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Old 07-27-2017, 06:29 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 08-24-2016, 10:01 AM   #3991
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ROAR rules are 2s. Not all tracks run ROAR rules. I think there are a couple people running 3s local to me. If your track allows it 3s is a better way to go. But it does pose a problem if a track that you visit only allows 2s. Or sometimes my local tracks will have a special race that is more strict on the rules and only allow 2s.
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Old 08-31-2016, 05:36 AM   #3992
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How often do you guys recommend changing your fluids? After every race weekend? Once, twice a month?

I ask because I hear a ton of difference answers. Obviously I am new to racing and not a pro, so Im just looking for a realistic time frame. ("ie" not after every heat or something)

This past weekend I spent 4hrs on Sat, then 8hrs on Sunday running at the track between my two Tekno's. This kit I only has 4 visits to the track, and the other car that I drove this weekend was built this week. So both kits are pretty much new.

Do I change diff oil more often? Or vice-versa.. I wipe down my cars each day that I run, I haven't taken them apart to clean unless I'm doing a drastic setup change and I'm already there.

My friends that i run with basically never change fluids, so i wasn't sure if it was overrated or what not. I prefer to take care of my babies though.

Thanks for answering noobish questions, just trying to learn!
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:50 AM   #3993
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You should change diff fluids and shock fluids at least occasionally. The real answer is "when dirty", but you can't see in there to tell when that is. If you're a top racer, you change them all the time so it is super consistent and always exactly the same. If you're not a top racer, that matters less, so you care about mechanical wear and tear. For shocks, if you run boots and they're not torn, you can keep the same fluids for a long time and they'll still come out clean on the Tekno shocks. But if the boots aren't on, or get torn, etc...replace the oil as you fix that and clean the orings in the cartridge. Try changing this at the one month mark if you don't otherwise notice air in the shocks or leaking, and if the fluid is still clean, go a little longer the next time, etc.

Diffs are similar...but there are 2 key things to keep in mind.
1) The first time you put them together, you should then do a break in, which WILL dirty the fluid some. So, change diff fluids after the first or 2nd pack, or at least after the first track day of use.
2) The SCT runs composite cross pins in the diff out of the box for less rotating mass and performance. If you run these, you should probably stick to the roughly once a month or every other month diff fluid change (assuming you run at least once a week for any period of time). However, if you're running one of the metal cross pin options...it is still a good idea to do that...but you can go a LOT longer and as long as the diff still feels like it has resistance (so it isn't empty) and is smooth, you probably won't hurt anything by running it (I once did a year + and only took one apart to change the worn out outdrives, just to see if it would do it, and it was fine...but don't do that).

Fluid maintenance is something that matters more, the more your vehicle being EXACTLY the same matters to your racing skill level. If you can't feel the difference in driving it on the track yet, just worry about making sure it stays in good shape, and you'll be fine. Other vehicles that aren't Tekno often need more frequent rebuilds of things like diffs to not leak out their fluid, or shocks due to not sealing out dirt as well, but the above general rules about cleanliness of the fluids should still apply.
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Old 08-31-2016, 05:06 PM   #3994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
You should change diff fluids and shock fluids at least occasionally. The real answer is "when dirty", but you can't see in there to tell when that is. If you're a top racer, you change them all the time so it is super consistent and always exactly the same. If you're not a top racer, that matters less, so you care about mechanical wear and tear. For shocks, if you run boots and they're not torn, you can keep the same fluids for a long time and they'll still come out clean on the Tekno shocks. But if the boots aren't on, or get torn, etc...replace the oil as you fix that and clean the orings in the cartridge. Try changing this at the one month mark if you don't otherwise notice air in the shocks or leaking, and if the fluid is still clean, go a little longer the next time, etc.

Diffs are similar...but there are 2 key things to keep in mind.
1) The first time you put them together, you should then do a break in, which WILL dirty the fluid some. So, change diff fluids after the first or 2nd pack, or at least after the first track day of use.
2) The SCT runs composite cross pins in the diff out of the box for less rotating mass and performance. If you run these, you should probably stick to the roughly once a month or every other month diff fluid change (assuming you run at least once a week for any period of time). However, if you're running one of the metal cross pin options...it is still a good idea to do that...but you can go a LOT longer and as long as the diff still feels like it has resistance (so it isn't empty) and is smooth, you probably won't hurt anything by running it (I once did a year + and only took one apart to change the worn out outdrives, just to see if it would do it, and it was fine...but don't do that).

Fluid maintenance is something that matters more, the more your vehicle being EXACTLY the same matters to your racing skill level. If you can't feel the difference in driving it on the track yet, just worry about making sure it stays in good shape, and you'll be fine. Other vehicles that aren't Tekno often need more frequent rebuilds of things like diffs to not leak out their fluid, or shocks due to not sealing out dirt as well, but the above general rules about cleanliness of the fluids should still apply.
Thank you for the informative post. I had a Losi SCTe and it's shocks and diffs were awful... So far my Tekno's have been great, although they are new. I will definitely redo them once a month, unless I feel they see dirty. I wish that the shock boots were more durable though. Got a tear on one on my second day running.
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:28 PM   #3995
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Thank you for the informative post. I had a Losi SCTe and it's shocks and diffs were awful... So far my Tekno's have been great, although they are new. I will definitely redo them once a month, unless I feel they see dirty. I wish that the shock boots were more durable though. Got a tear on one on my second day running.
Look into the new taller spring perches, they help prevent the boots from catching in the spring, so the boots last longer. Also consider the AL cartridge nuts vs the plastic that's stock in the kit, or slightly bevel the bottom outside edge of the plastic (and absolutely make sure there's no nub sticking out from where it was on the parts tree). Those are the most common things that cause boots to tear more quickly than normal.
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Old 09-04-2016, 05:33 PM   #3996
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My new lid- a nod to Williams F1 and vintage Martini Racing
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Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-img_3416.jpg  
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:34 PM   #3997
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My new lid- a nod to Williams F1 and vintage Martini Racing
Solid!

you do it yourself?
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Old 09-04-2016, 06:46 PM   #3998
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Thanks, yes I did. I am terrible at painting, so I used lots of tape. Used pearl white too, looks betting person than in the photo
Thanks again.
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Old 09-04-2016, 09:14 PM   #3999
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Do you guys have a goto setup when hitting a new track? I just found 2 new outdoor tracks and have been running my ebug on them. I plan on using my sct this week, but I don't know of a "go to" setup like the eb48.3 has. For the EB48.3 the Joe Bornhorst SNats setup is really popular, along with his Wicked Weekends setup. Is there a similar popular setup for the SCT?
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:20 AM   #4000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Do you guys have a goto setup when hitting a new track? I just found 2 new outdoor tracks and have been running my ebug on them. I plan on using my sct this week, but I don't know of a "go to" setup like the eb48.3 has. For the EB48.3 the Joe Bornhorst SNats setup is really popular, along with his Wicked Weekends setup. Is there a similar popular setup for the SCT?
You might already know about this but there are many setup sheets here:
http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/

I used one of Jeremy McGuigan's setups. Find one that matches your track and driving style.
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Old 09-05-2016, 07:30 AM   #4001
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You might already know about this but there are many setup sheets here:
http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/

I used one of Jeremy McGuigan's setups. Find one that matches your track and driving style.
Yeah, I got my EB setup from there. If you goto the EB thread, its posted everywhere that Joe's setup is a great starting point. Was just wondering which SCT setup was a good starting point. I realize it varies track to track, but I was looking for one to tweak to my needs. Thanks for the link though!
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Old 09-05-2016, 05:55 PM   #4002
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What long wear tires do you guys recommend for the truck? On my eb48.3 at my track I use aka impact or Ibeam mediums for practice and super soft impact or X4 proline holeshots for racing.

Having trouble finding the medium wear on the impacts for the short course so open for any comparable suggestions.
JConcepts Lil Chasers work very well.

Blue or green compound. I run green most all the timr unless your track surface is hot (85* F or higher).

Also for those looking for bodies the JC HiFlow 2 fits & looks awesome.

The Hazard sctE wheels look & work great without any clearance issue.
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Old 09-07-2016, 10:24 PM   #4003
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Well folks... I had picked up this truck a month or so ago and just finished my second day at our track out here.. Indoor clay...

Being a newbie at all things RC, I'll say this truck can take a beating.

Btw.. Just finished this entire thread.. Y'all have taught me tons about this truck..
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Old 09-09-2016, 07:39 AM   #4004
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Well folks... I had picked up this truck a month or so ago and just finished my second day at our track out here.. Indoor clay...

Being a newbie at all things RC, I'll say this truck can take a beating.

Btw.. Just finished this entire thread.. Y'all have taught me tons about this truck..
Enjoy. I'll be racing this truck on off-road for the first time all season tomorrow....Hopefully it's like riding a bike, and I pick it right back up.

I took 1st by 4 laps last Sunday on a dirt oval, after almost being a lap down due to being taken out in turn 1. Man it was smiles for miles!!
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Old 09-11-2016, 08:17 PM   #4005
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Ran my EB and my SCT today, and wow.. first time on the track with the SCT in awhile, and everytime I hit the bigger jumps the front end would just fly up... I have plenty of air holes in my body, (Jconcepts flotek). It has holes all along the bed, the taillights, 3 on the hood, etc... All day I feel like it jumped like utty trash compared to my EB. Part of that could be setup, but I felt like it handled awful. Last time I ran it, which was about 2 months ago I remember it having more of a nose dive issue, which I had 0 of today, it was all nose up. Any ideas how to get rid of that?
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