219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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05-15-2017, 09:36 AM
#4936
That's what I was afraid of
And I try to explain the whole 2s 3s to people but they always seem to think that going to 3s gives you some kind of super power
I'll just get a 4300kv and call it good
By they way, this is for a Tekno SCT 410.3, LOL didn't want anyone to think I was just thread hijacking
And I try to explain the whole 2s 3s to people but they always seem to think that going to 3s gives you some kind of super power
I'll just get a 4300kv and call it good
By they way, this is for a Tekno SCT 410.3, LOL didn't want anyone to think I was just thread hijacking
05-15-2017, 09:45 PM
#4937
Tech Apprentice
Can someone with the Hobbywing XR8 SCT setup post some photos of how you ran your wires? If I run it this way in the photo the power cable and receiver wire will be rubbing against the drive shaft (even if I pull it really tight under the tray). If I flip it the other way then those wires are hanging out of the truck and won't look as nice. Anyone running this same setup?
05-15-2017, 10:12 PM
#4938
turn it 90 degrees so the switch wire and rx wire is pointing toward the motor. run the motor wires over the fan. If you solder them on straight up and down off the ESC post it will not rest on top of the fan and will still cool plenty fine. That is how most do it and no one ever has complained of problems.
In all actuality, the ESC should really be mounted behind the battery tray much like the SCTE. Those who have done it have found a much better balance and rear end traction/rotation with the 410.3 that way, without the need to add counter weights or buy the popular but expensive M2C 10mm battery back chassis.
In all actuality, the ESC should really be mounted behind the battery tray much like the SCTE. Those who have done it have found a much better balance and rear end traction/rotation with the 410.3 that way, without the need to add counter weights or buy the popular but expensive M2C 10mm battery back chassis.
05-16-2017, 07:34 AM
#4939
Tech Master
That's what I was afraid of
And I try to explain the whole 2s 3s to people but they always seem to think that going to 3s gives you some kind of super power
I'll just get a 4300kv and call it good
By they way, this is for a Tekno SCT 410.3, LOL didn't want anyone to think I was just thread hijacking
And I try to explain the whole 2s 3s to people but they always seem to think that going to 3s gives you some kind of super power
I'll just get a 4300kv and call it good
By they way, this is for a Tekno SCT 410.3, LOL didn't want anyone to think I was just thread hijacking
05-16-2017, 09:05 AM
#4940
know a guy using the SMC motor in his eb48SL on 2S. lots of power and seemed to run cool too. I run a maclan motor and its great, but I was pretty impressed with the SMC motor and thats coming from someone who has had a variety of motors at one time or another.
05-16-2017, 09:21 AM
#4941
+1 on the SMC. It runs cool and better yet, it's cheap so it's not going to hit your wallet too hard. And if you're running on a medium track, it's got enough grunt to allow you to turn the EPA down a bit to prolong run times and keep your electronics happier 
05-16-2017, 11:36 AM
#4942
Tech Apprentice
So if I turn it like this I run into some potential issues.
#1, the power and receiver wire will still butt up agains the motor. While at least this location it won't be rubbing against a moving part, don't I risk heat getting to those wires?
#2, is it okay that this is right up next to the Servo? I don't think it will be an issue as I have clearance in turning both right and left.
#3, is it okay that the ESC won't have as solid a footing on the tray underneath?
#1, the power and receiver wire will still butt up agains the motor. While at least this location it won't be rubbing against a moving part, don't I risk heat getting to those wires?
#2, is it okay that this is right up next to the Servo? I don't think it will be an issue as I have clearance in turning both right and left.
#3, is it okay that the ESC won't have as solid a footing on the tray underneath?
05-16-2017, 11:38 AM
#4943
So if I turn it like this I run into some potential issues.
#1, the power and receiver wire will still butt up agains the motor. While at least this location it won't be rubbing against a moving part, don't I risk heat getting to those wires?
#2, is it okay that this is right up next to the Servo? I don't think it will be an issue as I have clearance in turning both right and left.
#3, is it okay that the ESC won't have as solid a footing on the tray underneath?
#1, the power and receiver wire will still butt up agains the motor. While at least this location it won't be rubbing against a moving part, don't I risk heat getting to those wires?
#2, is it okay that this is right up next to the Servo? I don't think it will be an issue as I have clearance in turning both right and left.
#3, is it okay that the ESC won't have as solid a footing on the tray underneath?
EDIT: and just keep a careful eye when you're soldering next to the SERVO. Don't wanna melt anything lol
05-16-2017, 02:06 PM
#4944
Tech Apprentice
05-16-2017, 07:18 PM
#4949
05-16-2017, 10:30 PM
#4950
So if I turn it like this I run into some potential issues.
#1, the power and receiver wire will still butt up agains the motor. While at least this location it won't be rubbing against a moving part, don't I risk heat getting to those wires?
#2, is it okay that this is right up next to the Servo? I don't think it will be an issue as I have clearance in turning both right and left.
#3, is it okay that the ESC won't have as solid a footing on the tray underneath?
#1, the power and receiver wire will still butt up agains the motor. While at least this location it won't be rubbing against a moving part, don't I risk heat getting to those wires?
#2, is it okay that this is right up next to the Servo? I don't think it will be an issue as I have clearance in turning both right and left.
#3, is it okay that the ESC won't have as solid a footing on the tray underneath?
Alternately you can just bend the exposed wire 90 degrees before you tin the ends. This will cause them to hold the angle, yet keep the wires running vertical from the post just as it would if you soldered them straight up and and down. I hope I am explaining it in a way that you can visualize what I am trying to tell you.
2/3 - you can still afford a few mm of clearance and don't need to butt the ESC right upto the servo bracket. Use grey automotive grade double sided tape. Be sure to clean the bottom of the ESC and the tray with some alcohol real good before you stick the tape to either. This will ensure you get a hard stick to the surfaces. You don't need to cover but about half of the ESC bottom to get it to stay put.
You're going to love that motor ESC combo. Im my opinion it's the best out there at the moment and I personally prefer that combo over the Tekin stuff any day of the week. It's a power house that will stay cool and rip that truck a new one with a good battery behind it.