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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-18-2016, 02:48 PM   #3856
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Originally Posted by Lowe's48 View Post
I think dremel is a better way to go.
I had lots of issues with various supposedly compatible wheels rubbing the exposed threads of the rear outer hinge pins. I dremeled the hinge pins with a cut-off wheel. Cut down one end and installed a thin aluminum nut (not a locking nut with nylon liner) with red thread lock. Cut it so that the nut just fits with no exposed threads. Cut the other end just long enough so there are no exposed threads using the stock lock nut. Installed the modified hinge pins with the shorter end toward the longer end of the wheel hub (end with the most spacers) to ensure good clearance at both ends of the arm. Took care of all the wheel rib scrubbing problems. Very happy with the results. So far, I have not encountered any problems with the modified hinge pins.

I didn't really want to change the geometry with thicker wheel hexes. I searched for shorter hinge pins but could not find any. Other than buying more new wheels, this was really the only other option. Not a modification for the timid, though. You might want to have an extra set of hinge pins handy before trying to cut them down just in case things go wrong.
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Old 06-18-2016, 02:53 PM   #3857
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Shrink wrap mine...no room back there !!

Nice job! Very clean electronics layout! I like it.
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:05 AM   #3858
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Well I just made it to the dark side from SCTe to Tekno, and wow... the build quality is amazing on this truck. I love how everything is setup, can't wait to take it to the track. Running a RX8 and Pro4 HD 4300, with 70c 2s. I made the switch from Mamba to Tekin and haven't run it yet... so very excited about running this. I haven't done any upgrades yet. Last month I got a ton of SCTe upgrades, basically everything you could get.. Wish that was spent towards this Tekno, bit oh well. I also finally attached my HW cap. Excited to start upgrading it!
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Old 06-20-2016, 10:32 AM   #3859
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I got this truck about 2 months ago and just took it to the track yesterday. Holy Crap, night and day from my last truck (SC10 4x4)it is very at home on the track, not too much that it can't do. Should have gotten one sooner. Looking forward to tweaking it to my driving style.
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Old 06-20-2016, 03:24 PM   #3860
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Anyone recommend a rx8 gen2 setup for this truck running a pro4 HD 4300? Also I saw that the rear springs need changed, that they are too soft? I haven't gotten a chance to run the truck, just finished building it yesterday. Just trying to figure out what all I need.
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Old 06-20-2016, 03:51 PM   #3861
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I noticed that when my truck jumps, it is a but nose heavy. The truck is running the stock setup. I run exclusively on carpet. For electronics, I run a RX8 and a HobbyWing 4000 kv sensored motor.
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Old 06-20-2016, 04:18 PM   #3862
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I noticed with mine (buggy) that the drag brake was set too high, but I don't know if that's the case with yours. Just a thought.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibbar110 View Post
I noticed that when my truck jumps, it is a but nose heavy. The truck is running the stock setup. I run exclusively on carpet. For electronics, I run a RX8 and a HobbyWing 4000 kv sensored motor.
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Old 06-20-2016, 05:15 PM   #3863
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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Anyone recommend a rx8 gen2 setup for this truck running a pro4 HD 4300? Also I saw that the rear springs need changed, that they are too soft? I haven't gotten a chance to run the truck, just finished building it yesterday. Just trying to figure out what all I need.
Start with:
65 current limit (go down more if just spinning wheels, go up if you have traction and can't make a short run up jump)
0 timing (C1 and set to min with max start rpm)
60% brake (adjust to track, full brake should JUST lock it up)
no drag brake or push control to start with (try to adjust setup to start with prior to doing these)
smallest neutral width that works well with your radio (this is basically to account for how sloppy radios are at hitting 0 for throttle)
17t pinion if small to medium track, 18t pinion if large or flowing track, maybe 16t if the track is TINY and technical with lots of 180s

The stock springs and oils are generally considered too soft by most. The stock setup has a free rear end on power, which some like and some don't. You can find various setups for the truck here so you can find a condition you're in and start from there...most setups will have a fairly loose rear on power and be more stable on brake, but you can change that if you don't like it.
http://www.teknorc.com/setup-sheets/
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Old 06-20-2016, 05:17 PM   #3864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibbar110 View Post
I noticed that when my truck jumps, it is a but nose heavy. The truck is running the stock setup. I run exclusively on carpet. For electronics, I run a RX8 and a HobbyWing 4000 kv sensored motor.
Stock setup does have this tendency, generally created by the rear slapping the face of a jump and then coming back over the top. Generally stiffer oil/piston combos will fix this. If you can use an iPhone or similar to take a slow mo of it hitting a jump it kicks off of, you'll be able to see if it is the front staying low or the back slapping and coming over, and then be able to make whichever side is causing the issue stiffer.
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Old 06-21-2016, 02:10 AM   #3865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Stock setup does have this tendency, generally created by the rear slapping the face of a jump and then coming back over the top. Generally stiffer oil/piston combos will fix this. If you can use an iPhone or similar to take a slow mo of it hitting a jump it kicks off of, you'll be able to see if it is the front staying low or the back slapping and coming over, and then be able to make whichever side is causing the issue stiffer.
I'll try changing the oil and see what happens. Thanks!
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:07 AM   #3866
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Over 50% of the nose over problem is due to the wrong approach angle on the front bumper. Switch it out to the eb48.3 buggy bumper. Requires a little dremel though.

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 06-21-2016 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 06-21-2016, 07:09 AM   #3867
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Ok....I have to add a vehicle to my signature again...I now have my 4th tekno SCT...2 V1's, and 2 .3's...I'll run this if I hit a track with no truggy class. Time for a rebuild...next week..
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Old 06-21-2016, 12:59 PM   #3868
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tibbar110 View Post
I noticed that when my truck jumps, it is a but nose heavy. The truck is running the stock setup. I run exclusively on carpet. For electronics, I run a RX8 and a HobbyWing 4000 kv sensored motor.
Trying lowering your anti-squat to 1 degree, really helps the truck jump level as well as give it more rear/side grip into turns.
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Old 06-21-2016, 03:00 PM   #3869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justpoet View Post
Stock setup does have this tendency, generally created by the rear slapping the face of a jump and then coming back over the top. Generally stiffer oil/piston combos will fix this. If you can use an iPhone or similar to take a slow mo of it hitting a jump it kicks off of, you'll be able to see if it is the front staying low or the back slapping and coming over, and then be able to make whichever side is causing the issue stiffer.
Not trying to argue with you Poet, but that isn't what Tekno said the problem was.
They recommended taking the anti-squat almost all the way out because they said the reason the truck was nose diving was because the rebound was two quick as a driver throttled over the jump face, making it seem like the pan slapping down was kicking it over, while in actuality the rear end was jumping up from the torque of throttling up with the anti-squat. This was said to be causing the rear end to pogo up.

I followed what they said and removed the anti-squat down to 1 degrees and the entire problem went away.
Granted I did move to pink springs all around with 40wt front 35wt rear with the stock 8 hole pistons.
In saying what I have, I am not saying your wrong. I have no proof either way. Just stating what Tekno them selves said about it a while back.

Either way, I am sure your method does the same thing as far as slowing rebound speeds.
Inverting the pistons seems to help with this effect as well and worth being mentioned as to why most of the pros do this.
McGuigan tends to run the white delrin 6 hole 1.5 pistons inverted on most of his setups.

He also runs the M2C chassis that places the battery back 10mm to further negate the nose weight, which he has stated is a large improvement for his driving style and allows him to run more antisquat without the negative effects.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:15 AM   #3870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matthew_Armeni View Post
Trying lowering your anti-squat to 1 degree, really helps the truck jump level as well as give it more rear/side grip into turns.
What is anti squat?
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