to limit me so I go much stronger and much faster. My son is running the Protek 150S right now and loves it. Great servo. However, I did manage to run a Savox 1258 in mine for quite a while with no issues. I think what you will find is that a servo like the Savox will not have quite enough power during cornering on medium to high bite at the extremes. Just my opinion.
__________________
Current Racers: AE B6D, Tekno SCT410, Tekno EB48.3
Full Throttle R/C Raceway www.ftrcr.com, Psycho Dog Racing Team, Team Holy Rollers - Greatest RC race team on the planet. Well, at least the team with the best sponsor.
Tekno RC
bds81175 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 06:24 AM   #1332
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Vegas
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

So no one running them in the desert heat
Aswild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 06:32 AM   #1333
Tech Regular
 
rjohn929's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 306
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan.J View Post
I wouldn't run them unless it was just a straight basher, loose too much travel with those things. Just replace the chassis when the time comes.
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.
__________________
SCT410.3, SCT410, ET48, SCTE 1.0, SC10 4x4, SC10, B44.1, B44.2, Yeti, Yeti XL, Wraith, SCX10 JK, Gold pan/repro, Worlds Car/repro, Rival, Emaxx, Tmaxx, assorted Ofna's, 6 Big Bears, MERV, 3DR Solo, DMG DRIII, Vanquish, Avante, mixed bag of crawlers/scalers and the list goes on and on and..........
rjohn929 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 06:39 AM   #1334
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Vegas
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohn929 View Post
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.
I got a few tbone ones that i got an yea i use them they work good an when i did not have them my tail is pretty ate up with just street running
Aswild is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2015, 07:00 AM   #1335
Tech Addict
 
Dan.J's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: S/W lower Michigan
Posts: 748
Trader Rating: 21 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rjohn929 View Post
I'll gladly loose 1.2mm or so to save me from spending $100 on a chassis. I have DE on my 410, APE on my .3 and Leadfinger on my ET48. It's easy to pull the screws throught he DE ones and the Leadfingers one is pretty thick so I prefer the APE skids.
Yea, everyone is different. They upset the way the truck works when I have ran them in past, especially when running the truck low on indoor high bite surface.
__________________
Tekno EB48.3/Tekno EB48SL/Tekno SCT410.3
Dan.J is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
sct410, sct410.3, short course, short course 4x4, tekno


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:32 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net