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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-18-2015, 11:14 AM   #856
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Just finished up my sct410.3
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:52 AM   #857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Gotta quite oversteering and remember to brake early and drive thru turn off straight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by louie8269 View Post
I've only been able to run my truck once about 3 weeks ago. It ran pretty well and I don't think I had the best tires available to make it totally planted. However, even given that, I felt my rear was too loose. (I don't think the tires were that far off from optimal)

Has anyone messed with the rear anti-squat? My rear toe is already at -4 deg so my next step would be to try to decrease the anti squat. thoughts?
Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Just curious as to when the rear end gets loose. Is it when trying to make a turn after a high speed section or all the time? Mine is pretty planted. I did drop my brake strength and decreased my rear droop because my nose was drooping too when I hit the brakes at the end of the straight. However, I felt that was on me. I need to brake earlier and no so hard. I was also oversteering trying to get into the turn. I did some 360s last week at the end of the straight, but, after making the adjustments, I was good.
A great way to have the truck brake straighter and more controlled is to take kickup out of the front. I have been running the least amount of front kickup for some time now (1 dot down on the A block and 1 dot up on the B block) and recently convinced some guys to try it on their vehicles. All who have tried it have only had positive results.
As for the antisquat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:18 PM   #858
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Originally Posted by TheCore View Post
old pic, and yes, it a v1, but the horn fits the same.
Damn, got some tread on those tires bud.
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Old 05-18-2015, 08:45 PM   #859
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Damn, got some tread on those tires bud.
The core ,u on tonight, how did u get the little nut on servo turn buckle on ,did u leave the side off to put the nut on? Thnxz
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:01 PM   #860
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yeah. install the servo horn onto the linkage. fire up and center the servo, then install the horn onto the servo once it's centered. after that then set your epa and trim.
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:38 PM   #861
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
A great way to have the truck brake straighter and more controlled is to take kickup out of the front. I have been running the least amount of front kickup for some time now (1 dot down on the A block and 1 dot up on the B block) and recently convinced some guys to try it on their vehicles. All who have tried it have only had positive results.
As for the antisquat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
Thanks for the advice. I'll put my rear droop back to stock and change the front kickup. I'll see how that works then look at the rear antisquat.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:29 AM   #862
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Originally Posted by TheCore View Post
yeah. install the servo horn onto the linkage. fire up and center the servo, then install the horn onto the servo once it's centered. after that then set your epa and trim.
How did u get the nut on the steering bell crank
I got it nvm

Last edited by Aswild; 05-19-2015 at 07:55 AM.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:44 AM   #863
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Just line it up and push it in. The bellcrank will hold it there so you can run the screw in.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:46 AM   #864
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I was at a big race in Ohio and saw this cool trailer in the parking lot. Had to take a pic. Then one day on my way to work I saw the same trailer in my neighbors drive. I could not believe that I live right around the corner from this guy and we don't know each other. Anyone know who this guy is? PM me if anyone knows. Thanks
Judging by the sponsors, Id guess its Sean Ramos.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:44 AM   #865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
Just curious as to when the rear end gets loose. Is it when trying to make a turn after a high speed section or all the time? Mine is pretty planted. I did drop my brake strength and decreased my rear droop because my nose was drooping too when I hit the brakes at the end of the straight. However, I felt that was on me. I need to brake earlier and no so hard. I was also oversteering trying to get into the turn. I did some 360s last week at the end of the straight, but, after making the adjustments, I was good.
I didn't have any issues with the end being loose when braking. Only upon acceleration. Both in a straight line and coming out of a turn.
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Old 05-19-2015, 09:48 AM   #866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
A great way to have the truck brake straighter and more controlled is to take kickup out of the front. I have been running the least amount of front kickup for some time now (1 dot down on the A block and 1 dot up on the B block) and recently convinced some guys to try it on their vehicles. All who have tried it have only had positive results.
As for the anti-squat, I never run more than 2 degrees and I mostly run 1 degree. It really keeps the rear end planted into a turn and I don't feel I give up too much traction on power.
I thought less anti-squat transferred more weight to the rear thus giving more rear traction? Is that wrong? If I'm lacking rear traction due to a perceived lack of weight transfer I would want more anti-squat?

Less anti squat = a more shallow angle of the rear hinge pins correct? This would allow the rear to squat upon acceleration which would increase weight transfer to the rear. correct? More weight to the rear = more rear traction.

If I'm misunderstanding you or there is an error in my thinking please let me know.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:49 AM   #867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I don't think having all four is a needed expense personally unless something has changed on this vehicle versus the V1.

Tekno in general is trying to balance cost relative to what they can offer you in a package. It appears they added a lot of goodies to the vehicle, you will need to determine what you feel that is not there is a must have.

Personally, just start with the front hinge pin brace instead of all 4. Servo horn as well.

You can also use a cheaper horn assuming the steering assembly is the same on the new car. I did that with the V1s, just raised up the position of the access point on the steering arm then flipped the button head screw to come up from the bottom of the servo horn to clear it. Never had and issue and got the angles right too.
i went ahead and bought all 4 tekno hinge pin braces and the tekno servo arm. Worthwhile investment IMO, for durability.

I am still hoping they will release some upgraded shock towers.

I am impressed with the full option shock kits and will probably pick those up as well. The stock plastic spring retainer nuts always spin on my trucks and i always upgraded to the alum ones to prevent that.

Anyone recommend stocking up on the 5mm axle nuts? Curious how they last?
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:59 AM   #868
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
You are probably hitting the mud guard mounted to the front of the rear arm with the ribs on the inside of the rim. Dremel the mud guard until it easily clears. You don't want that thing grabbing the rim when it flexes.
Can you give a picture to show exactly what needs shaved off. It would be easier to shave something off of the truck, than have to shave all of my rims that won't work.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:19 PM   #869
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Originally Posted by rcdave905 View Post
Can you give a picture to show exactly what needs shaved off. It would be easier to shave something off of the truck, than have to shave all of my rims that won't work.

Thanks in advance.
Where is it rubbing? I assume you aren't running the mudguards like the EB48 has on the front of the rear arms, correct? They don't come with the .3 kit if that helps. I know on my DE wheels some of the ribs where it tapers down to the rim rub on the rear carriers on top where the link goes.
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Old 05-19-2015, 01:06 PM   #870
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Some of my rims work without hitting, and some do hit. And yes it is probably just the ribs on the inside of the rims hitting something.
Just thought if I could dremel something on the arm of my 410.3 instead of having to dremel the ribs on the rims, it would be easier.
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