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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-19-2015, 08:19 PM   #421
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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
I see that there are no shims for each of the 4 smaller gears in the diffs like there were on the .1. Is something different now? Didn't think that there was a change. Ready to put .3 together and I'm gonna use steel pins instead of the composite ones so do I need the shims still? Thanx
Just started building my kit. My first tekno. So far I'm disappointed it didn't come with the steel pins. My build is on hold till my order comes.
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Old 04-19-2015, 08:29 PM   #422
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Anyone know if any of the team tekno drivers are running the rear hubs all the way forward on the new truck?I know some did that on the first truck.
Anyone?
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Old 04-19-2015, 09:57 PM   #423
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Our very first run of EB48 kits had shims for the spider gears but then we went to the larger diameter cross pins with the milled flat spots and made the gears slightly larger so that we could omit those shims.
You will not be able to use the steel cross pins that used the shims, their diameter is too small. If you feel uneasy about the plastic cross pins and want to use metal ones I suggest the aluminum ones, PN:TKR5149A.
Ya thanx matthew, I have a set of the steel pins in my box and couldn't find the aluminum ones anywhere local so I could start the build tonight. I appreciate the info, good to know
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Old 04-20-2015, 06:45 AM   #424
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
Just started building my kit. My first tekno. So far I'm disappointed it didn't come with the steel pins. My build is on hold till my order comes.
Don't need them. The plastic ones have been tested thoroughly and show no adverse effects.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ba4ma View Post
Anyone?
Its just another option for tuning. Shorter wheel base will make the car rotate better.

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Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
Ya thanx matthew, I have a set of the steel pins in my box and couldn't find the aluminum ones anywhere local so I could start the build tonight. I appreciate the info, good to know
Don't need them.
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:21 AM   #425
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
Just started building my kit. My first tekno. So far I'm disappointed it didn't come with the steel pins. My build is on hold till my order comes.
Me personally, I'll probably just order the steel ones not for a durability perspective but for the EB48SL I am going to build to give it a little more weight since I am going to use it in 1/8 4S buggy usage and target 7lb RTR.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:21 AM   #426
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Is there a sort of "go to" setup for a outdoor loamy track that people run? I know most cars have something that most people are close to, just curious where people are at on the Tekno.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:25 AM   #427
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Originally Posted by 4s losi View Post
Just started building my kit. My first tekno. So far I'm disappointed it didn't come with the steel pins. My build is on hold till my order comes.
Don't let that stop you, I've ran composite pins in my xray for over a year, never had one break, I am building mine with them. As far as I'm concerned, less rotating mass, the better. I weighed one last night .6g I'll take that.
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:19 AM   #428
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I ran my SCT410.3 with the plastic pins this weekend - they were fine afterward. I think they'll hold up to plenty of abuse. I plan to run them until I notice wear (if ever), and only then consider swapping to the aluminum version.

On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:27 AM   #429
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Originally Posted by mstrong View Post
I ran my SCT410.3 with the plastic pins this weekend - they were fine afterward. I think they'll hold up to plenty of abuse. I plan to run them until I notice wear (if ever), and only then consider swapping to the aluminum version.

On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
got pics of the breakage?

What conditions do you run on and what setup did you use and how did the vehicle feel?
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:07 PM   #430
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On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
A local team racer out of Omaha, sorry can't remember his name, told me the same thing about the lightened hexes. So I bought a set of the solid ALU hexes just to take care of it.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:42 PM   #431
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A local team racer out of Omaha, sorry can't remember his name, told me the same thing about the lightened hexes. So I bought a set of the solid ALU hexes just to take care of it.
Heard Tekno is looking at the issue.
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Old 04-20-2015, 12:48 PM   #432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mstrong View Post
I ran my SCT410.3 with the plastic pins this weekend - they were fine afterward. I think they'll hold up to plenty of abuse. I plan to run them until I notice wear (if ever), and only then consider swapping to the aluminum version.

On the other hand, I did build the truck with non-lightened wheel hexes after breaking one while overtightening the set screw. Be careful with those
Did you also run version 1 before you got version 3? If so, what differences did you notice in handling? Thanks.
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:18 PM   #433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
got pics of the breakage?
I don't have any pics yet but a crack developed right along the set screw. I was more careful with the other three lightened hexes and none of those cracked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
What conditions do you run on and what setup did you use and how did the vehicle feel?
My local indoor track is med size with tacky clay. I went from an SCT410 without any of the lightened bits to the SCT410.3 and started with the stock setup. During practice, I noticed the truck rotated in the turns a little faster on power than I was used to, and had a slight tendency to roll in the fast sweeper sections. I went up to a pink rear spring, lowered ride height by 1 mm front and rear, and later lengthened the rear camber link to the inner/lower hole on the tower (3-B if you go by the manual's notation). The roll center change made an immediate improvement so I stopped tweaking there before the main (TQ and 1st), but next time I'll try going up a notch in rear shock oil and maybe to a green rear spring. I left my old truck whole and loaned it out to my father-in-law, so side by side comparisons were easy to make between the trucks. I'd say the new SCT410.3 can be pushed faster through the turns for sure
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:24 PM   #434
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glad to hear it.

do you have any impressions on how it handled any nose down issues?

Also, would you say in your opinion that the kit setup for the new vehicle would be a good place to start for a low traction setup?
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Old 04-20-2015, 01:29 PM   #435
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Both of these 1654X or 5571A fit the .3 stub axles?

The 1654X increases the track width by 1mm per side and the 5571A would be the same track width as the stock lightened steel hexes (TKR5571M)?

All correct?
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