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Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-16-2017, 05:27 AM   #5221
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Question for you guys. My buddy has a Losi 8ight-E and 8ight-N, also a SCTe.

Every week when we race has dnf's because some breaks. weather it be something diff related, esc, motor, servo, etc...

Lately I haven't been able to run much and whenever I comment on him breaking stuff he just says its because he actually runs his stuff.

Now I know my Tekno SCT410.3and EB/NB 48.3 have both help up very good. I just now had my first real break (snapped a dogbone and outdrive is pretty mangled). But my diffs are bulletproof, a-arms are still good.... my Tekin esc/motor's feel like day 1, and my mks servo's are amazing...

Now he buys chinese electronics for the most part and they break constantly....

I was wondering how long do most of you think common parts like A-arms, diffs, shocks, etc should last. He has blown through diffs and pinions like candy... I feel like hes doing something wrong, but he won't admit it. I know that AE parts feel cheap and thin compared to my Tekno, and I feel like TLR is still decent quality, but he is replacing stuff on a weekly basis for the most part.

So if I could just get some basic wear and tear timeframes for common parts id appreciate it so I can talk to him about it. How many races would you say you get out of certain parts?
Besides hinge pins, shock shafts, and spur gears (I run on loose loamy tracks) everything else last's at least a season. My .3 buggy is still going strong after a year and half of service. Actually just went over it to sell, and it doesn't need anything.

My SCT, and buggy I Usually rebuild with a full bearing kit between seasons. (SCT before going indoors, and vice versa) And replace parts as needed, which normally doesn't amount to much. My truggy is just now at the point where I may throw new hubs on, and I'm at the end of season 2 with it. I put new front arms on before a big race this spring, JUST to tighten things up. The ones I took off are still in my box of spares, because they can still be run.

Losi guys, from what I have seen, throw parts at their cars about every other week. Seems they slop out pretty quick.

I have a buddy that ran losi for a season, switched to AE briefly before switching to Tekno. Since he has switched to tekno, he keeps asking what upgrades...Still isn't use to the fact that the Tekno doesn't need anything for durability.
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Old 08-16-2017, 06:41 AM   #5222
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my daughter managed to pop a front diff cup, haven't seen that before with a tekno but she can find parts that are weak lol. Gives me a reason to give her vehicle a rebuild I guess
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Old 08-16-2017, 12:22 PM   #5223
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Do the people that constantly break AE cars use them as battering rams or something? Can't see any subtler way to accomplish that
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Old 08-16-2017, 12:25 PM   #5224
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The whole CST to wt conversion is tricky. I would say 35/30 or 37.5/32,5 should get you pretty close on oils for shocks. I also switched to 10-7-5 for diff oils, but recently tried a truck that had 10-10-10, and found it very easy to drive. I plan to have a separate set of diffs ready and built to swap in and out to try out for my next race.

I would take a look at the recommended indoor setup on teknorc.com for overall setup to start.



I'm usually in the mid 20's outdoors (22-23), and get pretty low indoors.
Yeah I'm at 19 F/R ride height per the recommended setup Diffs are at 7-7-5, will bump up the middle to 10K tonight for racing to see if I can get more pop from the center diff. I'm switching oils from TLR to PT to see if I notice a difference in the suspension. So far the switches I have made have been extremely noticeable in the truck, so it is sensitive to setup changes which is good. Most are saying they don't bother messing with the droop screws, however I am running low frequency springs, and running full droop causes the shock springs teeter on the spring lower cup, and do not sit against the upper adjuster. It wasn't until I changed to the actual shock to the suggested stroke/length that the spring is not how it should be.
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Old 08-16-2017, 01:21 PM   #5225
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Do the people that constantly break AE cars use them as battering rams or something? Can't see any subtler way to accomplish that
there's nothing wrong with associated , it is what it is . A light weight racing machine. Slapping 6s in it a running it into a wall will cause it to break. Tekno is very durable and good machine , but it's a heavy weght. Tekno and associated, different strokes for different folks
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Old 08-19-2017, 03:57 PM   #5226
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What body are you guys running. I recently bought a body for another vehicle but don't see it lasting long on a tekno vehicle.
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Old 08-19-2017, 04:54 PM   #5227
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proline 2500 Ram
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Old 08-21-2017, 09:22 AM   #5228
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What body are you guys running. I recently bought a body for another vehicle but don't see it lasting long on a tekno vehicle.
I've ran a bunch. The evo isn't on my list to try again. The fusion body worked well, and I still use it for practice, but I always come back to the jcon f250 illusion body.

And no SCT body will last very long....Unless you drive without crashing, or getting crashed into...which I don't see many doing that, so...
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Old 08-21-2017, 12:08 PM   #5229
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Default carpet w/ new springs

Anyone try rocking the new springs on carpet yet?
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Old 08-21-2017, 01:24 PM   #5230
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Anyone try rocking the new springs on carpet yet?
Not yet, but with the LF springs, you can get really low. So I would imagine 17mm ride height up front easily attainable if you so desired. You could get lower, but not sure where you would want to.
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Old 08-21-2017, 02:52 PM   #5231
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Not yet, but with the LF springs, you can get really low. So I would imagine 17mm ride height up front easily attainable if you so desired. You could get lower, but not sure where you would want to.
thanks for the update ezlight...

Also, most of us running indoor turf/carpet ran softer springs than we otherwise would have liked, to get appropriate ride height.

Bet you this chassis is stunning on carpet/turf with a proper setup with the new springs.
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Old 08-22-2017, 07:03 AM   #5232
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thanks for the update ezlight...

Also, most of us running indoor turf/carpet ran softer springs than we otherwise would have liked, to get appropriate ride height.

Bet you this chassis is stunning on carpet/turf with a proper setup with the new springs.
I would imagine people will love it more, being able to run the stiffer springs, AND attain the ride height they want. I'll be going to turf in the next month or 2 on occasion, so can't wait....Plus try out my 2wd conversion..
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:15 AM   #5233
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well I found what I think was the reason my daughter busted the diff cup. The screw going into the front hub carrier fell out of the bottom, so it let it flex far enough back that it must have popped the cup.

She needs a rebuild anyway so I am going to look into that probably today to get her vehicle ready for thursday.
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Old 08-22-2017, 08:25 AM   #5234
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well I found what I think was the reason my daughter busted the diff cup. The screw going into the front hub carrier fell out of the bottom, so it let it flex far enough back that it must have popped the cup.

She needs a rebuild anyway so I am going to look into that probably today to get her vehicle ready for thursday.
For the caster, or the spindle? I find the spindle screws are notorious for backing out. 90% of my DNF's with sct...A little dab of glue will do to hold it in place.
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Old 08-22-2017, 10:58 AM   #5235
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For the caster, or the spindle? I find the spindle screws are notorious for backing out. 90% of my DNF's with sct...A little dab of glue will do to hold it in place.
spindle (the ones that you put in vertical). She didn't loose the insert though so thats a plus.

Yeah I remember one falling out on my old vehicle . It would be cool if they could have some sort of better retaining method though not sure how. something like another screw that butts up against it like how we hold in hingepins.

All in all though still good to see the vehicle take a beating. Its a tough sucker.


So, here is a question for those running carpet, for the new LF springs what are you find are great to start with?
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