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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-11-2016, 09:42 PM   #3811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crash n go View Post
The plastic ones have enough resistance that they are not needed.
Our plastic ones have little to no resistance. It's one of the stock parts I don't like. Wish they had a grove for an o-ring like the aluminum ones. Been meaning to upgrade to the aluminum ones for this reason.
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Old 06-11-2016, 11:28 PM   #3812
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Originally Posted by ryan432greening View Post
What the heck is a cap pack?
I have wrote about this subject many times over within this thread and many others, so I don't want to blow it anymore in this particular thread.
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
Here is a link to read more about it from Castle Creation.

CC Cap Pack

And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.

HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
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Old 06-12-2016, 04:08 AM   #3813
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson View Post
Our plastic ones have little to no resistance. It's one of the stock parts I don't like. Wish they had a grove for an o-ring like the aluminum ones. Been meaning to upgrade to the aluminum ones for this reason.
Mine are the same, you can almost spin them with one finger, will be getting aluminum ones ordered
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Old 06-12-2016, 05:37 AM   #3814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
I have wrote about this subject many times over within this thread and many others, so I don't want to blow it anymore in this particular thread.
But long story short they are capacitors made to hook to your ESC parallel to your battery input terminals. They will reduce voltage ripple and will keep your electronics more stable and much cooler over all. It is cheap and one of the best things you can do for any ESC on any electric RC platform period.
Here is a link to read more about it from Castle Creation.

CC Cap Pack

And here is a link to one of the better cap packs offered IMO, due to it including a diode on the board as well to prevent voltage spiking from reversing polarity.

HobbyWing Cap Pack/w Diode
I looked at your previous posts but didn't find a photo. Would you post a photo of how you installed your cap pack? I am no electrical engineer and am a little lost. I see the Castle diagrams of how their caps are installed, but am unsure of the HW version. Can the wires of the caps be soldered to the posts of an RX8, or to the battery connector joint?
Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:42 AM   #3815
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Originally Posted by Jordan Anderson View Post
Yes, I put an o-ring in the outdrives. There's still plenty of play to accomadate chassis flex.
What size o-ring did you use? I've got a bunch of old Associated o-rings. I think they might be too small though.
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:26 PM   #3816
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Tekno's TKR5253B servo horn is a nice improvement over their old aluminum design.
The screw for the steering linkage is now sunk flush in the arm.
The larger M3 screw for the clamp is also better but not included.
An additional second inner hole they recommend for protecting the servo.
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Old 06-12-2016, 05:03 PM   #3817
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Is anybody doing any type of mod to keep their battery straps away from the driveline, it seems that no matter how I configure it, the straps are way too close for comfort
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:10 PM   #3818
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Originally Posted by mxrcracer23 View Post
Is anybody doing any type of mod to keep their battery straps away from the driveline, it seems that no matter how I configure it, the straps are way too close for comfort
I have the same concern. Also it's a pain trying to keep 6 things out of the way to get the pack in there.
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Old 06-12-2016, 10:10 PM   #3819
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Originally Posted by mxrcracer23 View Post
Is anybody doing any type of mod to keep their battery straps away from the driveline, it seems that no matter how I configure it, the straps are way too close for comfort
Try orienting the side straps with the plastic loops on the inside so that when you pull the straps you pull them to the outside of the chassis. That will pull the straps away from the center drive shaft. Clearance problem solved.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:39 AM   #3820
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Default cap

you want to solder the cap pak directly to the posts on the esc ... the closer the pak is to the esc the better it works i was told.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkl View Post
I looked at your previous posts but didn't find a photo. Would you post a photo of how you installed your cap pack? I am no electrical engineer and am a little lost. I see the Castle diagrams of how their caps are installed, but am unsure of the HW version. Can the wires of the caps be soldered to the posts of an RX8, or to the battery connector joint?
Thanks for the help.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:02 AM   #3821
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KenPosney View Post
Tekno's TKR5253B servo horn is a nice improvement over their old aluminum design.
The screw for the steering linkage is now sunk flush in the arm.
The larger M3 screw for the clamp is also better but not included.
An additional second inner hole they recommend for protecting the servo.
The screw for the clamp is included. What's not included is the screw for your servo.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:07 AM   #3822
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Ditched the front and rear sway bar for outdoor med bite . Works nice ! Going to leave em off outdoors ! But going to def put back for indoor high bite..
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:10 AM   #3823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
So I just got done building this truck. This will be my first SC truck that I plan to race at my local track which is a medium sized indoor carpet track.
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?

I plan to run a Tekin RX8 gen 2 and the Tekin Pro 4HD 4600KV(This seems to be pretty common)
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels.
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?
Search for Lutz on you tube the way you build tekno shocks. When I raced indoor carpet I used slicks. Are you on "ozite" or turf? If you're on turf that's a different story.
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Old 06-13-2016, 07:24 AM   #3824
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In case you guys didn't notice it, I've created the Wiki for this thread. Similar to the old '1st page' posts, but now it appears at the top of every page.

Anyone can edit it, but just keep in mind that EVERY edit is recorded and we can see who did it. Abusing it will result in a forum ban.

My suggestion is that if you have a new item you want to post on the Wiki and aren't sure if you should, just post it in the normal part of the thread and ask. If you see a majority in agreement, post it.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:19 AM   #3825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
This is my experience as well. I just live with that slow 1/2 rebound that results. I have not been able to achieve 100% dead. An experienced 1st place racer told me how to do it but I wasn't able to get perfect dead. I'll have to ask him again or maybe we'll just build one at the track.
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