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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-12-2015, 05:53 AM   #751
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Yup, its the bleeder screw hole.
So after building shock, do I leave the bleeder screw hole open, or do I put the screw and washer in? When building vented bladder way.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:07 AM   #752
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Originally Posted by rcdave905 View Post
So after building shock, do I leave the bleeder screw hole open, or do I put the screw and washer in? When building vented bladder way.
If you want to build just vented bladder shocks you drill one 1-2mm hole straight up thru the top of the cap into the hole where the bushing sits for mounting in addition to the side bleeder on the cap. Don't do anything with the emulsion bleeder hole where the screw goes, leave it closed. I suppose if you drilled thru the emulsion bleed hole instead of the top it would serve the same purpose, just leave the screw out.

Last edited by Tijuana_Taxi; 05-12-2015 at 06:18 AM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:09 AM   #753
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Originally Posted by rcdave905 View Post
Okay almost done build. What a smooth easy build.
Okay first let me say I have built many many cars and trucks, but want to verify what to do before I drill shock caps.
Per the instructions to build vented bladder shocks it says to drill 2 holes in each cap.
First hole is where the threads are to allow oil to bleed out when tightening the cap, but no mention of where to drill second hole.
If it is where bleeder screw where hole is drilled to do emulsion style, after build do you put screw into this hole?
I prefer bladder style shocks and want to build it this way, just a little confused.

The side of the shock cape u see a dimple and also the bleder cap,is my understanding but thats coming from some one who has never ever built one , lol

Last edited by Aswild; 05-12-2015 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 05-12-2015, 06:21 AM   #754
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
If you want to build just vented bladder shocks you drill one 1-2mm hole straight up thru the top of the cap into the hole where the bushing sits for mounting in addition to the side bleeder on the cap. Don't do anything with the emulsion bleeder hole where the screw goes, leave it closed. I suppose if you drilled thru the emulsion bleed hole instead of the top it would serve the same purpose, just leave the screw out.
This is correct. For vented, drill side hole where threads are for bleeding, and straight through the top of the cap and the vent will be in the opening where the shock mounts. DO NOT drill where the screw is unless you want to build emulsion shocks.

Personally, I like the vented.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:00 AM   #755
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Originally Posted by Everybody79x View Post
How much of a necessity is the aluminum servo horn? I've never needed one on any other 2wd 1/10 car.
Your 2wd vehicles also don't weigh in at 7lbs, and have forces constantly trying to keep them straight.
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Does anyone know if you need to sand the servo saver to get it to seat properly similar to the ET48?
You should not. There was a run a while back where the servo saver mold had a flaw, and there was a gap in the cam section. This has since been addressed.
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Originally Posted by karbroSCT View Post
So if I install the aluminium wheel hexes (TKR5571A) what wheels will fit the truck, SCTE ones?
SCTE offset are what the truck was designed around.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcdave905 View Post
Okay almost done build. What a smooth easy build.
Okay first let me say I have built many many cars and trucks, but want to verify what to do before I drill shock caps.
Per the instructions to build vented bladder shocks it says to drill 2 holes in each cap.
First hole is where the threads are to allow oil to bleed out when tightening the cap, but no mention of where to drill second hole.
If it is where bleeder screw where hole is drilled to do emulsion style, after build do you put screw into this hole?
I prefer bladder style shocks and want to build it this way, just a little confused.
Kit location is in the bottom of the shock up through the center into the mount hole. You could drill the bleed ole as well. Would give the same effect. Just remember that if you go with the kit location, you will need to buy new caps to do an emulsion build.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:29 AM   #756
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Originally Posted by Tijuana_Taxi View Post
If you want to build just vented bladder shocks you drill one 1-2mm hole straight up thru the top of the cap into the hole where the bushing sits for mounting in addition to the side bleeder on the cap. Don't do anything with the emulsion bleeder hole where the screw goes, leave it closed. I suppose if you drilled thru the emulsion bleed hole instead of the top it would serve the same purpose, just leave the screw out.
So i have a 1.5 mil drill bit is it to big to use for the holes ?
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:31 AM   #757
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i used the emulsion bleeder (the angled hole if thats the same thing) as the vent, worked fine.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:39 AM   #758
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So i have a 1.5 mil drill bit is it to big to use for the holes ?
That will work fine.
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Old 05-12-2015, 07:42 AM   #759
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Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
So i have a 1.5 mil drill bit is it to big to use for the holes ?
Sounds about perfect.
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:00 AM   #760
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Sounds about perfect.
Thanks guys .
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:50 AM   #761
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Thank you guys for quick replies. Can't wait to finish build and test it out this weekend.
Building it for dirt and clay tracks, but will be testing it on indoor carpet track.
Only thing open up here in the Great White North. Lol. Actually Just outside Toronto.
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Old 05-12-2015, 09:37 AM   #762
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I pretty much only run emulsion style now but when i was using bladders it was suggested that I use the bleeder hole where the screw goes because then you can use the same caps for all three styles, standard bladder put screw in, vented leave screw out and emulsion put screw in. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-12-2015, 10:36 AM   #763
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Default Drill hole

So were it says drill hole in top of shock cap ,does the hole go all the way thru to the eyelet?
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:40 AM   #764
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Originally Posted by Aswild View Post
So were it says drill hole in top of shock cap ,does the hole go all the way thru to the eyelet?
yes
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Old 05-12-2015, 11:52 AM   #765
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Default shock caps

Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-tkr6003s_3.jpg

From Tekno's website, a picture of there vented caps.
I tried to circle in white the top hole that goes to the eyelet.
The red arrows show where the holes are to be drilled.
Didn't know this until after I asked and looked.
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