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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 06-09-2016, 09:25 PM   #3781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twistedneck View Post
I agree.. and stay away from the raptor body. Its got the louvers right in the area where you need to place the body pins.
I like the proline fusion body the best.

http://www.prolineracing.com/bodies/pre-cut-flo-tek-fusion-clear-body/

Similar to raptor body but fixes the louver problem mentioned. I find the flotek bodies to be fairly durable especially if your use body washers.
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Old 06-09-2016, 09:29 PM   #3782
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Pick up some shoe goo. And some heavy duty drywall joint tape, tape the areas after you've painted that are cracking and stressing. Then smear shoe goo over the tape creating a flexible reinforcement. If you do this correctly, you might not paint another body for a few months
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Old 06-09-2016, 11:02 PM   #3783
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So I just got done building this truck. This will be my first SC truck that I plan to race at my local track which is a medium sized indoor carpet track.
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?

I plan to run a Tekin RX8 gen 2 and the Tekin Pro 4HD 4600KV(This seems to be pretty common)
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels.
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:03 AM   #3784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
My tekin RX8 gen2 (and perhaps the HW XR8) have caps on the battery leads, from my understanding. Are you still adding caps if running those esc's?
Yes!
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by qstorm777 View Post
What is VTR? I haven't seen those acronyms.
VTR (variable Trace Ratio)
It is like the effect felt by exponetial, but without the curve.
The point at which you set the VTR to the point it passes that setting will remain linear.
To further simplify this, here is a pic to look at>


You will also notice the "trigger point" number to the left of the VTR graph. This can be moved forward or backwards of where it's shown in this pic. This will determine how long the linear travel is effected until it changes to the next linear angle to suit your feel preference. This is a good thing especially considering some like to run their vehicle with a 70/30 throttle to brake setting, vs the standard 50/50 pull-push effect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigbearfin View Post
So VTR just shifts the point where throttle channel slope gets steeper.
How does punch work? is it only working when throttle channel gets over some percentage?
I am not completely sure what the method is to be honest.
But I believe it's nothing more than a crude form of PWM (pulse width modulation) (a resolution/throttle steps decrease the more punch used), making each step of the throttle a more powerful/longer pulse, but possibly as you said.... Only to a certain throttle point before defaulting back to standard resolution?
This would certainly explain why it's so hard on your electronics if I'm right about that, as there would be a more constant surge demand and then a sudden drop off which might cause more felt IR from a pack.
In saying that, hobbywing is now touting it's new XR8/XR10 "PWM overall adjust-ability" features in regards to their new shielded hall sensor XERUN motors built to run specifically in conjunction with these latest ESCs.
But in my opinion this is nothing really new, but a more refined version from the standard "Punch". What makes their ESC's different seems to be the ability to run in hybrid mode, vs full time sensor mode more than anything.
Again... if I am right about this, then its not really any different that what a high end radio can offer with VTR or full curve abilities seen with the 4PX and M12S for example.
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Old 06-10-2016, 12:11 AM   #3785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.

In stock classes people try to heat up their lipos by doing a 40A discharge/charge cycle to actually lower the IR and get more punch. Kind of opposite of what you're saying there, isn't it?
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:54 AM   #3786
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Default Carpet Tire

Quote:
Originally Posted by liftedcj7on44s View Post
So I just got done building this truck. This will be my first SC truck that I plan to race at my local track which is a medium sized indoor carpet track.
I do have a few questions regarding the truck itself.
During the shock build I was trying to set the shocks up for 0 rebound using the traditional bladders. Pushing the shock shaft all the way in, screwing in the body while bleeding the air out I always get rebound, Almost half the shafts worth of rebound. Is this normal?
Change my build to:
Fill the shock, push the shaft all in, put the bladder on top and press it down with a nutdriver, wipe exessive oil away and screw down cap.
[/QUOTE]
Looking at wheels it looks Like I will go with the DE racing Speedline Plus wheels. [/QUOTE] Perfect!
[/QUOTE]
Was looking for advice on the best tire to run with those wheels for carpet?[/QUOTE]
Schumacher Minipin yellow, front tires: cut away 1-2 lines of pins at the outside.
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Old 06-10-2016, 02:02 AM   #3787
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rregl0612 View Post
Pick up some shoe goo. And some heavy duty drywall joint tape, tape the areas after you've painted that are cracking and stressing. Then smear shoe goo over the tape creating a flexible reinforcement. If you do this correctly, you might not paint another body for a few months
Thats right, this helped me a lot during my first season... and saved about 3 bodys PS: the Hudy Stuff is thinner and the tube is larger...
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Old 06-10-2016, 03:30 AM   #3788
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All Sct racers need to show up on 3s @ the track to force the hand ..
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Old 06-10-2016, 04:32 AM   #3789
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I was going through a ton of bodies with my 2 kids bashing.

Pick a more rounded body style. Sharp corners create cracks.
T-bone racing makes a good set of bumpers. http://tboneracing.net/
Last time I checked there is a used pair on ebay.

I used to make my own but it took too much time.
http://www.armordillorc.com/
Some things that helped.
Don't cut out the tail to clear the factory bumper.
The front cowl support also helped out greatly.
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:41 AM   #3790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh L View Post
Yes!
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place
Diode in series with the esc + lead I assume?
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:27 AM   #3791
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Anyone got some Pics or Video on how to do this please?
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Old 06-10-2016, 09:30 AM   #3792
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Quote:
Yes!
This is due to the fact we are running 1/10 electronics with an inefficient 2S pack on a heavy 1/8 scale chassis in all reality.
Jeremy McGuigan ran a cap pack as suggested on top of the existing ESC caps that are already there. His findings was a 20 degree heat drop on his battery with a noticeable drop on his ESC and motor temps as well.
This is due to further lowering voltage ripple by increasing capacitance with the addition of a switching diode that eliminates voltage spiking before it ever hits the ESC.
(spiking is the effect felt from a capacitor from AC current reversal that occurs in instances of current fluctuation, such as when you suddenly draw and stop drawing from a pack in hard throttle on and off sequences.)
All in all, the less your battery has to put up with the less heat your going to generate from the pack IR. The less heat you generate on a pack, the more optimal it can continue to flow, which will likewise help retain burst power ability throughout a race as it discharges. The more a pack is discharged, the more IR is realized. Nothing you can do will help a batteries IR ratings through a run, BUT... you can buffer the initial surging by adding more caps and help nominal flow through the addition of a switching diode. Caps alone are good, but much better with the diode in place.
Anyone got Pics or Video on how to do this ? I run a Tekin Rx8.
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Old 06-10-2016, 01:40 PM   #3793
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The extra caps help, but are mainly to help ripple current, which is generated mainly on brake and off throttle. There is very little in the way that such low capacity caps can do for actual punch, though of course in theory they help a little in that regard as well. All of this means you beat up the battery less with less stress on the battery, so over time they last longer and everything else runs cooler too since your external caps are sharing in the load of the internal or "on the board" caps (such as found with the HW and Tekin ESCs). I find the Tekin RX8's don't NEED an extra cap bank, but doing so can let them use not as good batteries without getting hot, or can drop temps for longer runs, and is of course nicer to your batteries.

As for batteries, IR is best when warmer and at higher voltage, which is why a larger pack is almost always much better than a higher C pack, as it maintains voltage longer, keeping both IR (C) and temps low while voltage up. This also translates into a cooler running ESC as it needs less amps to put out the same wattage (this is why 4s or 3s systems run cooler than 2s systems that are providing similar amounts of power). This is why I always suggest 7000 or larger batteries as a result for 2s 4wd SC, even if you're only running 5 minutes and only using 2000-3000mah of that pack depending on track and trigger finger.
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:36 PM   #3794
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I'm in the process of putting my truck back together and noticed that there is a bit of play in the center driveshaft. Has anyone tried putting o-rings in the outdrives to reduce this a bit?
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Old 06-11-2016, 04:05 AM   #3795
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Do you mean fore/aft play? If so there should be some allowance for movement to allow for chassis flex. When running it doesn't really make any noise
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