219LikesTekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
09-05-2022, 08:19 AM - Wikipost
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Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!
7.26.17 - BB In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts: TKR6106 Orange LF Springs TKR6114 Green LF Springs TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8702 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm) TKR8104 .4 bellcranks TKR8100 .4 ackerman TKR5545B HRC Hubs You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite) What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit? None are required but we recommend the following: TKR5161 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “A” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5163 – V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace “C” block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes. TKR5545B – HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit. TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set TiNi Shock Shafts -TKR6004T (front) -TKR6017T (rear) What spare parts should I keep on hand? TKR5020 – Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear) TKR5516 – Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 – Rear Suspension Arms TKR5542 – Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles TKR6009 – Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks) Tips and Tricks List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc. Use steering stops/limiter washers... more info here. Setup Sheets: Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.   Hinge Pin Insert Chart:  Warranty Policy: Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered! Piston Drills: Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following: GMK Supply Piston Drill Set 16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.   
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06-09-2016, 09:25 PM
#3781
Tech Adept
http://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/pre-cut-flo-tek-fusion-clear-body/
Similar to raptor body but fixes the louver problem mentioned. I find the flotek bodies to be fairly durable especially if your use body washers.
06-09-2016, 09:29 PM
#3782
Pick up some shoe goo. And some heavy duty drywall joint tape, tape the areas after you've painted that are cracking and stressing. Then smear shoe goo over the tape creating a flexible reinforcement. If you do this correctly, you might not paint another body for a few months
06-09-2016, 11:02 PM
#3783
So I just got done building this truck. This will be my first SC truck that I plan to race at my local track which is a medium sized indoor carpet track.
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
I plan to run a Tekin RX8 gen 2 and the Tekin Pro 4HD 4600KV(This seems to be pretty common)
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels.
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
I plan to run a Tekin RX8 gen 2 and the Tekin Pro 4HD 4600KV(This seems to be pretty common)
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels.
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?
06-10-2016, 12:03 AM
#3784
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.
VTR (variable Trace Ratio)
It is like the effect felt by exponetial, but without the curve.
The point at which you set the VTR to the point it passes that setting will remain linear.
To further simplify this, here is a pic to look at>
You will also notice the "trigger point" number to the left of the VTR graph. This can be moved forward or backwards of where it's shown in this pic. This will determine how long the linear travel is effected until it changes to the next linear angle to suit your feel preference. This is a good thing especially considering some like to run their vehicle with a 70/30 throttle to brake setting, vs the standard 50/50 pull-push effect.
But I believe it's nothing more than a crude form of PWM (pulse width modulation) (a resolution/throttle steps decrease the more punch used), making each step of the throttle a more powerful/longer pulse, but possibly as you said.... Only to a certain throttle point before defaulting back to standard resolution?
This would certainly explain why it's so hard on your electronics if I'm right about that, as there would be a more constant surge demand and then a sudden drop off which might cause more felt IR from a pack.
In saying that, hobbywing is now touting it's new XR8/XR10 "PWM overall adjust-ability" features in regards to their new shielded hall sensor XERUN motors built to run specifically in conjunction with these latest ESCs.
But in my opinion this is nothing really new, but a more refined version from the standard "Punch". What makes their ESC's different seems to be the ability to run in hybrid mode, vs full time sensor mode more than anything.
Again... if I am right about this, then its not really any different that what a high end radio can offer with VTR or full curve abilities seen with the 4PX and M12S for example.
06-10-2016, 12:11 AM
#3785
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.
In stock classes people try to heat up their lipos by doing a 40A discharge/charge cycle to actually lower the IR and get more punch. Kind of opposite of what you're saying there, isn't it?
06-10-2016, 01:54 AM
#3786
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany near famous clay track of RCRT Duisburg
Posts: 63
Carpet Tire
So I just got done building this truck. This will be my first SC truck that I plan to race at my local track which is a medium sized indoor carpet track.
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
Fill the shock, push the shaft all in, put the bladder on top and press it down with a nutdriver, wipe exessive oil away and screw down cap.
[/QUOTE]
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels. [/QUOTE] Perfect!
[/QUOTE]
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?[/QUOTE]
Schumacher Minipin yellow, front tires: cut away 1-2 lines of pins at the outside.
06-10-2016, 02:02 AM
#3787
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Germany near famous clay track of RCRT Duisburg
Posts: 63
Body reinforcement
Pick up some shoe goo. And some heavy duty drywall joint tape, tape the areas after you've painted that are cracking and stressing. Then smear shoe goo over the tape creating a flexible reinforcement. If you do this correctly, you might not paint another body for a few months
PS: the Hudy Stuff is thinner and the tube is larger...
06-10-2016, 03:30 AM
#3788
All Sct racers need to show up on 3s @ the track to force the hand ..
06-10-2016, 04:32 AM
#3789
Tech Initiate
I was going through a ton of bodies with my 2 kids bashing.
Pick a more rounded body style. Sharp corners create cracks.
T-bone racing makes a good set of bumpers. http://tboneracing.net/
Last time I checked there is a used pair on ebay.
I used to make my own but it took too much time.
http://www.armordillorc.com/
Some things that helped.
Don't cut out the tail to clear the factory bumper.
The front cowl support also helped out greatly.
Pick a more rounded body style. Sharp corners create cracks.
T-bone racing makes a good set of bumpers. http://tboneracing.net/
Last time I checked there is a used pair on ebay.
I used to make my own but it took too much time.
http://www.armordillorc.com/
Some things that helped.
Don't cut out the tail to clear the factory bumper.
The front cowl support also helped out greatly.
06-10-2016, 07:41 AM
#3790
Tech Initiate
Yes!
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place
06-10-2016, 09:30 AM
#3792
Yes!
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.
06-10-2016, 01:40 PM
#3793
The extra caps help, but are mainly to help ripple current, which is generated mainly on brake and off throttle. There is very little in the way that such low capacity caps can do for actual punch, though of course in theory they help a little in that regard as well. All of this means you beat up the battery less with less stress on the battery, so over time they last longer and everything else runs cooler too since your external caps are sharing in the load of the internal or "on the board" caps (such as found with the HW and Tekin ESCs). I find the Tekin RX8's don't NEED an extra cap bank, but doing so can let them use not as good batteries without getting hot, or can drop temps for longer runs, and is of course nicer to your batteries.
As for batteries, IR is best when warmer and at higher voltage, which is why a larger pack is almost always much better than a higher C pack, as it maintains voltage longer, keeping both IR (C) and temps low while voltage up. This also translates into a cooler running ESC as it needs less amps to put out the same wattage (this is why 4s or 3s systems run cooler than 2s systems that are providing similar amounts of power). This is why I always suggest 7000 or larger batteries as a result for 2s 4wd SC, even if you're only running 5 minutes and only using 2000-3000mah of that pack depending on track and trigger finger.
As for batteries, IR is best when warmer and at higher voltage, which is why a larger pack is almost always much better than a higher C pack, as it maintains voltage longer, keeping both IR (C) and temps low while voltage up. This also translates into a cooler running ESC as it needs less amps to put out the same wattage (this is why 4s or 3s systems run cooler than 2s systems that are providing similar amounts of power). This is why I always suggest 7000 or larger batteries as a result for 2s 4wd SC, even if you're only running 5 minutes and only using 2000-3000mah of that pack depending on track and trigger finger.
06-11-2016, 04:05 AM
#3795
Do you mean fore/aft play? If so there should be some allowance for movement to allow for chassis flex. When running it doesn't really make any noise