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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 03-24-2015, 09:42 AM   #106
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
Matt,

Any more news you have on that setup guide Tekno was working on? Would love to see something out there with all the great info specific to Tekno vehicles.

Lastly, do you guys at Tekno consider the battery tray mod a last resort for nose down issues or is there a time you guys say "go with it first" based on track conditions (say really loose, current "fixes" take away traction, etc").

I got a tray here already done up, just curious if its good to just go with it right away or mess with testing on the new vehicle.
The guide is still being worked on. We keep learning new things every day so we keep adding/modifying our info to reflect what we've learned.

I have honestly never modded the tray on any of my cars, especially not the buggy. The most weight rear I have ever done is my current setup, shorty to the rear of the tray with my rx and transponder in front of that. But I'm also running a very, very little rear bumper.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:51 AM   #107
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It was Neumann or Hönigl at a EOS-race who used one with a Durango. But they disallowed it or something.

Don't know what the the comment by Mathew was to imply. That the nose down issue (which I never had) is remedied by a wing?

If Tekno would have thought that a better balance is achieved by putting the battery back they would have changed it in the .3. It was one of the first things I checked when they had pics out.

Also what's interesting is that the new setup sheet has lower rate springs again (thank god).
I should have quoted who I responding to because my post by itself doesn't read exactly how I meant it to.
I was saying that the reason pretty much no one has the "nose down" issue with the buggy or truggy is due more to the wing than the extra weight of the 8th scale electronics.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:01 AM   #108
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Do the wing needs to be straight up and down like the 2nd photo? or a angle?
Depends on how much downforce you need. More vertical should give you more downforce but will also increase drag, possibly lowering your top speed. More laid back will give less downforce.
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:34 AM   #109
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I'm currently running shorties, but my truck weighs just under 6lbs RTR.
Cool, you got a pick out there would love to see that.

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+1 on the JC F250 body I have been using it since it came out. Very durable and the rear wing really makes a difference.
I have the Titan one from Jconcepts, looking at it in comparison it appears to not have that kind of false "wing" present, I wonder if that could be part of the problem too I am seeing or at least not providing the benefits?

May give that body a look!
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Old 03-24-2015, 10:51 AM   #110
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Depends on how much downforce you need. More vertical should give you more downforce but will also increase drag, possibly lowering your top speed. More laid back will give less downforce.
Thank you Sir.

Going to see if i can fine a temp to cut one out.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:18 PM   #111
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Just sold my legacy.....Im getting the .3 when its available.
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Old 03-24-2015, 12:44 PM   #112
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pre ordered and cant wait....
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:15 PM   #113
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Just sold my legacy.....Im getting the .3 when its available.
Mine's off to her new home as well, looking forward to the .3.

Sidenote, with the .3 being a touch lighter, anyone thinking about using a 540, instead of any of the big motors? Just picked up the SMC I really wanted to try.
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Old 03-24-2015, 05:24 PM   #114
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Mine's off to her new home as well, looking forward to the .3.

Sidenote, with the .3 being a touch lighter, anyone thinking about using a 540, instead of any of the big motors? Just picked up the SMC I really wanted to try.
I have been running the smc motor since summer (early tester)and winning plenty of races with it.
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:16 PM   #115
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Originally Posted by jmackani View Post
I have been running the smc motor since summer (early tester)and winning plenty of races with it.
Ditto. I had SMC tweak it a bit to get to the current design from what it started as, and like it a lot.
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Old 03-24-2015, 06:19 PM   #116
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In case you aren't sold on it... Yellow is the SMC motor (me), red was a Tekin. These are 2s EB48s. Please pardon the bad driving, I'd been away from RC for a few months and was knocking the rust off during a casual race night.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 03-24-2015, 09:21 PM   #117
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Default battery mod

I got to weigh my ebsl on 4s with 1900 smc and a smc 5000 pack it was just about perfect balance on 4 scales everyone should do battery mod in my opinion. pink front springs and yellow rear 26 rear ride height 25 front.
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Old 03-25-2015, 06:30 AM   #118
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I got to weigh my ebsl on 4s with 1900 smc and a smc 5000 pack ...
what was its RTR weight?
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:03 AM   #119
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I ran a wing a few times at the track on my sct410 with the evo body was better, went through entire truck freed up my suspension and changed over to delrin inserts single oring and delrin pistons and the truck was 100 different truck. Make sure your suspension is free moving. Helped me a ton.
You know that the Evo is made mainly for 2-wd where you need more downforce in front. That's why the front is at that a steep angle. If you have nose downers. Don't use the EVO.
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Old 03-26-2015, 05:51 AM   #120
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Pre ordered!
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