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Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 12-21-2016, 05:47 AM   #4516
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Originally Posted by bds81175 View Post
Bent shock shaft. Replace them and you should be fine. What caused it? Most likely an epic crash that made the crowd go "Ohhhh!!!!"
When mine did this it was the shock body actually was slightly bent. I couldn't tell from just looking at it. When I put a new one on it didn't do it anymore.
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Old 12-21-2016, 05:51 AM   #4517
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on the .3, has anyone tried running the old rear shocktower on the rear to help with the rear end sliding? I left but came back LOL...I purchased a brand new .3 sct. I didn't drill the holes but had the old rear shock tower. I put the HRC hubs on and am going to run the longest link I can.
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Old 12-21-2016, 08:26 AM   #4518
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on the .3, has anyone tried running the old rear shocktower on the rear to help with the rear end sliding? I left but came back LOL...I purchased a brand new .3 sct. I didn't drill the holes but had the old rear shock tower. I put the HRC hubs on and am going to run the longest link I can.
haha..same boat. I sold my sct410.3 a couple months ago. It was used, i was the second owner. it had the battery mod/esc in the back, etc. I have an EB48.3 with alot of compatible parts. I'm thinking of getting a new sct410.3 kit and starting over (xmas gift to me!). I didn't have any nose down issues but the loose rear on power I could not figure out. Tried everything. Winter now but i'll be on large 1/8 type track loose dirt, long straight, sweepers on each end which is where the rear would give me problems. With this type of track, what diff oils and shock oils would guys recommend starting with? Or just go with stock and go from there?

Last edited by dogbone418; 12-21-2016 at 08:48 AM.
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:51 AM   #4519
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15-15-10 diffs
425-375 shocks
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Old 12-21-2016, 09:52 AM   #4520
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wow that heavy diff oil on a loose track?
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Old 12-21-2016, 11:17 AM   #4521
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wow that heavy diff oil on a loose track?
Yeah sorry. It's not a loose dirt track. Hard pack dirt inside track.

It's Jeremy Mcguigan's setup on 1/17/2016.

http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/#tabs-1464471279125
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Old 12-21-2016, 12:55 PM   #4522
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Ok. i know there is alot of discussion on this in the thread. my head is spinning..so if I want the least anti-squat possible, which is what 1 or 0 degrees?, what pills do i need in the stock C and D blocks? Center dot down on the C and Center dot up on the D? what's the math there if that's it?
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Old 12-21-2016, 01:15 PM   #4523
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Originally Posted by dogbone418 View Post
Ok. i know there is alot of discussion on this in the thread. my head is spinning..so if I want the least anti-squat possible, which is what 1 or 0 degrees?, what pills do i need in the stock C and D blocks? Center dot down on the C and Center dot up on the D? what's the math there if that's it?
There's a really good explanation of this a few months back. Good back some pages and check it out.
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Old 12-21-2016, 01:32 PM   #4524
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Quote:
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Howdy guys...
understanding the how the dots on the pills is pretty simple once you grasp the concept. I will use the rear toe as an example.

Start with the C-block having one dot in the center. And the D-block having one dot in the center. That is the stock setting of 3 degrees of rear toe-in.

Now just changing the D-block pill. Keeping the pill on the center line, but the dot is now on the outside. You have changed the angle of the hinge pin 1 degree. You will now have 4 degrees of read toe-in.
If you use a pill with two dots (still on the center line) to the outside, 2-dots is only a half of degree of change. You would then have 3.5 degrees of toe-in.
This would work the same if you moved the dots to the inside instead of the outside. You would end up with 2.5 degrees using the 2-dot pill or 2 degrees if you used the 1-dot pill.

So single dots equal a 1-degree of angle on the hinge pin.
and two dots equal a .5-degree of angle on the hinge pin.

This works the same in each block.
If you move the center line dot on the C-block to the outside (single dot) and the center line dots on the D-block to the outside (single dot). You will still have the same 3 degrees you started with because you moved them both the same amount.
On the other hand if you move the C-block to the inside (single dot) and the D-block to the outside (single dot) you will now have 5 degrees of rear toe in...

the same applies for anti-squat in the rear.
In the front it is termed sweep and kick-up.
Here it is. This is a very good explanation of the blocks.
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Old 12-21-2016, 06:04 PM   #4525
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Anyone using game changer VRP pistons.
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:55 AM   #4526
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has anyone tried using the old rear shock tower to help calm the rear down and keep it from sliding out?
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Old 12-22-2016, 12:00 PM   #4527
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so, any hints on an sct410.4 ?

Side note, picked up a new EB48.3 chassis on the cheap, anyone have any tips on using the chassis that differs than the stocker?
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Old 12-22-2016, 05:23 PM   #4528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2thdr View Post
Anyone using game changer VRP pistons.
I also would like to know
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Old 12-23-2016, 10:59 AM   #4529
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How much importance do you guys think a body has to do with handling ? Not talking about jumps...just how the truck handles at speed on straightaways and no grip in the corners.
When I first started with this truck it seemed to handle a lot better then It does now, I was thinking it all could have something to do with the body, these are the first two bodies I used


This is the last body I was using (I never put the number plate on)


Ive made other changes to the truck besides the body, but it seemed like whatever diff fluid, tires, pills, etc I tried the truck handled terrible with the body in the last picture...Could the body play that much of a roll ?

Last edited by weedsnager; 12-23-2016 at 02:28 PM.
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Old 12-23-2016, 03:20 PM   #4530
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Hey Guys,
Wanted to post our new recommended setup for the SCT410.3. This works on most track conditions, indoor and out. Please give it a try and let us know! Thanks!

http://www.teknorc.com/wp-content/up...oor%20Dirt.pdf
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Last edited by MattDub; 12-24-2016 at 09:45 AM.
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