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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-31-2016, 02:23 PM   #4576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
the modification note wrongly list the camber link #5550 as the part needed to be cut instead of the steering link #5123

"In order to obtain positive static toe, both left and right steering turnbuckles for the EB/NB48 (TKR5050) and SCT410/EB48SL (TKR5550) will need to be shortened by approx 6mm (3mm on each side of both turnbuckles)."
What mod are you guys referring to that we have to cut parts ?
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Old 12-31-2016, 03:46 PM   #4577
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What mod are you guys referring to that we have to cut parts ?
The steering camber links have to be cut for the new steering system.
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Old 12-31-2016, 09:22 PM   #4578
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Where does it say that ?
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:14 PM   #4579
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what parts are needed to upgrade to a .3?
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Old 12-31-2016, 10:24 PM   #4580
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
The steering camber links have to be cut for the new steering system.
Where does it state that in the new setup guide ?
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Old 12-31-2016, 11:58 PM   #4581
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Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
Chickened out for now, back to my standard set-up for tomorrow night racing LOL..

I want to try the new set-up, but I will wait until I have the new front steering parts.
(already have the rear hubs)
You got 4th in the amain, you didn't do that bad. My truck was so bad that I didn't even start the main and I just went home. lol Plus, my body was toast!
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:04 AM   #4582
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Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
The steering camber links have to be cut for the new steering system.
I would rather not cut anything. Is there not a steering buckle that we can just purchase?
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Old 01-01-2017, 06:54 AM   #4583
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You could do lunsfords and I think associateds 50mm turnbuckles could work at least based on length. I am assuming the TKR5550 now I look into it more may not work because the ends are thicker instead of 4mm needed.
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:51 AM   #4584
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Right, TKR5550 has a 5mm thread instead of 4mm needed for the steering links.

Like Cain said you can purchase some 50mm links with 4mm thread as an alternative. I didn't want to cut mine either. Took me over two weeks to decide to do it. It went smoother than anticipated using a dremel cutoff wheel. Either way, new link or cutting the existing link, try to make sure you keep the same thread pattern on the plastic so you are not cross-threading it.

Last edited by qstorm777; 01-01-2017 at 12:06 PM.
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:54 AM   #4585
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Hey guys, I've been stripping servo horns out lately and have determined my servo saver was too tight. I've loosened it up a bit and bought the Tekno Aluminum servo horn (TKR5253B). I'm confused because it's a clamping horn but didn't come with the pinch bolt to actually clamp it. The smaller Tekno clamping horns all come with the pinch bolt so I'm a bit stumped as to what to do with it? Thanks!
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Old 01-01-2017, 07:57 AM   #4586
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Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
Where does it state that in the new setup guide ?
I don't believe it does, but the current link is too long to set the proper front toe. It will break thru the steering link plastic ends as you try to get 0 or 1 deg toe out.
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Old 01-01-2017, 11:43 AM   #4587
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Originally Posted by Theoldguy View Post
Hey guys, I've been stripping servo horns out lately and have determined my servo saver was too tight. I've loosened it up a bit and bought the Tekno Aluminum servo horn (TKR5253B). I'm confused because it's a clamping horn but didn't come with the pinch bolt to actually clamp it. The smaller Tekno clamping horns all come with the pinch bolt so I'm a bit stumped as to what to do with it? Thanks!
So it didn't come with any screw at all? The clamping horns now use an M3 screw so any M3x8mm (I think it's 8mm, maybe 10mm) button head or cap head screw will work.

With regards to stripping servo horns, are they the plastic ones or are you stripping aluminum ones? If it's just the plastic ones go ahead and tighten your servo saver back up, if it's too loose you're steering will feel inconsistent and mushy. We're all running the new bellcrank setup with the solid bellcrank, no saver at all. Also use the inside hole on your new servo horn, better steering resolution and less force transmitted to the servo.
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Old 01-01-2017, 12:55 PM   #4588
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
So it didn't come with any screw at all? The clamping horns now use an M3 screw so any M3x8mm (I think it's 8mm, maybe 10mm) button head or cap head screw will work.

With regards to stripping servo horns, are they the plastic ones or are you stripping aluminum ones? If it's just the plastic ones go ahead and tighten your servo saver back up, if it's too loose you're steering will feel inconsistent and mushy. We're all running the new bellcrank setup with the solid bellcrank, no saver at all. Also use the inside hole on your new servo horn, better steering resolution and less force transmitted to the servo.
I should've specified, sorry. It came with the M3 bolt to tighten the horn to the servo, but it didn't come with the pinch bolt that serves to "clamp" the horn from the back.

Again, I should've specified, I'm running an AE RC8.2e. Sorry to post here but I figured you guys running Tekno might be able to help me. Sorry if I've breached etiquette!
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Old 01-01-2017, 01:03 PM   #4589
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Originally Posted by Theoldguy View Post
I should've specified, sorry. It came with the M3 bolt to tighten the horn to the servo, but it didn't come with the pinch bolt that serves to "clamp" the horn from the back.

Again, I should've specified, I'm running an AE RC8.2e. Sorry to post here but I figured you guys running Tekno might be able to help me. Sorry if I've breached etiquette!
It only comes with the pinch bolt, not the bolt to tighten it to the servo.
Don't worry about posting here, glad to help, but I would still tighten your servo saver back up .
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Old 01-01-2017, 01:09 PM   #4590
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Ok, so what parts (tekno part numbers ) do I need to adjust the toe to 0 ? The original set up sheet has the front toe at .5
There that much off a difference in the .5 to the new recommended 0 , that we have to cut something ?
Someone please explain this to me like I'm a six year old , cause I don't understand.

And what method do you guys use to measure toe?
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