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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 04-18-2015, 03:56 PM   #406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cracing View Post


M2C Racing is pleased to announce the release of our Aluminum "B"block.
(front/rear block)
part no. m2c 6601
made with 7075 T6 aircraft aluminum and anodized black.
this block is designed to use your existing inserts and is a good replacement for the plastic model.
We also have a kit that replaces the rear plastic hinge pin support blocks
and has the B block included
part no. m2c 6600
It looks like this takes the old style pills.
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Old 04-18-2015, 04:17 PM   #407
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Default 4s battery

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cain View Post
For you guys who have 4S 1/8 packs how is the fit with SCT410 battery straps? Do you need longer straps, etc?

Sorry I know not really a true "SCT410.3" question but just curious more so to know what to order for the eb48sl.

we need more pics guys and some vids of runs!
Yes you need 48.2 battery straps (do that battery mod already lol)
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Old 04-18-2015, 06:46 PM   #408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guch View Post
I may of missed it but does anyone know if the .3 comes with the new hard diff. washers?
Yes it does......
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Old 04-18-2015, 06:48 PM   #409
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Ready for the first race next Saturday. ..
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Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-20150417_112130.jpg   Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-20150417_112211.jpg  
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Old 04-18-2015, 07:03 PM   #410
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Looks great good luck
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Old 04-19-2015, 01:33 AM   #411
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I got mine on friday Batch of 6 or so arrived in Finland direct. Finished building it last night (apart from the electronics which will be transferred from my Losi). A beautiful kit and all was in perfect order. First Tekno kit I have built and I am suitably impressed

Last edited by thehugegoose; 04-19-2015 at 01:33 AM. Reason: Typo
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Old 04-19-2015, 01:03 PM   #412
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Default oops on the spelling

Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cracing View Post


Just got me new 410.3 kit and I am pleased to tell you guys that have already bought my chassis that it is a direct fit to the new .3 model.
the flush mounted steel skid plates are working out really well I am told.
the additional set of battery mount holes is helping a lot with the tuning
of the truck.
chassis weight is about the same as the new kit model
217 grams
I stand corrected on the chassis being the same.
All the bolt holes are the same.
the Kick up on the new chassis is 2 degrees steeper than the .2 on
the new chassis I just got.
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Old 04-19-2015, 02:39 PM   #413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cracing View Post
I stand corrected on the chassis being the same.
All the bolt holes are the same.
the Kick up on the new chassis is 2 degrees steeper than the .2 on
the new chassis I just got.
Thats weird. Wouldn't they need to make a new front diff housing if they changed the kick up? Otherwise the steering top plate and chassis badge and all would be off. I haven't seen any mention of changed kick up in any of the tekno documentation. Just milled and lightened.

Wonder if it's just some variation in the manufacturing, or if it was truly intended to be a different kick up.
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Old 04-19-2015, 04:46 PM   #414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
Thats weird. Wouldn't they need to make a new front diff housing if they changed the kick up? Otherwise the steering top plate and chassis badge and all would be off. I haven't seen any mention of changed kick up in any of the tekno documentation. Just milled and lightened.

Wonder if it's just some variation in the manufacturing, or if it was truly intended to be a different kick up.
I found on ones I built ( the first gen ) you actually had to pull up on the front to get the bolts in the top plate. So might make sense they added a bit.
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Old 04-19-2015, 05:25 PM   #415
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I see that there are no shims for each of the 4 smaller gears in the diffs like there were on the .1. Is something different now? Didn't think that there was a change. Ready to put .3 together and I'm gonna use steel pins instead of the composite ones so do I need the shims still? Thanx
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:16 PM   #416
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ezlight View Post
Ialso got mine yesterday, and also thanks to Pete.

I think I'll start that build tomorrow. Just finished my 2 buggies for racing tonight.
Damn it, missing the hingle pins in my kit.

Guess I have to e-mail tekno. (seriously though, missing hinge pin for rear)
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:19 PM   #417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
I see that there are no shims for each of the 4 smaller gears in the diffs like there were on the .1. Is something different now? Didn't think that there was a change. Ready to put .3 together and I'm gonna use steel pins instead of the composite ones so do I need the shims still? Thanx
There were never shims for the gears. U must be thinking of some under-engineered brand
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:48 PM   #418
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Ready for the first race next Saturday. ..
sweet!
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Old 04-19-2015, 06:53 PM   #419
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I guess that must be, I used to have to do a rebuild with new internals once a month with that "other brand" and have never had to change anything in the Tekno diffs other than oil and really only cuz I felt bad not changing it at least once in a while
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Old 04-19-2015, 07:32 PM   #420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cracing View Post
I stand corrected on the chassis being the same.
All the bolt holes are the same.
the Kick up on the new chassis is 2 degrees steeper than the .2 on
the new chassis I just got.
The chassis kickup should be the same, must be manufacturing variance Once all the parts are tightened up it should be fine.
Your chassis will fit all our electric kits

Quote:
Originally Posted by jhautz View Post
Thats weird. Wouldn't they need to make a new front diff housing if they changed the kick up? Otherwise the steering top plate and chassis badge and all would be off. I haven't seen any mention of changed kick up in any of the tekno documentation. Just milled and lightened.

Wonder if it's just some variation in the manufacturing, or if it was truly intended to be a different kick up.
No change, variation as you said.

Quote:
Originally Posted by FastPete View Post
I found on ones I built ( the first gen ) you actually had to pull up on the front to get the bolts in the top plate. So might make sense they added a bit.
Yeah, we've always suggested that users tighten everything up a little bit at a time and it will seat just fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinsocal View Post
I see that there are no shims for each of the 4 smaller gears in the diffs like there were on the .1. Is something different now? Didn't think that there was a change. Ready to put .3 together and I'm gonna use steel pins instead of the composite ones so do I need the shims still? Thanx
Our very first run of EB48 kits had shims for the spider gears but then we went to the larger diameter cross pins with the milled flat spots and made the gears slightly larger so that we could omit those shims.
You will not be able to use the steel cross pins that used the shims, their diameter is too small. If you feel uneasy about the plastic cross pins and want to use metal ones I suggest the aluminum ones, PN:TKR5149A.
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