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R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: Official Tekno RC SCT410.3 Thread
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Last edit by: Bob Barry
Welcome to the SCT410.3 Wiki!

7.26.17 - BB
In order to run the recommended team setup, you need the following optional parts:
TKR6106 Orange LF Springs
TKR6114 Green LF Springs
TKR6018 composite shock caps (built to emulsion) OR TKR8072 Aluminum Emulsion Shock caps
TKR8027 Shock Stand Offs
TKR6051 8x1.3 pistons(drilled to 1.4mm)
TKR8104 .4 bellcranks
TKR8100 .4 ackerman
TKR5545B HRC Hubs
You also need the Aluminum C Block (others can stay composite)

What option parts should I consider buying with a new kit?
None are required but we recommend the following:

TKR5161 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace A block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5163 V2 Adjustable Hinge Pin Brace C block, 7075 CNC, EB/NB/ET/NT/SCT) - Helps to improve durability on hard crashes.

TKR5545B HRC Rear Hubs (L/R, CV or uni, SCT.3/SL) - Improves stability of the rear on mid to corner exit. Allows harder acceleration on corner exit.

TKR6146 - CNC Delrin Shock Cartridge Set

TiNi Shock Shafts
-TKR6004T (front)
-TKR6017T (rear)


What spare parts should I keep on hand?
TKR5020 Hinge Pins (inner, front/rear)
TKR5516 Front Suspension Arms and TKR5515 Rear Suspension Arms
TKR5542 Spindle Carriers - TKR5541B Spindles
TKR6009 Shock O-Ring and Bladder Set (for 2 shocks)

Tips and Tricks

List of Vehicle Setup Adjustments and Build Tips can be found here. There are several videos and articles detailing the building of shocks, diffs, camber links, etc.

Setup Sheets:
Setup sheets for all Tekno RC vehicles can be found here. Please be sure to try our recommended setup. It works very well on most tracks.

Warranty Policy:
Tekno RC is the only company in the industry that will give 50% off of parts if returned to them using the General Warranty return policy found on their website. The parts can be lightly used or completely abused, as long as the part is still being produced it's covered!

Piston Drills:
Some of our setups recommend using pistons that are enlarged. For instance 4x1.9 or 3x2.0. To drill the pistons we recommend the following:
GMK Supply Piston Drill Set
16PC Metric Bit Set Metric Sizes 2.00 to 3.00 MM.

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Old 05-31-2016, 08:12 PM   #3736
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Even with the piston all the way in, I still get a little rebound, but very slowly. Is there any way to build a totally dead shock?

I didn't have any diff leak issues. Don't under or over torque the screws. It can warp the case. You can sand the case with 400 grit over glass to get a machine surface but I don't think it needs it.
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:29 PM   #3737
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What is the best servo for 410.3
I have the savox 1256...no complaints
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Old 05-31-2016, 08:31 PM   #3738
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I have the savox 1256...no complaints
Same here
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:52 AM   #3739
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Savox 1256 for me as well, I love this servo, had one in my SC10 4x4 for years and it never gave me any issues. But I use the Castle Creations 10 amp BEC as these servos are notorious for brown out issues without one, and also you can bump up the voltage to get a bit more speed and torque.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:28 AM   #3740
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I personally ran a savox 1283sg in my last one. But before the servo shuffle, I ran a radiopost rp5005s in it. (which is now in my truggy)

I believe in overkill, and since I got rid of the truck with the 1283, I don't have anything slower than .07 seconds, or less than 420oz of tq.
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Old 06-01-2016, 11:16 AM   #3741
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRC123 View Post
Even with the piston all the way in, I still get a little rebound, but very slowly. Is there any way to build a totally dead shock?

I didn't have any diff leak issues. Don't under or over torque the screws. It can warp the case. You can sand the case with 400 grit over glass to get a machine surface but I don't think it needs it.
You can set them up emulsion, but your rebuild schedule will increase, and that's alot of oil.
The bladder shock is normal to have some rebound it's in the design. Take too much out and it will actually suck the bladder in. Build it with about a 1/4 inch. Make em even and never look back
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Old 06-01-2016, 06:17 PM   #3742
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Originally Posted by rregl0612 View Post
You can set them up emulsion, but your rebuild schedule will increase, and that's alot of oil.
The bladder shock is normal to have some rebound it's in the design. Take too much out and it will actually suck the bladder in. Build it with about a 1/4 inch. Make em even and never look back
Thanks man. Will do!
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Old 06-03-2016, 12:52 AM   #3743
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thanks for servo suggestions guys.another que for lipo..

what kind of lipo should i use?
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:28 AM   #3744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rd4 View Post
thanks for servo suggestions guys.another que for lipo..

what kind of lipo should i use?
I just purchased some SPC 3s 5000mah Lipo's about a month ago. So far they seem pretty good as far charge & power. However on 2 packs the case has started to crack near the charge lead on the short side for some reason. . I cA it back but ...SPC folks are Super nice people to deal with .. I might give them a call ...

Last edited by SerpJimmy; 06-03-2016 at 05:53 AM.
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:29 AM   #3745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4rd4 View Post
thanks for servo suggestions guys.another que for lipo..

what kind of lipo should i use?
If you want to race, you're basically limited to 2S. (3S would probably be better, but is usually not race legal anywhere, so not an option for most people, including myself).

For a 2S on such a heavy vehicle like a Short Course Truck, especially if you use a powerful motor, you should go for a good quality, high capacity (7000+) lipo with at least a decent (preferably high) C-Rating. So don't got (too) cheap there.
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Old 06-03-2016, 05:39 AM   #3746
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Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
If you want to race, you're basically limited to 2S. (3S would probably be better, but is usually not race legal anywhere, so not an option for most people, including myself).

For a 2S on such a heavy vehicle like a Short Course Truck, especially if you use a powerful motor, you should go for a good quality, high capacity (7000+) lipo with at least a decent (preferably high) C-Rating. So don't got (too) cheap there.
Agree w DirkW, I use 2S 5000 for 5 min qualifying only. For 7min mains, it's 2S 8000 that allows for a lot of warm up laps and serious crashing and catching back up...
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Old 06-03-2016, 08:16 AM   #3747
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For battery, I suggest no less than 7000mah. Not because a 5000 can't make 5 or 6 minutes, but because you don't want to use more than 80% of a pack, ever. Doing so will stress the pack out a lot more and shorten its life, as well as give you that feeling of voltage sag for less punch and speed near the end.

For servos, I usually suggest 250+ oz/in of torque for these things, though about 200 will work fine in most cases. Mine is a bit over 350 oz/in though, because just like with batteries, if you don't run it at the limit, things just last longer.
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:51 AM   #3748
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I've had my truck to the track around 8 times and I'm having an issue with the rear end....it seems like its all over the place. It fishtails out of the turns. What do I tweak first?
Springs are pink/pink, dif oil is 7-5-3. Track is a large outdoor dirt with dust
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:58 PM   #3749
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weedsnager View Post
I've had my truck to the track around 8 times and I'm having an issue with the rear end....it seems like its all over the place. It fishtails out of the turns. What do I tweak first?
Springs are pink/pink, dif oil is 7-5-3. Track is a large outdoor dirt with dust
Try more rear toe. Thinner rear sway bar. Longer rear camber links and less antisquat. I've been using proline blockades and they really do well on a hard dusty track.
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:12 PM   #3750
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for turns try moving rear camber link to 1.C lighten up or remove rear sway bar . diff 10r,15c & 15f . Ride height 23r &24f. This works pretty good outdoors . Im still working on it though..
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