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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-26-2016, 05:47 AM   #4546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Before being sponsored by Proline, Jeremy McGuigan swore by the Jconcepts Ford F250 Super duty XLT supercab
It's the only body I know of that has as large of a built in wing as significant as it is and he said it really kept the rear down as well.
+1 love that body. Rear end stays glued
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Old 12-26-2016, 02:29 PM   #4547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Hi Cain,
You might be talking about an EB48.3 setup. Those have been developed for dirt. I personally dont have experience with carpet but would recommend using heavier springs and swaybars beyond that would roll center and camber link changes. Most likely moving the camber links down on the tower.

Will pass along the idea for the hubs.
This is the setup I am going with with a changes, but basically this:

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...0Astroturf.pdf

For that general purpose setup was thinking what could be changed from that to go with for carpet / super high traction.

Got in another SCT410.3 and it has alloy caps and some other upgrade, excellent condition. Excited to get that together for my girls.
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Old 12-26-2016, 03:53 PM   #4548
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Before being sponsored by Proline, Jeremy McGuigan swore by the Jconcepts Ford F250 Super duty XLT supercab
It's the only body I know of that has as large of a built in wing as significant as it is and he said it really kept the rear down as well.
I used that body to my tekno410.3 before but not happy i heard from Jeremy too but when i tried its sucks it's better for me Jconcept HF2 or Proline Flo-tek. Also the parma SPEEDFLO but not durable as like the proline flo-tek.
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Old 12-26-2016, 05:28 PM   #4549
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I'll be giving this one a try, mainly as I liked the styling:

https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...00-clear-body/



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Old 12-26-2016, 06:23 PM   #4550
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One of my friend's run that dodge shell. He seems to like it and seems to do well with it.
But I got to be honest, I have raced stuff like the 64 ford body from proline and set fast lap of the day records with it as well. I know the shells help and all, but I think people put more faith in most of them than what they actually do at the speeds we are mostly running at.
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Old 12-26-2016, 06:33 PM   #4551
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Originally Posted by Cain View Post
I'll be giving this one a try, mainly as I liked the styling:

https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies...00-clear-body/



Cool. Looks like the same rear as the jconcepts titan body.
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Old 12-26-2016, 07:26 PM   #4552
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yeah I bought my first truck few months ago so figured this would be my mini version of it lol.
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Old 12-27-2016, 01:03 PM   #4553
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriveItLikeYSIT View Post
Hi matt. i have 8x1.3mm cnc pistons. would the new setup
work with 1.3 pistons instead of 1.4mm?
Hi DriveItLikeYSIT, those would be good but recommend enlarging the holes to 1.4 if you can. If you choose to use the 8x1.3 pistons you will want to go down in shock oil about 50 cst from what I recommended.
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Old 12-27-2016, 01:30 PM   #4554
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Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
It sure was
I swapped the shafts out for new ones...still binding. I noticed that if I backed off the caps that hold the seals in, everything freed up. Is it possible to overtighten these?
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Old 12-28-2016, 05:54 AM   #4555
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Hi RookieRacer00,
How old are the seals? After time they do swell and need to be replaced. Also if you are using the black shock guides, recommend verifying that all of the flashing has been removed. If any flashing is left it can cause the shock to bind.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RookieRacer00 View Post
I swapped the shafts out for new ones...still binding. I noticed that if I backed off the caps that hold the seals in, everything freed up. Is it possible to overtighten these?
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:40 AM   #4556
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Hi RookieRacer00,
How old are the seals? After time they do swell and need to be replaced. Also if you are using the black shock guides, recommend verifying that all of the flashing has been removed. If any flashing is left it can cause the shock to bind.
The seals are original and only have about 8 or so races on them. I do have the black guides. I will check to see if there's any flashing left on them. There was flashing on the valves/pistons which I did remove and this seemed to help somewhat. Thanks for the help.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:56 AM   #4557
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Just replaced both drive shafts. Front was warped. The rear war worn. On the rear one drive shaft, the pins on center diff side were worn almost half the way through. Pins on the rear diff side were fine. Is this normal wear and tear? I'm racing it on an off-road packed and groomed dirt track. Another guy at the track who is really fast says he has warped the front drive shaft as well.
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Old 12-29-2016, 03:38 PM   #4558
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Default cliff set-up changes

Matt,
My shock pistons and drill bit arrived today and I've now made the changes to my truck following your new set-up sheet. I'm very curious to see how my truck is going to handle. The changes are very big compared to what I have been running. The track is a large indoor track, bumpy, hard packed with a ton of traction (we have been running it dry). Tomorrow is race night, I plan to go in the afternoon and run a few battery packs to see if I like it. The current set-up I have been running is hooked up and works great for me... (posted below). The one thing I am looking for is a little more controlled speed out of the corners. And I asked Santa for a little help with my driving skills... but...

Changes I made:
1. Akerman forward
2. Ackerman washers
3. Front camber link
4. Front shock at the tower
5. Kick-up (from 11 to 9)
6. Sweep (from 0 to -1)
7. Rear shock at the tower
8. Anti squat (from 2 to 0) (not sure if I am reading yours correct?)
9. Ride height.. normally run 25 (body off) due to bumpy track.
10. Camber (minor change, will probably leave rear a -3 due to bumps)
11. Rear sway bar from 2.5 to 2.4
12. Shocks length (full travel is the same as the dimensions you noted)
13. Wheel base (3mm to 4 front)
14. Shock oil to 35f/25r AE
15. Pistons (6x1.5 to 8x1.4)
16. Front spring (green to black)

I went to the track yesterday and went ahead and tried a 17t pinion.. WOW!!! Woke the motor up big time. And I re-adjusted the speed control as you suggested (worked great). I was able to take out the throttle expo I have been using.

How important is it to get the updated steering parts 8100 & 8104? I over looked those on your set-up sheet. Ooops.
edit.. after looking up the parts and reading about them I think I answered my question.
Thanks
Cliff
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:22 PM   #4559
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Lowspark,
Thanks for giving the setup a try. Highly recommend the new steering ackermann and bellcranks, they are a big part of the setup along with the HRC hubs. Might want to reduce the droop on high traction if it tends to transfer too much weight and traction roll. Other than that the truck should be pretty good. Yes that is 0 degrees of antisquat.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lowspark View Post
Matt,
My shock pistons and drill bit arrived today and I've now made the changes to my truck following your new set-up sheet. I'm very curious to see how my truck is going to handle. The changes are very big compared to what I have been running. The track is a large indoor track, bumpy, hard packed with a ton of traction (we have been running it dry). Tomorrow is race night, I plan to go in the afternoon and run a few battery packs to see if I like it. The current set-up I have been running is hooked up and works great for me... (posted below). The one thing I am looking for is a little more controlled speed out of the corners. And I asked Santa for a little help with my driving skills... but...

Changes I made:
1. Akerman forward
2. Ackerman washers
3. Front camber link
4. Front shock at the tower
5. Kick-up (from 11 to 9)
6. Sweep (from 0 to -1)
7. Rear shock at the tower
8. Anti squat (from 2 to 0) (not sure if I am reading yours correct?)
9. Ride height.. normally run 25 (body off) due to bumpy track.
10. Camber (minor change, will probably leave rear a -3 due to bumps)
11. Rear sway bar from 2.5 to 2.4
12. Shocks length (full travel is the same as the dimensions you noted)
13. Wheel base (3mm to 4 front)
14. Shock oil to 35f/25r AE
15. Pistons (6x1.5 to 8x1.4)
16. Front spring (green to black)

I went to the track yesterday and went ahead and tried a 17t pinion.. WOW!!! Woke the motor up big time. And I re-adjusted the speed control as you suggested (worked great). I was able to take out the throttle expo I have been using.

How important is it to get the updated steering parts 8100 & 8104? I over looked those on your set-up sheet. Ooops.
edit.. after looking up the parts and reading about them I think I answered my question.
Thanks
Cliff
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Old 12-29-2016, 05:02 PM   #4560
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Will there be additional set up sheets coming out soon ? Just find it odd that the newest set up sheet is supposed to be for indoor and outdoor....how can it work for both conditions ?
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