R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric Off-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

Print Wikipost

Like Tree82Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 12-09-2016, 04:19 AM   #4441
mkl
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 888
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

I've liked the FTW/Snow's Design Diamondback body.
__________________
Tekno SCT410, Tekno EB48, Tekno ET48, X-Ray 808E, TRCE Slash 4x4, Tamiya Lunchbox, Tamiya Frog, Slash 4x4, Axial Wraith
mkl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 06:05 AM   #4442
Tech Apprentice
 
JoeRC123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 70
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
10-4, I was just looking for more opinions since there were only like 2-3 replies. Ill probably try the Proline Flotek Raptor (non-flotek looks awful) body finally, seems like a popular choice.
Do they have the Raptor clear pre-cut?
JoeRC123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 06:13 AM   #4443
Tech Adept
 
shadaloo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Deep South
Posts: 117
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRC123 View Post
Do they have the Raptor clear pre-cut?

Yeah they do, its expensive tho... But almost worth it!!! Cutting the vents is pretty awful.
shadaloo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 10:04 AM   #4444
Tech Apprentice
 
JoeRC123's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 70
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
Yeah they do, its expensive tho... But almost worth it!!! Cutting the vents is pretty awful.
How much? I couldn't find it.
JoeRC123 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 10:18 AM   #4445
Tech Master
 
Matthew_Armeni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,476
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
Also picking the best body for racing is so hard.... My JC Raptor Xflow handles and jumps sooooo much better than my JC Illuzion HF.... In wanting to get another practice body since my HF is shreaded, and I want to use my Raptor for racing only. Thinking about getting another JC Raptor Xflow, or a Proline Flotek Raptor. Not sure how the Proline handles since I haven't owned one. What's everyone's top choices for bodies??

proline flotek raptor

proline flotek fusion


::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
Interesting that you said that about the JC Illuzion HF, we just started running that body and love it. We're not cutting it out at all and have run it indoor and outdoor. I'll have to pick up the Raptor one you mentioned and give that a try to compare.
The only body I wouldn't run is the EVO. It's really designed for 2wd and works great for that but on a 4wd it's way to much front downforce.
__________________
Tekno RC
Matthew_Armeni is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 10:22 AM   #4446
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Maine
Posts: 995
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
The only body I wouldn't run is the EVO. It's really designed for 2wd and works great for that but on a 4wd it's way to much front downforce.
Matt, interesting you say that. I just started running the fusion body, and it's in air characteristics aren't very flattering. I was debating rattle canning the illusion f250 body and seeing if it acted better.
__________________
The off-road Tekno 3some-> EB48.4 - ET48.3 - SCT410.3 ---Soon eb410
The oval 3some -> Tekno SCT410.3 - Tekno SCT210.3 - Blitz

Sponsors: Fiercercsolutions.com, AKA, jtbearingco.com, CowRC, Walden Designs, Leadfinger Racing, And BoomRC.net
ezlight is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 10:23 AM   #4447
Tech Adept
 
Matt1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 189
Default Traction Role

Our indoor track was rebuilt 2 or 3 weeks ago and seems to have more traction more consistently than it use to. They are keeping it more moist. I've been fighting traction roll entering the turns off throttle for a while. I've changed stuff and changed it back with limited success. I looked back thru my race notes at my changes over the past few weeks to see when it started and what I had done. My notes looks like it may have started after going to a softer rear spring Y to G. But the other day I went G to P in rear and it seemed better until next race day. Then it was back to rolling. Another time, I raised droop and it worked decent until next time racing. Then it was back again. I looked again last night at my notes. Only thing that I haven't changed back that I did during that period was going from 7 10 5 diffs to 10 10 5?? Not sure if the thicker front diff oil would cause it? Any input would be appreciated and I've attached my set-up sheet.
Attached Thumbnails
Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-410.3.jpg  
__________________
Mugen XB7R Eco Tekin RX8 Gen 2 / Tekin 2050kv
Tekno SCT410.3 Tekin RX8 Gen 2/ 4300HD/BCE Chassis
Future additions: Whatever I can get without my wife seeing it!!!
"When in doubt, FULL THROTTLE. It may not be the best solution, but it ends the suspense."
Matt1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 10:29 AM   #4448
Tech Legend
 
Cain's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: West Fargo, North Dakota
Posts: 28,804
Trader Rating: 234 (100%+)
Default

assuming the tires are still the choice to use, maybe try this:

- next level up sway bars all around
- raise up camber link on rear tower 1 position
- limit rear droop more
- lower ride height
- less rear toe

Here on high traction carpet we fight the traction roll issue. Guys have different takes on there setups, one runs pretty light diffs, other heavier. other items though look very similar.

I would say though that if your traction has come up even more, maybe the tires are not the hot ticket as they are. Maybe try a set that is more worn so you get a bit more drift.


Something came in the mail today, excited to see what it is when I get home from work
__________________
Member - Red River Radio/Control Car Club
< Tekno SCT410.3 x 2 |HB Racing D413 x 2 | Tekno EB48SL x 2 | Yokomo YZ-2 DTM x 2>
Cain is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 01:29 PM   #4449
Tech Elite
 
celt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: /dev/null
Posts: 2,346
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
assuming the tires are still the choice to use, maybe try this:

- next level up sway bars all around
- raise up camber link on rear tower 1 position
- limit rear droop more
- lower ride height
- less rear toe

Here on high traction carpet we fight the traction roll issue. Guys have different takes on there setups, one runs pretty light diffs, other heavier. other items though look very similar.

I would say though that if your traction has come up even more, maybe the tires are not the hot ticket as they are. Maybe try a set that is more worn so you get a bit more drift.


Something came in the mail today, excited to see what it is when I get home from work
Welcome back Cain!
__________________
"Soon they will get everything they deserve. This isn't about trite elitism, but the otherwise intellectual and educated classes refusing to think for themselves. I call it situational ignorance, and painfully intolerable."

Stan Garvin
celt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 01:31 PM   #4450
Tech Master
 
Matthew_Armeni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,476
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

I'd agree with everything Cain said minus the going up on the rear camber link. If you're traction rolling into a turn off power the first thing I would do is go to a higher rear roll center. You already have the rear at the highest roll center position so you'll have to do some other things. Lowering the ride height is the biggest thing I see. I run 19mm front and rear with the body mounted at SDRC (high traction indoor clay track) so 24mm would be monster trucking for me . Also 4 degrees of toe is a lot. I usually run 2.5 or 3 degrees everywhere I go. Another thing is you have a very high roll center in the front which can make the truck feel hard to control under braking or off power. I would definitely go up on the tower in the front to the middle hole, if not all the way to the top. Another thing, if you don't already have them I would pick up the HRC rear hubs for the SC, should help since you're already at the max for rear roll center this will get you a little more. I would go down in the front sway as 2.6mm is thicker than we normally run. When you start running a sway bar that's too thick it causes handling inconsistencies as it's overpowering the springs. Go up in the rear after you've felt the change that going down in the front made. Also put the center and rear braces back on, you might have too much chassis flex adding too much rear traction as well.
__________________
Tekno RC
Matthew_Armeni is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 01:39 PM   #4451
Tech Master
 
Matthew_Armeni's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: San Diego
Posts: 1,476
Trader Rating: 31 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Matt, interesting you say that. I just started running the fusion body, and it's in air characteristics aren't very flattering. I was debating rattle canning the illusion f250 body and seeing if it acted better.
The Pro-Line Flo-Tek Fusion? I haven't run it but there's a guy that we race with that does and he really likes it.
I ran the Illuzion F-250 body a couple of times but I was testing some stuff on the truck that didn't work that well so I have an unfair bad association with it, lol. I want to give it another chance because it has the built in wing in the back but I haven't had the time to get another one and my current one works so well.
__________________
Tekno RC
Matthew_Armeni is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 03:59 PM   #4452
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Posts: 839
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadaloo View Post
Also picking the best body for racing is so hard.... My JC Raptor Xflow handles and jumps sooooo much better than my JC Illuzion HF.... In wanting to get another practice body since my HF is shreaded, and I want to use my Raptor for racing only. Thinking about getting another JC Raptor Xflow, or a Proline Flotek Raptor. Not sure how the Proline handles since I haven't owned one. What's everyone's top choices for bodies??

proline flotek raptor

proline flotek fusion


::edit:: after looking a bit more, I feel like the 2 I linked both look nice. I haven't tried proline on sct yet, but the flotek bodies seem legit and worth a try. I want a aggressive front end, and good antiparashute.
Interesting...I hated the jcon raptor. It didn't handle for me and make the truck a lot more difficult to drv. It was just too loose especially in turns. I was alternating between it and a jcon titan and liked the titan a lot more. I need 2 put some more time in on the 250. So far I'm not feeling it too much, but a lot of people like them. I haven't tried my jcon h2f yet. I really like the way my fusion handles (turns & jumps). I liked the evo too. So far the fusion is the body I like best. Would like the try it vs the titan and fusion side by side as there was prob at least a yr between me owning the two.
qstorm777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 07:01 PM   #4453
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 853
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

I'm going to try a 3400kv hobbywing on 2S, has anyone run this and if so do you remember what pinion gear you were running? thank you in advance, I've tried searching but can only find a few that ran it but no specifics.
jnyrcr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 07:47 PM   #4454
Tech Adept
 
Matt1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 189
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
I'd agree with everything Cain said minus the going up on the rear camber link. If you're traction rolling into a turn off power the first thing I would do is go to a higher rear roll center. You already have the rear at the highest roll center position so you'll have to do some other things. Lowering the ride height is the biggest thing I see. I run 19mm front and rear with the body mounted at SDRC (high traction indoor clay track) so 24mm would be monster trucking for me . Also 4 degrees of toe is a lot. I usually run 2.5 or 3 degrees everywhere I go. Another thing is you have a very high roll center in the front which can make the truck feel hard to control under braking or off power. I would definitely go up on the tower in the front to the middle hole, if not all the way to the top. Another thing, if you don't already have them I would pick up the HRC rear hubs for the SC, should help since you're already at the max for rear roll center this will get you a little more. I would go down in the front sway as 2.6mm is thicker than we normally run. When you start running a sway bar that's too thick it causes handling inconsistencies as it's overpowering the springs. Go up in the rear after you've felt the change that going down in the front made. Also put the center and rear braces back on, you might have too much chassis flex adding too much rear traction as well.
Thanks guys. I will look into these suggestions next time at the track (Tuesday). 24 on the ride height was just the last setting I tried. I tried 23 too I think. If I remember right, I couldn't get the front much lower than that for some reason
__________________
Mugen XB7R Eco Tekin RX8 Gen 2 / Tekin 2050kv
Tekno SCT410.3 Tekin RX8 Gen 2/ 4300HD/BCE Chassis
Future additions: Whatever I can get without my wife seeing it!!!
"When in doubt, FULL THROTTLE. It may not be the best solution, but it ends the suspense."
Matt1970 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-09-2016, 09:39 PM   #4455
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Kingsport, TN (Still SC tho)
Posts: 839
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1970 View Post
Thanks guys. I will look into these suggestions next time at the track (Tuesday). 24 on the ride height was just the last setting I tried. I tried 23 too I think. If I remember right, I couldn't get the front much lower than that for some reason
Question, on both the c and d blocks, the setup is on the bottom holes. Can't you move those up to raise the roll center to get a little more? Which adjustment affects roll center more, the shock towers or the blocks?
qstorm777 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Tags
sct410, sct410.3, short course, short course 4x4, tekno


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 05:35 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net