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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-14-2016, 09:51 AM   #3826
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Originally Posted by Kremzeek View Post
What size o-ring did you use? I've got a bunch of old Associated o-rings. I think they might be too small though.
I just used some old AE O-rings. Don't recall exactly what part they were, either a 1/8 or 1/10 off road... The ones I used fit just snug in the outdrive. They limit the play a bit, but no too much as you need a decent amount play for chassis flex. The O-rings just give a soft cushion for the center shafts to bounce off instead of metal to metal. It's worked good so far.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:00 AM   #3827
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I have wrote about this subject many times over within this thread and many others, so I don't want to blow it anymore in this particular thread.
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.

And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.

HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
I'm considering adding the HW cap pack just as a precaution. Haven't had any problems, but can't hurt right? Question is, where do you put the cap pack? Space is tight on these cars. Just zip-tie / shrink wrap it on the battery lead?



I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:16 AM   #3828
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This is my experience as well. I just live with that slow 1/2 rebound that results. I have not been able to achieve 100% dead. An experienced 1st place racer told me how to do it but I wasn't able to get perfect dead. I'll have to ask him again or maybe we'll just build one at the track.
I had difficulty getting consistent results with the stock shocks. The edge of the bladders is fairly thick which makes it difficult for me to snug the stock plastic caps consistently. My solution is different bladders. I have found that Mugen MBX6 bladders work very well as a substitute. I get consistent results every time. I am able to achieve 0 rebound, and the bladders work well with the stock pistons for my needs. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the Tekno bladders. All I'm saying is so far I get better results this way.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:54 PM   #3829
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I had difficulty getting consistent results with the stock shocks. The edge of the bladders is fairly thick which makes it difficult for me to snug the stock plastic caps consistently. My solution is different bladders. I have found that Mugen MBX6 bladders work very well as a substitute. I get consistent results every time. I am able to achieve 0 rebound, and the bladders work well with the stock pistons for my needs. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the Tekno bladders. All I'm saying is so far I get better results this way.
Have you guys drilled the bleeder hole in the shock cap? I find it very easy to get 0 rebound using the bleeder hole. Without it drilled I also struggled to get 0 rebound.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:11 PM   #3830
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Have you guys drilled the bleeder hole in the shock cap? I find it very easy to get 0 rebound using the bleeder hole. Without it drilled I also struggled to get 0 rebound.
Yes, my shocks are vented. Sometimes it just comes down to personal preference.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:13 PM   #3831
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Have you guys drilled the bleeder hole in the shock cap?
I did.
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:03 PM   #3832
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Yes, my shocks are vented. Sometimes it just comes down to personal preference.
Vented shocks have the hole drilled on the top. The bleeder hole is on the side. If you slowly screw on the cap allowing the oil to come out and continually wipe it clean you should be able to get 0 rebound. Screw on a little and wipe, screw on a little more and wipe. This method works for me.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:36 AM   #3833
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Default cap

mines setup same as yours with the cap pack taped to the floor in between the motor and speedo.. theres just enough room

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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson View Post
I'm considering adding the HW cap pack just as a precaution. Haven't had any problems, but can't hurt right? Question is, where do you put the cap pack? Space is tight on these cars. Just zip-tie / shrink wrap it on the battery lead?



I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
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Old 06-15-2016, 08:54 AM   #3834
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mines setup same as yours with the cap pack taped to the floor in between the motor and speedo.. theres just enough room
Do you happen to have a picture of how the cap is installed? I tried finding info on it and haven't had any luck... no idea how to install the damn thing.. ><
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:22 AM   #3835
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Default cap

yep will try take one later when home, but it is easy to do, the red wire from the cap soldered to the + battery post on the esc and the black - wire soldered to the - battery post on the esc.

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Do you happen to have a picture of how the cap is installed? I tried finding info on it and haven't had any luck... no idea how to install the damn thing.. ><
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:33 AM   #3836
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Default cap

its hard to photograph as its tucked under the wires stuck on the chassie with a bit of double sided esc tape and the wires run up and are soldered to the top of the posts


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Originally Posted by deceit View Post
Do you happen to have a picture of how the cap is installed? I tried finding info on it and haven't had any luck... no idea how to install the damn thing.. ><
Attached Thumbnails
Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-img_2863.jpg   Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread-img_2862.jpg  

Last edited by szymanski2oo1; 06-15-2016 at 09:34 AM. Reason: wrong image added
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:07 AM   #3837
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I'm considering adding the HW cap pack just as a precaution. Haven't had any problems, but can't hurt right? Question is, where do you put the cap pack? Space is tight on these cars. Just zip-tie / shrink wrap it on the battery lead?



I know I put the ESC backwards from the way most of you do...
i just double sided tape and a zip tie above the steering rack.
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:15 PM   #3838
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Originally Posted by crash n go View Post
Vented shocks have the hole drilled on the top. The bleeder hole is on the side. If you slowly screw on the cap allowing the oil to come out and continually wipe it clean you should be able to get 0 rebound. Screw on a little and wipe, screw on a little more and wipe. This method works for me.
Vented shocks have bleeder holes drilled on the side plus a vent hole at the top of the cap.

Last edited by sapperc; 06-16-2016 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 06-15-2016, 03:49 PM   #3839
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its hard to photograph as its tucked under the wires stuck on the chassie with a bit of double sided esc tape and the wires run up and are soldered to the top of the posts
Just fits, nice thanks!

Your motor is a touch longer than our HW 4700 I believe, so we'd have a touch more room.
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Old 06-15-2016, 07:29 PM   #3840
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its hard to photograph as its tucked under the wires stuck on the chassie with a bit of double sided esc tape and the wires run up and are soldered to the top of the posts

Thanks a lot for taking the time to take pics and explain! I'll finally get that setup this weekend, thanks man.
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