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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 11-09-2016, 05:06 AM   #4306
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I think the end point thing is more of a hey I am a noob and so it helps me not upset the car with too aggressive ham fisted inputs. I agree with you its not a "setup" solution. My radio does have return rate separately so I can play with that.

I need to rebuild the shocks and whatnot anyway so was just hoping to find a sort of "easy to drive" setup. I did notice the truck jumped differently depending on which set of holes the body was mounted on.

I drove my buddies SCT 410.3 also and his was much easier to jump/less twitchy but his is new and mine was a roller I bought. The track we are on is a pretty big outdoor track and probably needs a different setup than what the truck was setup for.
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:37 AM   #4307
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Try your buddy's setup. Also, the steering limiters will help you square up better out of a turn.
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:04 PM   #4308
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Hey guys, I'm converting my SL to an sct410.3. I got the wheel hexes, and found there's too much play between the drive pin and bearing. My hexes didn't come with shims and I was wondering what size shims I need to reduce the slop.
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Old 11-12-2016, 04:25 PM   #4309
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Originally Posted by Stanford55 View Post
Hey guys, I'm converting my SL to an sct410.3. I got the wheel hexes, and found there's too much play between the drive pin and bearing. My hexes didn't come with shims and I was wondering what size shims I need to reduce the slop.
TKR1230 is what you're looking for. You shouldn't need more than 1 or 2 at each wheel at most. You want there to be a tick of free play.
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Old 11-12-2016, 04:50 PM   #4310
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Ran a really bumpy dusty track today, rear end real loose on power,

Any setup suggestions?

3s
3000kv
Front Green 30wt
Rear Green 35wt
7-7-5
All chassis braces in
Stock toe, camber settings, anti-squat, shock mounts, camber mounts
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:40 PM   #4311
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Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
TKR1230 is what you're looking for. You shouldn't need more than 1 or 2 at each wheel at most. You want there to be a tick of free play.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
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Old 11-13-2016, 01:12 PM   #4312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Malazan View Post
Ran a really bumpy dusty track today, rear end real loose on power,

Any setup suggestions?

3s

Run less power LOL...
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Old 11-13-2016, 02:40 PM   #4313
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Run less power LOL...
LOL, yeah I thought about that, I'm going to turn my current down on my RX8
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Old 11-13-2016, 02:47 PM   #4314
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Also, is there a good explanation of how to use the Dot inserts in the A,B,C,D hinge pin blocks. I'm trying to change rear toe and anti squat but the use of the inserts confuse me, sorry LOL, I have all aluminum blocks if that matters
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Old 11-13-2016, 03:20 PM   #4315
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Malazan
Go back half a dozen pages. And look at my post #4210 and read thru to post #4218...

Good explanation of how the dots/pills work.
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Old 11-13-2016, 03:30 PM   #4316
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Originally Posted by Malazan View Post
Also, is there a good explanation of how to use the Dot inserts in the A,B,C,D hinge pin blocks. I'm trying to change rear toe and anti squat but the use of the inserts confuse me, sorry LOL, I have all aluminum blocks if that matters
Malazan, we are trying to consolidate the information and made a new page with the info you are looking for. It's at the bottom, Calculating Inner Hinge Pin Degrees.
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Old 11-13-2016, 03:37 PM   #4317
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There's a diagram on the first page of this thread that I've found pretty useful. Rather than just memorize dot configurations, it helps to have a conceptual understanding of what is going on. In your case, the anti-squat refers to the angle of the rear arm as it's placed up or down. C block is the anti-squat, so you can make height adjustments on that, and on the D block (which is the toe). So you can raise the C block for more anti-squat, and lower the D for even more. Center dot on aluminum C is 2 degrees. One dot will make a one-degree adjustment, 2 dots will change it in .5 degree increments. You can refer to the diagram for all of the configurations. The anti-squat diagram will show all the angles you can make relative to the D block (all of those numbers in the box are anti-squat only). So just up-and-down adjustments on both the C and D block for anti-squat. Toe works the same way, the only difference is you're thinking about the angle of the hinge pin as it changes left and right (or inward and outward). You can change toe on both on C and D blocks. Center dot on D block is 3 degrees. Refer to the C and D blocks in the manual. The C block was lowered, but so was the D, both by one degrees, so the anti-squat stayed the same. Toe was changed one dot, or one degree inward on the D block. No change left or right was made on the C. Try to picture what the hinge pins shifting inward would do rather than memorize the dots (it would decrease the toe).

Going back to the anti-squat and the stock setup. You could raise both the C and D block one dot, or one degree and still keep 3 degrees. But this would achieve HRC, which stand for higher roll center (I believe--I don't completely understand the roll centers). The stock setup lowered both C and D blocks, which lowered the roll center.

Last edited by Stanford55; 11-13-2016 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:22 PM   #4318
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Thanks fellows
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Old 11-13-2016, 04:36 PM   #4319
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattDub View Post
Malazan, we are trying to consolidate the information and made a new page with the info you are looking for. It's at the bottom, Calculating Inner Hinge Pin Degrees.
This really helped, thank you
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Old 11-13-2016, 05:34 PM   #4320
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Thanks slowpoke.
What class do you race?
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