219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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10-24-2016, 08:45 AM
#4216
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
As far as where to buy them, tower or amain have deals and coupons so look out for those. id imagine you can get big lots from ebay on people that change sponsors and put a bunch up in bulk.
10-24-2016, 08:54 AM
#4217
If you want to save a little bit of money buy a $10 toaster oven and bake your tires off the rims when they are worn out.
As far as where to buy them, tower or amain have deals and coupons so look out for those. id imagine you can get big lots from ebay on people that change sponsors and put a bunch up in bulk.
As far as where to buy them, tower or amain have deals and coupons so look out for those. id imagine you can get big lots from ebay on people that change sponsors and put a bunch up in bulk.
thanks, thats actually what I did recently... I bought 100+ tires/wheels off someone leaving the hobby locally, and got 14 amazing sets and the rest i threw away. I bought some acetone to use to remove tires also, but I have a dickload of wheels now from that lot. They were all 1/8 buggy tires tho, so I need to get more sct tires. I use 17mm so I use those for practice or messing around sometimes, and can use the wheels if i really want to... I hate the look of solid wheels on the sct tho, so I use DE 17mm wheels, and need to buy bulk sct tires basically. Since I use 17mm, it limits my premounted options a ton.
I just ordered some from amain/tower, so roughly
$19.70x2 + $12 - $10 coupon and free shipping. Thats the normal price for my sct tires atm.. was hoping for a better option, I know there is a ebay dealer that sells for $32 premounted for 4, but charges $8 for shipping..
10-24-2016, 02:25 PM
#4218
Lowspark, this is an excellent write up.
The simple fact that 1 dot is 1 degree of adjustment and 2 dots is .5 degree of adjustment is huge. Thank you for that!!!
One question though...using your C block example.... I can visualize it in my brain that it would be a pretty aggressive toe in. However, I can't quite make sense of it with regards to the actual number. If the D block was a center dot and the c block was a center dot making 3 degrees toe in......if you moved the c block inside 1 dot would that make it 2 degrees toe in?
On the setup sheet I am referencing the anti squat is "max." While using the pills with the center dot on the c and d block, what is the numeric number for the degrees? Toe is -3 but anti squat is.......
The simple fact that 1 dot is 1 degree of adjustment and 2 dots is .5 degree of adjustment is huge. Thank you for that!!!
One question though...using your C block example.... I can visualize it in my brain that it would be a pretty aggressive toe in. However, I can't quite make sense of it with regards to the actual number. If the D block was a center dot and the c block was a center dot making 3 degrees toe in......if you moved the c block inside 1 dot would that make it 2 degrees toe in?
On the setup sheet I am referencing the anti squat is "max." While using the pills with the center dot on the c and d block, what is the numeric number for the degrees? Toe is -3 but anti squat is.......
With the D and C blocks using center dots, you have 3 degrees of toe and 2 degrees of antisquat.
Here's pic showing the range of adjustment the pills give you.
[IMG]
[/IMG]
10-24-2016, 09:56 PM
#4219
OHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!! I was doing the math wrong Matthew.
Thank you (and everyone else) help me dumb brain understand all of this!!
Thank you (and everyone else) help me dumb brain understand all of this!!
10-25-2016, 04:18 AM
#4220
The composite C block has an extra degree of antisquat built in to it, so when you have the C and D block set at the center you will have 3 degrees toe and 3 degrees antisquat.
10-25-2016, 07:31 AM
#4222
This always confuses me... would it be an extra degree up? When someone says take out a degree of anti, does that mean use the lower dots? Always confused me cause there is 1* in every direction, so I didn't know which way they meant.. lol
10-25-2016, 08:06 AM
#4223
I don't know if this will help any but I can explain how I think about it. Antisquat is the front side (c block) of the hinge pin raised up more from the chassis than the back side (d block). The C block is 3 degrees taller than the D block, this is why when you have the same dot on both blocks you still have 3 degrees antisquat.
If you want less antisquat you would lower the dot on the C block (this puts the front of the hinge pin closer to the chassis). If you run out of adjustment on the C block you can start raising up the dot on the D block (this gives less antisquat because it raises the back of the hinge pin closer to the height of the C block)
If you want less antisquat you would lower the dot on the C block (this puts the front of the hinge pin closer to the chassis). If you run out of adjustment on the C block you can start raising up the dot on the D block (this gives less antisquat because it raises the back of the hinge pin closer to the height of the C block)
10-25-2016, 08:43 AM
#4224
10-25-2016, 08:47 AM
#4225
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but.......anit squat means that the rear of the arms are always lower than the front. So if someone says lower the antisquat, you will use a lower dot.
10-25-2016, 08:47 AM
#4226
I'm changing to the aluminium block this week, and wasn't sure where to put the dot now..
Is added anti degree from the alum C block generally better than the comp C block?
I know its a common adjustment to help with nose diving, just never knew which way to adjust it.
Is added anti degree from the alum C block generally better than the comp C block?
I know its a common adjustment to help with nose diving, just never knew which way to adjust it.
10-25-2016, 09:48 AM
#4227
There is no better or worse between the aluminum or composite C block, the aluminum block is just 1 degree less antisquat. If you're switching to the aluminum block and want to keep the same antisquat you currently have you need to raise the dot on the C block pill one row (1 degree).
10-25-2016, 10:09 AM
#4228
Thank you for explaining. I know its asked a lot, hah.
Which adjustment to anti-squat is usually used to help control nose diving?
Which adjustment to anti-squat is usually used to help control nose diving?
10-25-2016, 11:25 AM
#4229
Honestly the best thing you can do is go out and just try it. Its only 2 screws to take the D block off and access the C block pills. If you don't like what the change did put it back to how it was before or try the opposite direction. Take notes on what you liked and disliked about the change when you tried it out.
Another note on nose diving make sure your motor is geared properly so you rev it while in the air and get the nose back up. Also make sure you're checking your ride height with the body on. Putting the body on the truck can lower the ride height a couple millimeters and then you might just be slapping the jump and nose diving because the ride height is too low.
Edit: One more thing about ride height, the truck will usually fly the same way you have the ride height staggered. What I mean is if your front ride height is lower than your rear ride height the truck will want to fly nose down. The opposite is also true.
10-25-2016, 11:43 AM
#4230
Typically less antisquat will nose dive less. When this is happening the antisquat helps the rear spring rebound harder off the jump face and the rear end ends up higher in the air than the front.
Honestly the best thing you can do is go out and just try it. Its only 2 screws to take the D block off and access the C block pills. If you don't like what the change did put it back to how it was before or try the opposite direction. Take notes on what you liked and disliked about the change when you tried it out.
Another note on nose diving make sure your motor is geared properly so you rev it while in the air and get the nose back up. Also make sure you're checking your ride height with the body on. Putting the body on the truck can lower the ride height a couple millimeters and then you might just be slapping the jump and nose diving because the ride height is too low.
Edit: One more thing about ride height, the truck will usually fly the same way you have the ride height staggered. What I mean is if your front ride height is lower than your rear ride height the truck will want to fly nose down. The opposite is also true.
Honestly the best thing you can do is go out and just try it. Its only 2 screws to take the D block off and access the C block pills. If you don't like what the change did put it back to how it was before or try the opposite direction. Take notes on what you liked and disliked about the change when you tried it out.
Another note on nose diving make sure your motor is geared properly so you rev it while in the air and get the nose back up. Also make sure you're checking your ride height with the body on. Putting the body on the truck can lower the ride height a couple millimeters and then you might just be slapping the jump and nose diving because the ride height is too low.
Edit: One more thing about ride height, the truck will usually fly the same way you have the ride height staggered. What I mean is if your front ride height is lower than your rear ride height the truck will want to fly nose down. The opposite is also true.