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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-12-2015, 12:26 PM   #766
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
I pretty much only run emulsion style now but when i was using bladders it was suggested that I use the bleeder hole where the screw goes because then you can use the same caps for all three styles, standard bladder put screw in, vented leave screw out and emulsion put screw in. Hope this helps.
this would seem ideal.
is there an official reason that one cap can't do it all ?


on another note.. besides for adjustability is there any other reason to convert from v1 a, b, c, & d blocks to the V2 ?
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:35 PM   #767
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this would seem ideal.
is there an official reason that one cap can't do it all ?
Yes, because on emulsion style, the seal is on the bottom of the shock cap to below the threads on the body. With bladder style, the bladder seals the top of the shock cap to the top of the body. This is important because you drill a bleeder hole into the side of the threads for bladder style. If the same cap is used for emulsion, it no longer has a secure rubber seal from letting air into the shock. The hole in the side of the cap just has a couple of threads above it.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:37 PM   #768
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yes
Cool thanks ,thought so but was not sure.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:39 PM   #769
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Interesting....I'll stick with the bleeder hole. It gives true venting instead of attempting to vent through a fairly close fitting eyelet.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:01 PM   #770
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Interesting....I'll stick with the bleeder hole. It gives true venting instead of attempting to vent through a fairly close fitting eyelet.
This is how I vent mine. I also turn the cap so the hole is towards the center of the car to help keep dirt and dust out.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:34 PM   #771
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This is how I vent mine. I also turn the cap so the hole is towards the center of the car to help keep dirt and dust out.
That is what I did i used the vent hole an the hole in the middle of shock
So I will see how that works,thanks for all the comments great info.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:55 PM   #772
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Default Shocks done

Well shocks are done i thought the ones on my pro sc was big this thinks are huge,i measured for re bound on all 4 but was kinda hard with the rubber boot on.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:42 PM   #773
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Hello everyone, Anyone running the Novak 4phd/Crusher combo?
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:22 PM   #774
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So I tried using the plastic servo horn. (I had an aluminum on hand) The plastic horn lasted 2 battery packs before it stripped the splines. What a joke. Why even include that in the kit?
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Old 05-13-2015, 05:14 AM   #775
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Hello everyone, Anyone running the Novak 4phd/Crusher combo?
Hey bigguyJT ,i was looking at the same combo , look at my post over at rc short course , under moter combo , if u got a second.
NOVAK CRUSHER BALLISTIC 550 4X4 SCT BL SYSTEM (2-3S) NVK3086 this is the one i was looking at,
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:00 AM   #776
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I finally had some time to start building mine after work last night, got everything done except for the shocks. I'll get those tonight. I must say that this is the best kit I have ever built. The pakaging is organized and neat and each step uses the entire bag of coordinated parts. Everything fits perfectly, even the screws screw in smooth and effortlessly. This is is my 3rd Tekno build and definitely wont be my last. The LCG motor mount makes it pretty hard to get the motor in but it's not impossible. I'm going to run mostly the stock setup except for 5k front diff and Trifex pistons with 35f/32.5r and go from there. Can't wait to get this thing on the track and compare it to my first gen.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:09 AM   #777
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Originally Posted by BigGuyJT View Post
Hello everyone, Anyone running the Novak 4phd/Crusher combo?
You could save a bit of money by just buying the Tenshock 550 4pole. Its the same exact motor, Novak is just rebranding them.
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So I tried using the plastic servo horn. (I had an aluminum on hand) The plastic horn lasted 2 battery packs before it stripped the splines. What a joke. Why even include that in the kit?
Better to give you something rather than nothing. they could include all 3 aluminum horns, but that would add a significant amount to the cost. Then people would complain the price is too high because they supply 2 extra horns you don't need.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:15 AM   #778
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Trifex pistons with 35f/32.5r and go from there. Can't wait to get this thing on the track and compare it to my first gen.
i have a set of these to play with, have your tried them in your v1 or is this your first time using them ?



.. if i upgrade towers, arms, hubs and spindles on my v1 do the links need to be changed as well or are the links the same v1 & v3 ?
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:26 AM   #779
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i have a set of these to play with, have your tried them in your v1 or is this your first time using them ?



.. if i upgrade towers, arms, hubs and spindles on my v1 do the links need to be changed as well or are the links the same v1 & v3 ?
You could re-use the links from the V1, the .3 has links and ends that are just smaller in diameter.
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Old 05-13-2015, 06:41 AM   #780
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You could re-use the links from the V1, the .3 has links and ends that are just smaller in diameter.
much appreciated. i grabbed one of pete's upgrade packs and just wanted to be sure it was everything i needed.
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