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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-23-2016, 05:54 AM   #4381
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Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8&I=LXFSFP&P=K

Has anyone raced the Flo-Tek Fusion?

Usually i dont go pre cut but thus one isnt that much more expensive then a shell.
I use the Evo SC pre-cut. Really like it.

https://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/evo-sc-clear-body/
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Old 11-23-2016, 11:35 AM   #4382
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I love my JC Raptor Xflow for racing.. but still trying to find a few random practice bodies... thinking about trying the Proline Baja Buggy body, the JC Bug looks kinda weird... also the Proline Ford Bronco, and possibly if i can find one cheap, the Proline 2012 Ford Focus (since i drive a 2012 Focus Titanium IRL)..... I would love to make some kind of Losi SCBE body, or a Axial Wraith, Yeti, etc rock racer type look... but don't know what all mods it would take to make the Losi SCBE body work...

I was shocked at home much of an improvement the JC Raptor Xflow was compared to my JC Hiflow... it seems like it jumps a lot better and overall is more stable... was shocked at the change to a new body.
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Old 11-23-2016, 12:59 PM   #4383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caffeine357 View Post
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...8&I=LXFSFP&P=K

Has anyone raced the Flo-Tek Fusion?

Usually i dont go pre cut but thus one isnt that much more expensive then a shell.
First time i run my local track dang best SCT body that i have with large jump. I've been JC HF2, JC F250, JC illusion, proline evo and my previous body before proline flo-tek was parma SCT body i like the parma SCT body but not durable like proline flo-tek.
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Old 11-23-2016, 05:00 PM   #4384
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I too run a Proline Flo-Tek Raptor
Attached Thumbnails
Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-img_0016.jpg  
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Old 11-26-2016, 08:56 PM   #4385
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Ok guys....what's the difference between the stock sct410.3 chassis Tkr5288 and optional chassis Tkr5000fb ??
Stiffness? Weight?
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Old 11-27-2016, 05:27 AM   #4386
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Looks like the difference is in material, and anodizing method.
1. the 5000fb looks to be 7075 and not sure exactly what the 5288 is.
2. the 5000fb is hard anodized which should give you better wear characteristics.
3. the 5000fb front two diff mounting holes are countersunk to allow the bumper mod.
Both appear to be the lightened version
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Old 11-27-2016, 01:06 PM   #4387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
Looks like the difference is in material, and anodizing method.
1. the 5000fb looks to be 7075 and not sure exactly what the 5288 is.
2. the 5000fb is hard anodized which should give you better wear characteristics.
3. the 5000fb front two diff mounting holes are countersunk to allow the bumper mod.
Both appear to be the lightened version
Thx
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Old 11-29-2016, 06:57 AM   #4388
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Anybody else popping holes in their shock bladders? Mine did it twice on same shock, rear left. I should do a full rebuild next time. Makes me think an o ring is damaged or missing.
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:04 AM   #4389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRC123 View Post
Anybody else popping holes in their shock bladders? Mine did it twice on same shock, rear left. I should do a full rebuild next time. Makes me think an o ring is damaged or missing.
Switched to emulsion shocks last week, and liked it a lot.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:00 PM   #4390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRC123 View Post
Anybody else popping holes in their shock bladders? Mine did it twice on same shock, rear left. I should do a full rebuild next time. Makes me think an o ring is damaged or missing.
Be sure that you have the shock shaft screwed all the way into the rod end, you might not and as a result the shaft is going too far into the body and able to touch the bladder. If you stop threading the shaft into the rod end when you cover up the last of the threads are no longer visible you should still have more shaft to thread into the shock end. Keep threading until the rod bottoms out in the end. I like to constantly move the ball around and as soon as I feel the ball get tight in the plastic I back the rod off slightly. Also check for burs in the shock cap.
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Old 11-29-2016, 12:44 PM   #4391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Be sure that you have the shock shaft screwed all the way into the rod end, you might not and as a result the shaft is going too far into the body and able to touch the bladder. If you stop threading the shaft into the rod end when you cover up the last of the threads are no longer visible you should still have more shaft to thread into the shock end. Keep threading until the rod bottoms out in the end. I like to constantly move the ball around and as soon as I feel the ball get tight in the plastic I back the rod off slightly. Also check for burs in the shock cap.
Excellent advice. I'll check this. Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:22 PM   #4392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Be sure that you have the shock shaft screwed all the way into the rod end, you might not and as a result the shaft is going too far into the body and able to touch the bladder. If you stop threading the shaft into the rod end when you cover up the last of the threads are no longer visible you should still have more shaft to thread into the shock end. Keep threading until the rod bottoms out in the end. I like to constantly move the ball around and as soon as I feel the ball get tight in the plastic I back the rod off slightly. Also check for burs in the shock cap.
There is quite a bit more of the shaft to thread into the rod end, at least with my cars. I've heard this might also help set the ride height a little better (just finished my shock rebuild and haven't tested this yet). The Tekno shock tools help A LOT, to the point where it's actually fun to rebuild the shocks--a first for me.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:36 PM   #4393
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Originally Posted by JoeRC123 View Post
Anybody else popping holes in their shock bladders? Mine did it twice on same shock, rear left. I should do a full rebuild next time. Makes me think an o ring is damaged or missing.
I didn't have that problem but mine would suck the bladder in. Could never figure out why so I switched to emulsion. Its ok but I liked it better vented.
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Old 11-29-2016, 04:57 PM   #4394
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
I didn't have that problem but mine would suck the bladder in. Could never figure out why so I switched to emulsion. Its ok but I liked it better vented.
I never could get bladder shocks set up in anything except a Slash () that I used to race. Seriously, we had a special class for them. On my last Tekno I could not get the bladders to stay put even after watching tutorials or build advice. I know I'm losing "the touch" that I had many moons ago but emulsion setup is much easier and I do like the handling set up this way.
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Old 11-29-2016, 07:27 PM   #4395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by King DORK View Post
I never could get bladder shocks set up in anything except a Slash () that I used to race. Seriously, we had a special class for them. On my last Tekno I could not get the bladders to stay put even after watching tutorials or build advice. I know I'm losing "the touch" that I had many mlooons ago but emulsion setup is much easier and I do like the handling set up this way.
When I first built it I did vented with no problems. After a couple of rebuilds this started happening. I replaced the bladders twice with no luck that's why I switched to emulsion. I agree it's easier but I like the way it handled better with vented shocks. Just seemed more consistent.
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