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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-18-2015, 10:47 AM   #1216
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Originally Posted by Barillms View Post
Yeah Pink Pink might be good. I ran Black fronts Pink Rears last weekend off-road, low bite outdoor. It's definitely hard to get 24mm with the green fronts. If the green Springs were 65mm, instead of 70 it would be nice. With the 70mm Green 28 is about the norm (with batt).

Pink front, Green Rears is also worth a try.
So far I like Pink/Pink best with 25/35 Losi oil.

Next rebuilt I'm going to 5/5/2 in the Diffs, and see how that changes things.
Is it possible to Reuse Diff gaskets?? Or must you replace them with each rebuild?
I reuse mine all the time. They are good until they tear. Never had a leaky diff yet.
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Old 06-18-2015, 01:55 PM   #1217
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I have pink on the front and stock blacks on the back right now, I may try pinks in back as well. The kit setup was pretty good for me on the surface you are running on and think it would be even better If I could get 25/24MM ride height in front but I'm still at like 28+MM in front with no preload.
I installed brand new pink front springs on my truck last weekend. I compressed them a few times before instaling and had no problem to get a ride hight of 24mm. I just could imagine that you installed the spring adjusters upside down.
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Old 06-18-2015, 02:21 PM   #1218
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I installed brand new pink front springs on my truck last weekend. I compressed them a few times before instaling and had no problem to get a ride hight of 24mm. I just could imagine that you installed the spring adjusters upside down.
Depends on shock location. If you running stock set up shock position you can't get 24mm ride height. I'm running black front 25mm heigth / black rear 24mm heigth with frioni piston 450F/350R running smooth as butter Without slamming in the ground.
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:18 AM   #1219
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Default Fluid change

So i have been running my truck for a month , nothing hard core just a day at track an out front on the street ,so with a break in period when would u change the fluid in your diffs ?
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Old 06-19-2015, 07:37 AM   #1220
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So i have been running my truck for a month , nothing hard core just a day at track an out front on the street ,so with a break in period when would u change the fluid in your diffs ?
I'd give them a rebuild. should be smoother now.

Hey, does anyone know of a company that makes heatshrink tubing in the colors that tekno uses for spring designation? Got some truggy springs here and tekno's method of putting paint on the springs is hard for me to see at times since they are silver and it rubs off too. wouldn't mind using tubing instead like AE on the 1/10 stuff and Durango do for quick identification.
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Old 06-19-2015, 04:31 PM   #1221
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So i have been running my truck for a month , nothing hard core just a day at track an out front on the street ,so with a break in period when would u change the fluid in your diffs ?
Honestly, some bashers never change it. But normal racers change it often, and experiment with different weights. I'd say once a month is fine, but its not absolutely mandatory. You can let it go awhile... It won't hurt anything.
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Old 06-19-2015, 09:53 PM   #1222
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Ok so I am looking at purchasing one of these as I currently have a pro4 enduro that I was given to get into the class. I had a few questions though, Would a castle 540 3800 4 pole 1410 motor and sct esc be enough power for this car? I saw the gearing chart and it said this Kv but I didn't know if it was for a 550. Also what servo would you recommend for it? I am looking for something On the cheaper side. Also would (with the aforementioned combo) a 5500 mah battery last 10 minutes? Lastly are there any problem areas with this car? This part may have been mentioned already but I did not see it.
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:09 PM   #1223
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Also does the kit come with fluids(and the right fluids lol)oh and I'm on a large outdoor track. Usually dusty bumpy and medium to low grip
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Old 06-19-2015, 11:24 PM   #1224
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Originally Posted by theboss13 View Post
Ok so I am looking at purchasing one of these as I currently have a pro4 enduro that I was given to get into the class. I had a few questions though, Would a castle 540 3800 4 pole 1410 motor and sct esc be enough power for this car? I saw the gearing chart and it said this Kv but I didn't know if it was for a 550. Also what servo would you recommend for it? I am looking for something On the cheaper side. Also would (with the aforementioned combo) a 5500 mah battery last 10 minutes? Lastly are there any problem areas with this car? This part may have been mentioned already but I did not see it.
Thanks
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Also does the kit come with fluids(and the right fluids lol)oh and I'm on a large outdoor track. Usually dusty bumpy and medium to low grip
The motor will move the truck OK, the speedo will likely not though. On a budget check out the Hobbywing SCT Pro. A 5500 pack will likely barely do 10 minutes. Youll be near the very end of the battery and close to cutoff quickly. Look into a 6500 or 7200 from SMC. The kit does include fluids, but get a couple extra shock oils in the 30-35 range. The stock rear oil is very light. Only other thing youll need is an aluminum servo horn.
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Old 06-20-2015, 05:07 AM   #1225
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So i have been running my truck for a month , nothing hard core just a day at track an out front on the street ,so with a break in period when would u change the fluid in your diffs ?
Had a chance to meet Tekno racer Ryan Lutz at my local track and I asked him to check out my truck since it was my first build and I didn't have a baseline. He spun my wheelschedule and asked when the last time I changed my diff was. My answer was the same as yours. He told me every 1 hour of run time he would change them out. I checked mine and they were about empty with black sludge. I have been running 7/7/5 but may lower it for our hard packed dusty outdoor.

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Old 06-20-2015, 05:15 AM   #1226
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Default Turning.

Hard packed and dusty. Running Proline Blockades with great luck and going to try the AKA Gridiron 2 next. I want the truck to roll more on turns and dig in for off power turning. I already softened up my front springs and will probably play with more negative camber next, but when do I start trying to play with my sway bar as and softening it up so the vehicle rolls more?
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Old 06-20-2015, 07:29 AM   #1227
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The motor will move the truck OK, the speedo will likely not though. On a budget check out the Hobbywing SCT Pro. A 5500 pack will likely barely do 10 minutes. Youll be near the very end of the battery and close to cutoff quickly. Look into a 6500 or 7200 from SMC. The kit does include fluids, but get a couple extra shock oils in the 30-35 range. The stock rear oil is very light. Only other thing youll need is an aluminum servo horn.
Ok thanks!!
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Old 06-20-2015, 11:00 AM   #1228
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"This is for my race rigs only"
That may be true but I can tell you that a lot of that suff will not last very long and you will be buying it many times. I am a firm believer in the "cry once" mentality. Nobody has to buy the most expensive stuff out there but sometimes it is a case of you get what you pay for. I've tried 3 crappy Turnigy (my opinion) servos in my 410. All three failed in a short period of time. Thats $105 down the drain. I could have bought a Protek 130T and be done with it for $90. I'm not saying everybody will have problems with the Turnigy stuff but I did and I won't go that route again.

Most people do not run Hobbywing. You generalize an awful lot in your posts. In fact, I don't think I have seen a single Hobbywing in any of the 4x4 SCT at my local track, of course I haven't seen them all. The ones I've seen use Tekin, Viper and Orion. I personally only use Tekin ESC's because I like them, they last and Hotwire is great. I'm open to different motors but so far I found the 4300HD and 10L to be my favorite for my Tekno.

I'm running the Hobby wing Xerun SCT combo right now and I started having problems with the truck shutting down halfway in the race. I lowered the max voltage to setting 1 and it's still doing it. I just bought a Castle BEC to see if that will fix it, but been too wet lately. I ordered a RX8 Gen 2, I will try that.
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:01 PM   #1229
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I'm running the Hobby wing Xerun SCT combo right now and I started having problems with the truck shutting down halfway in the race. I lowered the max voltage to setting 1 and it's still doing it. I just bought a Castle BEC to see if that will fix it, but been too wet lately. I ordered a RX8 Gen 2, I will try that.
Hobbywing recently had a firmware update for their esc's that was supposed to help with this issue.i don't know if you are aware of this or not,but you might want to look into it.
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Old 06-20-2015, 01:07 PM   #1230
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Hard packed and dusty. Running Proline Blockades with great luck and going to try the AKA Gridiron 2 next. I want the truck to roll more on turns and dig in for off power turning. I already softened up my front springs and will probably play with more negative camber next, but when do I start trying to play with my sway bar as and softening it up so the vehicle rolls more?
We have had some success here with removing the front sway bar. Its quick and easy to remove for a test run.
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