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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread

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Old 09-05-2022, 08:19 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.




Hinge Pin Insert Chart:

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.





















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Old 11-02-2016, 09:36 AM
  #4276  
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Just took my newly built sct410.3 out for its shakedown run to adjust steering and esc settings. Nothing's binding but it seems really loud. No grinding or clicking, just seems generally loud under acceleration. Does it seem like these trucks are a bit loud?
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:40 AM
  #4277  
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Just took my newly built sct410.3 out for its shakedown run to adjust steering and esc settings. Nothing's binding but it seems really loud. No grinding or clicking, just seems generally loud under acceleration. Does it seem like these trucks are a bit loud?
Yeah, tekno's have a unique sound...little on the loud side.
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Old 11-02-2016, 11:12 AM
  #4278  
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My Tekno's seem super quiet compared to everyone at the track. Like silebt, I love it. Only time mine has made a sound is when I switched to steel spur. For whatever reason all the Losi and AE's are loud and chattery... So glad mine isn't like that hah
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Old 11-02-2016, 03:46 PM
  #4279  
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all of my Tekno's are quiet. I think a high quality pinion has a lot to do with it. In my opinion The drive shafts being in a straight line help keep the noise down. And well/properly lubed ring and pinion gears play a big part as well.
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Old 11-03-2016, 01:12 PM
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Strange, I lubed up all my gears and the mesh seems correct, I'm not new to this, have multiple 1/8 and 1/10 cars and this one seems to have this whine that the others lack. The others also have the metal diff mount and aluminum chassis like my Tekno, I hope I didn'd mess something up somewhere. I'm thinking it might get better after I break it in for a while...?
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Old 11-03-2016, 01:51 PM
  #4281  
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Strange, I lubed up all my gears and the mesh seems correct, I'm not new to this, have multiple 1/8 and 1/10 cars and this one seems to have this whine that the others lack. The others also have the metal diff mount and aluminum chassis like my Tekno, I hope I didn'd mess something up somewhere. I'm thinking it might get better after I break it in for a while...?
I wouldn't be overly concerned about the noise. As long as the mesh is correct, run it....After proper break in of course.
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:22 PM
  #4282  
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Just took my newly built sct410.3 out for its shakedown run to adjust steering and esc settings. Nothing's binding but it seems really loud. No grinding or clicking, just seems generally loud under acceleration. Does it seem like these trucks are a bit loud?
This usually happens when you use a warn pinion with a new spur or vice versa. Best recommendation is to use a new pinion and spur. This lets them wear in together. Should be pretty quiet.
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Old 11-03-2016, 09:33 PM
  #4283  
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Originally Posted by ZERTA RACING
I agree with the statement above 100%.
This is my servo recommendation for those that are on a budget and want a servo that will preform well with any ESC you throw at it.
The most Bang for your buck is:
-HW SCT ESC
-HW4700KV Motor
-Hitec 7955TG
-SMC7200mah battery
-and A radio of your choice is the most budget friendly and reliable system to date.

If you have a little more money to spend:
-Tekin RX8 GEN2
-Tekin Pro4 4300KV HD
-Highest DT2100, Hitec 7955TG, or Protek 170s Chad Bradley edition.
-SMC 7200Mah
-and A radio of your choice.
Is the Highest DT2100, Savox 2274, and Protek 170s still the recommended choices? I currently run a Savox 1267, but its wire is getting pretty beat so am looking for an upgrade.
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Old 11-04-2016, 01:33 AM
  #4284  
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Yes! This totally happened! I'll put on a new pinion and I bet this will fix things. I noted that the pinion was a bit worn but used it anyways! I'm super stoked to hear this. How did I miss that? I guess it's exciting to get a new kit put together and ready to go! Thanks!
Originally Posted by MattDub


This usually happens when you use a warn pinion with a new spur or vice versa. Best recommendation is to use a new pinion and spur. This lets them wear in together. Should be pretty quiet.
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Old 11-04-2016, 01:48 AM
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Any recommendations on gearing? pro4hd and running stock spur at OCRC here in southern california, Large indoor clay track....
Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Yes! This totally happened! I'll put on a new pinion and I bet this will fix things. I noted that the pinion was a bit worn but used it anyways! I'm super stoked to hear this. How did I miss that? I guess it's exciting to get a new kit put together and ready to go! Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:17 AM
  #4286  
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Any recommendations on gearing? pro4hd and running stock spur at OCRC here in southern california, Large indoor clay track....
teh 4300 HD is a torque beast, 17t-18t would be my recommendation to tone it down a tad, and smooth the power for better control.
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Old 11-04-2016, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Any recommendations on gearing? pro4hd and running stock spur at OCRC here in southern california, Large indoor clay track....
I run a 16 on mine. Biggest thing is to use Tekin's new frequency option in the latest software. I have mine at 10k or 12k for both forward and brake. Torque is at 7. Huge improvement as it smooths out the throttle response and makes the throttle much more linear.
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar
Any recommendations on gearing? pro4hd and running stock spur at OCRC here in southern california, Large indoor clay track....
If you are running Tekin esc at OCRC you can get away with 16 but if you are running Hobbywing sct pro I would run 18.
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Old 11-05-2016, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by MattDub
I run a 16 on mine. Biggest thing is to use Tekin's new frequency option in the latest software. I have mine at 10k or 12k for both forward and brake. Torque is at 7. Huge improvement as it smooths out the throttle response and makes the throttle much more linear.
By frequency I assume you are talking about the PWM step values?
All the new hobbywing ESC's have this function as well, but oddly people complained about it being to soft with the XR8.
But not to take away from what you've said, I find it interesting how many have a high caliber race radio and never fully understand how to utilize what they offer when it comes to variable travel rates and delays.
I think most people just tool with end points and dual rates mostly, maybe a little expo here and there and rely on the rest from ESC programming.

Point to all this, if you really want to get the most from any ESC tooling with "punch" feel and smoothing out your travel rates, it can be had on the fly using a slider or rotation knob.
Having such a quick method of choosing your feel makes per track or time of the day tuning a breeze and brings life out of any ESC really.

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 11-05-2016, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Josh L
Point to all this, if you want to get the most from any ESC tooling with "punch" feel and smoothing out your travel rates, it can be had on the fly using a slider or rotation knob.
Josh, this is probably a personal preference. While changing the throttle curve at the radio does give a 'dead' feeling, for me no radio setting can make up for having too much power or torque. Brushless four pole systems can easily have more power than the track can handle, and I don't have the throttle finger I used to. Probably comes from racing nitro where you can just punch it and not worry too much about the wheels spinning. Adjusting settings on the radio, unfortunately, has little effect on how many amps your ESC is allowing to reach your motor.

To me, all curve does is gives a dead feeling, and messes up jump timing because the vehicle isn't accelerating literally. With curve, my finger usually ends up compensating by pulling more throttle anyway.

I used to think the same thing, just add curve. When in reality all it changes the throttle points and yes it can easily be done on the drivers stand but in my case it's only a quick fix.

Last edited by MattDub; 11-05-2016 at 07:23 PM.
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